Outlaw's attempt to turn thisn pile of trash into a blaster
- Thread starter Outlawed Genetics
- Start date
if they sell some aftermarket parts they will probably know or they could look it up since they have more resources.
yfz450 rear shock, and warrior steering stem ordered today, i will be ordering the swingarm (+4) within the next day.
do i need any bearings, seals , or bushings replaced when replacing the stearing stem? also since its a blaster frame and warrior stem if i do would i look for them under warrior parts or blaster parts?
do i need any bearings, seals , or bushings replaced when replacing the stearing stem? also since its a blaster frame and warrior stem if i do would i look for them under warrior parts or blaster parts?
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waiting on parts in the mail sucks but by the time this things done pretty much everyting will be new. seems every day that i wait my buddy finds 2 other things that need replaced lol
good news is frame is done and he's also painting engine parts. got some pics also
feel free to have a look at my flickr gallery of all the blaster pics start to finish (if i finish lol)
good news is frame is done and he's also painting engine parts. got some pics also
feel free to have a look at my flickr gallery of all the blaster pics start to finish (if i finish lol)
i showed it to a couple people nobody had any ideas so i just ordered some vforce3's and a sweet bumper. more pics coming soon.
WARRIOR STEM IS NOT A DIRECT BOLT ON i've seen many recomend it to add a couple inches to the bars saying its a direct bolt on. so i bought one and what a surprise, me and a buddy ended up spending 2hrs or more last night with the grinder to make it work. if thats a direct bolt up i'd hate to see something that requires "slight modification" lol now im dreading the day when the yfz450 shock shows up and is ready to put on.
i cant help you with the yfz shock. i have seen teh writeups on the 400ex shock and it looks super easy. you just have to make a small shim for the bottom of the shock and trip your airbox for the top to fit right and youre done.
i've heard 2 stories on the yfz shock
1 direct bolt on but needs to be on a +4 swinger
2 holes in bottom mounts need redrilled and needs a +4 swinger
praying for option 1 lol my buddy's neighbors probably hate us. running bench grinder and some other sort of hand held grinder from 1-3am lol
the yfz shock and a couple little things line new fuel and vent lines and a endcap for the swinger is all im waiting for before me and buddy put it back togather and hopefully get a test run. was hoping to get 240 kit and gforce axle but he pointed out how bad my tires are and how much of a pain it is to take tires off the rim and put tires on the rim so within 2 days i should be ordering some douglas rims and kenda tires front and back. ill be keeping the stock rims to put a set of street tires on when i get the cash for them.
1 direct bolt on but needs to be on a +4 swinger
2 holes in bottom mounts need redrilled and needs a +4 swinger
praying for option 1 lol my buddy's neighbors probably hate us. running bench grinder and some other sort of hand held grinder from 1-3am lol
the yfz shock and a couple little things line new fuel and vent lines and a endcap for the swinger is all im waiting for before me and buddy put it back togather and hopefully get a test run. was hoping to get 240 kit and gforce axle but he pointed out how bad my tires are and how much of a pain it is to take tires off the rim and put tires on the rim so within 2 days i should be ordering some douglas rims and kenda tires front and back. ill be keeping the stock rims to put a set of street tires on when i get the cash for them.
I have YFZ fronts bolted up right now and I used to have the rear one as well. The front bolt up to the stock arms with some grinding on the lower shock mount. The rear has to be cut as short as possible on the bottom and the top will need a tapered bolt.
It doesn't matter if you have a stock swingarm or a +10 the shock mount is in the same spot.
pic of bottom mount grinding
It doesn't matter if you have a stock swingarm or a +10 the shock mount is in the same spot.
pic of bottom mount grinding
I have YFZ fronts bolted up right now and I used to have the rear one as well. The front bolt up to the stock arms with some grinding on the lower shock mount. The rear has to be cut as short as possible on the bottom and the top will need a tapered bolt.
It doesn't matter if you have a stock swingarm or a +10 the shock mount is in the same spot.
pic of bottom mount grinding
any chance you have a pic of where you grinded in the rear? i may get the fronts later now that i see your pic. the rear yfz shock should be here mid next week.
i got vforce3 delta's on the way. that pic of the vforce2's back farther in the thread was us trying to figure out what reed cage i had on already. bought some vito's carbon fiber reads for the stock cage but they wouldnt fit thats how i found out i didnt have a stock cage. got sick of trying to figure it out and said the hell with it and bought the vf3 deltas
You know peeps will say what they want but the YFZ fronts are a good upgrade from stock when they are adjusted right.
The rear (for me) sucked and was too stiff and gave me too high of a rear ride height for my taste.
Since you are already getting it I'll help out.
Here's a pic of the cutting I did for the rear. It's a no brainer and a hacksaw or jig saw will take care of it fast. After you cut it drill your holes for your lower mount bolt to go through. Make sure you select a drill bit that is EXACTLY the same size as your shock bolt.
my main reasoning for getting it was that im a big buy 6' 275lb with the stock shock with me on it sat very low. thanks tons for the pics. was the your sig pic taken with the yfz shocks the whole way around? i always loved the stance of it in that pic and wondered about that.
You know peeps will say what they want but the YFZ fronts are a good upgrade from stock when they are adjusted right.
The rear (for me) sucked and was too stiff and gave me too high of a rear ride height for my taste.
Since you are already getting it I'll help out.
Here's a pic of the cutting I did for the rear. It's a no brainer and a hacksaw or jig saw will take care of it fast. After you cut it drill your holes for your lower mount bolt to go through. Make sure you select a drill bit that is EXACTLY the same size as your shock bolt.
ahh i see now lol yours looked to sit alot higher because you took a straight on shot and i always look at my blaster on a downward angle from standing... duh i should've noticed that considering photography is my main hobby lol
do you need a special tool to push the piston back, in the caliper? to spread the rear hydrolic brakes? with new pads they arent open wide enough to fit back over the rotor.
this is word for what what my buddy thats working on it asked me to ask.
this is word for what what my buddy thats working on it asked me to ask.
thanks. credit goes to my buddy bob who did all the paint and most of the work to the blaster. he's teaching me to work on it since i've never owned an atv or knew how to work on any type of motor.
here's a pic of him with his machine. its a 81' yamaha yz250 that he bought in parts, and brought back to life. it literally came in boxes of un labled parts he says lol.
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