I'm new to the forum and i was doing a short test drive the other day after i fixed my clutch and all of a sudden the blaster just cut off. I kicked it over and over and couldn't get it to start. Got it home and it had no spark. So changed the plug still nothing. Put a test light(i don't have a multi meter) to the orange wire to the coil and nothing. I then pulled the cover for the stator and saw it wasn't turning like it was supposed to come to find out the nut holding it on was loose. I tightened it up and still nothing. I began checking the wires from the stator for power the yellow/red for the lights was good but the white/red (i assumed the hot for the ignition) but nothing. I looked at the wiring diagrams in the manual but wanted clarification on which wires were what coming from the stator. The second thing is do you need some kind of puller to take the rotor for the stator its on pretty good and I didn't want to be to violent with it and break something.
No spark
- Thread starter killrmack
- Start date
here's sumthin i copied from a previous post, i forget who wrote this or i'd give him some props...................
Damn, man. I know how that feels. Electrical problems suck. Your intermittent spark problem is quite likely due to a bad ignition coil. Many times, the high-tension lead (heavy wire that goes from the coil to the spark plug) develops an internal break. Coils can also develop an internal short or open circuit. Either of these faults will result in an intermittent spark at the plug. The coil only fires when the bad connection happens to be made. Which isn't very often, as I'm sure your exhausted right leg can attest.
Do this: Turn the keyed ignition switch (if used) and handlebar switches 'ON'. Unhook the spark plug wire from the plug and remove the spark plug from the engine. Next, find that one-and-only orange wire that attaches to the coil. Unplug it, and go get your 12V test light. (You can buy one for about $ 15.00 at the local auto parts store, or Sears, or....).
Stab the plug on the orange coil wire with the pointed end of your test light. Ground the other end of the test light (with the wire/clamp) out against the engine. Be sure you have a SECURE connection. Now, kick the engine over and watch the test light. The bulb in the test light should blink once for every revolution the engine makes. In other words, the light should flash 'in sync' with the rotations of the crankshaft. This test will tell you whether or not you're getting the required 12 volt 'signal' from the CDI box to the coil every time the piston reaches TDC. If the light blinks steadily, replace your coil. It is defective. The CDI box is sending its 12V pulse to the coil, as it should, but the coil is unable to properly transform it.
Nothing, or an inconsistent blink of the test light, indicates that your ignition coil is not recieving its proper trigger pulse from the other components of the bike's ignition system. Time to pull out the ohm meter and do some resistance checks on the exciter and trigger coils. I'd also test the ignition coil for good measure, just to be sure that it is indeed still good. If these coils test OK (see a Clymer manual for the resistence specs), all connections are clean/tight, and you can't find any bare wires that are accidentally touching the frame, replace your CDI box. It can be ruled faulty if everything else in the ignition system tests good.
Damn, man. I know how that feels. Electrical problems suck. Your intermittent spark problem is quite likely due to a bad ignition coil. Many times, the high-tension lead (heavy wire that goes from the coil to the spark plug) develops an internal break. Coils can also develop an internal short or open circuit. Either of these faults will result in an intermittent spark at the plug. The coil only fires when the bad connection happens to be made. Which isn't very often, as I'm sure your exhausted right leg can attest.
Do this: Turn the keyed ignition switch (if used) and handlebar switches 'ON'. Unhook the spark plug wire from the plug and remove the spark plug from the engine. Next, find that one-and-only orange wire that attaches to the coil. Unplug it, and go get your 12V test light. (You can buy one for about $ 15.00 at the local auto parts store, or Sears, or....).
Stab the plug on the orange coil wire with the pointed end of your test light. Ground the other end of the test light (with the wire/clamp) out against the engine. Be sure you have a SECURE connection. Now, kick the engine over and watch the test light. The bulb in the test light should blink once for every revolution the engine makes. In other words, the light should flash 'in sync' with the rotations of the crankshaft. This test will tell you whether or not you're getting the required 12 volt 'signal' from the CDI box to the coil every time the piston reaches TDC. If the light blinks steadily, replace your coil. It is defective. The CDI box is sending its 12V pulse to the coil, as it should, but the coil is unable to properly transform it.
Nothing, or an inconsistent blink of the test light, indicates that your ignition coil is not recieving its proper trigger pulse from the other components of the bike's ignition system. Time to pull out the ohm meter and do some resistance checks on the exciter and trigger coils. I'd also test the ignition coil for good measure, just to be sure that it is indeed still good. If these coils test OK (see a Clymer manual for the resistence specs), all connections are clean/tight, and you can't find any bare wires that are accidentally touching the frame, replace your CDI box. It can be ruled faulty if everything else in the ignition system tests good.
I second the ignition coil. Easy fix and common problem.
Mine had an internal short and it would continuously spark (not with timing)
Mine had an internal short and it would continuously spark (not with timing)
If you kick the starter, and you have the positive lead on the ignition coil orange wire, if the stator is functional you will register voltage. Up to 12v on a good hard kick.
If you get NO voltage its most likely the CDI unit. LOW voltage, its the stator. If you have STRONG voltage, and no spark its most likely your coil.
Ive got lots of experience troubleshooting Blaster electrical gremlins. I got my trial by fire, my blaster wouldnt start, no spark when I first bought it. I tested EVERYTHING.
Ended up being my stator.
Test voltage at orange wire with a kick. See what you get.
If you get NO voltage its most likely the CDI unit. LOW voltage, its the stator. If you have STRONG voltage, and no spark its most likely your coil.
Ive got lots of experience troubleshooting Blaster electrical gremlins. I got my trial by fire, my blaster wouldnt start, no spark when I first bought it. I tested EVERYTHING.
Ended up being my stator.
Test voltage at orange wire with a kick. See what you get.
there is a guy that just posted 2 used coils for sale in the for sale secton for 15 bucks shipped... for that price i would scoop them up and get to ridin!!
ALWAYS check here first lol, most guys are looking to help fellow blasty owners out not make a mint on our parts.
I have 2 ignition coils. One has a bad primary side. The other has a bad secondary side.
This is according to the manual.
Both of them function perfectly.
Just sayin, you might find yourself replacing your coil and having an issue. So let us know what happens.
Yeah dude. 10-12v is fine.
If youre getting that strong of a power burst to the orange wire when you kick it, Im pretty satisfied your stator is good and your issue probably IS your ignition coil. If it isnt the ignition coil, then its prolly the CDI (in the manual it says to test everything else, and if nothing else is the culprit, its the CDI)
Per the manual, did you test your key switch and the ignition kill switch on the left side handlebar?
If youre getting that strong of a power burst to the orange wire when you kick it, Im pretty satisfied your stator is good and your issue probably IS your ignition coil. If it isnt the ignition coil, then its prolly the CDI (in the manual it says to test everything else, and if nothing else is the culprit, its the CDI)
Per the manual, did you test your key switch and the ignition kill switch on the left side handlebar?
You should be testing resistance not voltage.
Instructions and proper readings are in the manual. Section 7.7-7.12. I'll email it to you if you need it.
Brent
