Not wanting to start!!

Yes I'm running too rich, which was another clue to think I wasn't getting enough gas. My last compression test was 110 which is kind of low, but i went and looked at everything and tightened everything to make sure.

when my blaster was having problems and i had tried a ton of different stuff like you, finally i took it to a shop for a diagnosis. my compression was right around the same as yours, 110 but went lower as the engine warmed up. they said i was supposed to be between 140-160 and i didnt have enough compression to stay running. i got a whole new top end bored 20 over. the blaster runs better than ever now. so theres a possibility you might need a new top end
 
when my blaster was having problems and i had tried a ton of different stuff like you, finally i took it to a shop for a diagnosis. my compression was right around the same as yours, 110 but went lower as the engine warmed up. they said i was supposed to be between 140-160 and i didnt have enough compression to stay running. i got a whole new top end bored 20 over. the blaster runs better than ever now. so theres a possibility you might need a new top end

Well I got it started today and it was idling pretty high at first then once it got warmed up it went back down, I took it around the yard a few times and when I pulled in the clutch it would start idling high again, it eventually started to sputter and backfire. Would any of that be a sign of a bad top end, or just not properly jetted?
 
mine would sputter/ backfire and then die, and it did have some issues idling because there was little compression, but it never made a difference if i pulled the clutch in or not. i think that you will need a new top end soon to get your compression back but that might not be the main, or only, issue.
 
mine would sputter/ backfire and then die, and it did have some issues idling because there was little compression, but it never made a difference if i pulled the clutch in or not. i think that you will need a new top end soon to get your compression back but that might not be the main, or only, issue.

Yeah I don't think I'm gonna mess with it or put anymore money into if I gotta get a new top end, it had a fresh top end when I bought it but who knows, thanks for the help though.
 
Well I got it started today and it was idling pretty high at first then once it got warmed up it went back down, I took it around the yard a few times and when I pulled in the clutch it would start idling high again, it eventually started to sputter and backfire. Would any of that be a sign of a bad top end, or just not properly jetted?

You did do a leak test on it after you replaced the seals right? Just to make sure ?
 
are you sure it had a fresh topend? 110 seems to be too low of compression to be recently redone. was it bored out or is it still stock?
and i think i remember reading that you still had the stock oil injection. it wouldnt hurt taking a closer look at to see if its working properly if you havent already
 
are you sure it had a fresh topend? 110 seems to be too low of compression to be recently redone. was it bored out or is it still stock?
and i think i remember reading that you still had the stock oil injection. it wouldnt hurt taking a closer look at to see if its working properly if you havent already

Well that's what the guy said and with less than 15 hours on it, he wasn't sure on the bore or anything just said the yamaha shop put a new top end in, but this has been over 7 months since I've had the bike. I did end up taking the stock oil injection off and running 25:1
 
did he have some sort of proof or recipts of the work done? if not, then i wouldnt trust it.
and i dont know if 25:1 is going to help or hurt but based on posts ive read on here, 32:1 is best... just my opinion
 
Well I got it started today and it was idling pretty high at first then once it got warmed up it went back down, I took it around the yard a few times and when I pulled in the clutch it would start idling high again, it eventually started to sputter and backfire. Would any of that be a sign of a bad top end, or just not properly jetted?

Well here's my thought, It didn't do this before you replaced the seals and to replace the seals, you had to remove stator, flywheel, clutch assembly, so i'd go over all that, again, and make sure ya didn't miss something, I know your pretty good with that stuff.

Anyhow, the first part of your answer above sounds like a lean condition like when I kick mine over and forget to turn the gas on after that last little bit in the bowl she rev's to the moon, then dies.

Now when you pull the clutch in and it rev's high sure sounds like an air leak.

The sputter and backfire sounds to me like a reed, flywheel key or coil issue.

Can you do a compression test on it? That will answer the question on the top end! If no access to a compression tester, I know autozone, napa, advance auto all have loaner tools, really need to do this!

I will not let u give up!
 
did he have some sort of proof or recipts of the work done? if not, then i wouldnt trust it.
and i dont know if 25:1 is going to help or hurt but based on posts ive read on here, 32:1 is best... just my opinion


He said he had the recipt but didn't know where it was, I believed him because he seemed like an honest person and was pretty wealthy lol. Do you think that's what's causing my problem, running too lean? But backfiring and sputtering I don't think could be happening from being lean, the high rev could be from that. I did check the plug and it was a nice mocha brown color, like it should be.
 
Is this the color on the plug I should be looking for or is this a little lean/rich?


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I can't do an actual plug chop because I don't have enough room to go through all the gears so this is what I got.
 
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It's hard to tell by the color of a plug because you are dealing with 3 different circuits in the carburetor that are all contributing to the color of the plug. You could be lean on the main and richer in the needle and depending on where most of the riding time is spend, that will change the overall color of the plug. I do a plug chop to determine my main and then keep an eye on the plug color when trailing riding to determine where I am in the needle circuit because I know I am on the needle most of the time on trails.
 
It's hard to tell by the color of a plug because you are dealing with 3 different circuits in the carburetor that are all contributing to the color of the plug. You could be lean on the main and richer in the needle and depending on where most of the riding time is spend, that will change the overall color of the plug. I do a plug chop to determine my main and then keep an eye on the plug color when trailing riding to determine where I am in the needle circuit because I know I am on the needle most of the time on trails.

I stay mainly in trails or my yard, which I usually don't get out of 3/4 th gear, so I'm mainly using the needle circuit and main mostly? I've read up on what circuits and jets are what but can't remember which is which. I know that it does rev high when I pull in the clutch no matter what, I've tried adjusting the idle screw and air screw but either seem to make a difference. Would moving the needle clip make a difference on that?
 
If you are not on the throttle then the needle will not have any effect on the idle. You are lean due to one or more of the following reasons
1. Air leak
2. improper setting of the air screw. How many turns out are you?
3. The slide being up too high. This could be hanging up, or something wrong with the cable causing it to hang up, or an issue with the carb.
 
If you are not on the throttle then the needle will not have any effect on the idle. You are lean due to one or more of the following reasons
1. Air leak
2. improper setting of the air screw. How many turns out are you?
3. The slide being up too high. This could be hanging up, or something wrong with the cable causing it to hang up, or an issue with the carb.

I know I don't have an air leak unless it's from the carb to the air filter boot, but I have it good and clamped on there.
The air screw is turned out 1 1/2 and I've made 1/8" in and out but made no difference.
The slide is almost all the way seated to the carb but a little gap on both sides, I did notices that when I barely hit the throttle it kind of bogs out and will sputter and sometimes backfire, like it's getting too much gas or air but after I hit the throttle a little more it will jump back up and the throttle is crisp but the rpms seem a little high, if this helps any?
 
I stay mainly in trails or my yard, which I usually don't get out of 3/4 th gear, so I'm mainly using the needle circuit and main mostly? I've read up on what circuits and jets are what but can't remember which is which. I know that it does rev high when I pull in the clutch no matter what, I've tried adjusting the idle screw and air screw but either seem to make a difference. Would moving the needle clip make a difference on that?

Here is a guide for ya bro. I sure hope ya get it fixed!

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