newb with questions

joel bowman

New Member
Dec 17, 2015
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Just bought a 2006 blaster s.e. from a flat track racer in michigan, got a hell of a deal on the bike but i have some questions about it. First off I've owned a 99 blaster before but it was mostly stock and simple bit this bike has had a lot of work which is why i am so confused, mods are as follows: vitos 240 bbk, vitos 3mm stroker with spacers, wiseco 72mm forged piston, la sleeve, extensive porting of cylinder, polaris 400 32mm carb jetted perfectly per plug chop, uni filter, no airbox lid, full pro circuit exhaust, unknown if head was milled but i tested compression at 166 lbs cold.. so with that being said on to my questions...
1.) Do i need av fuel or no? Been running shell v power ethnl free 93 oct but i dont know how pre detonation sounds
2.) My mid range power is incredible but it doesnt have the lightswitch effect higher up like my 99 did, is that normal, and what can i do for more power in the higher rpms..sprockets are stock 14 40
3.) How reliable is this set up assuming i maintain flawlessly and dont beat on it 20-30 hours of trail and yard riding a year, and previous owner gave me paperwork to confirm fresh rebuild top and bottom end


Any help is greatly appreciated and btw i dragged witha 400ex last weekend and he only beat me by a half a bike length if that lol it felt good
 
Hard to say depending on how well they assembled the engine...but it should last a good amount of time as long as it's leak free and jetted right . Stock gearing is 13 /40 . That pro circuit pipe is a mid range pipe . Try to find a right bend pipe for more top end or even a Toomey .
 
Hard to say depending on how well they assembled the engine...but it should last a good amount of time as long as it's leak free and jetted right . Stock gearing is 13 /40 . That pro circuit pipe is a mid range pipe . Try to find a right bend pipe for more top end or even a Toomey .


The toomey is not a right bend pipe is it? Also if it was your rig would yourun av or no?
 
The toomey is not a right bend pipe is it? Also if it was your rig would yourun av or no?

toomey is left bend as a stock and your pc pipe is.

no av gas..... in any 2 stroke, it's not formulatted for what our 2 strokes do, it's formulatted for low rpm, high altitude cruising.
93 octane pump gas is perfect for that compression.
 
toomey is left bend as a stock and your pc pipe is.

no av gas..... in any 2 stroke, it's not formulatted for what our 2 strokes do, it's formulatted for low rpm, high altitude cruising.
93 octane pump gas is perfect for that compression.


Ok great and does the 10% ethanol of pump gas create any concern in a setup like this? So your saying the mid range pro circuit pipe is the culprit of what im feeling? It makes sense because my 99 had a rightbend pipe
 
my right bend w/ 34mm carb acts just like your saying the PC does for you now....no real hard hit as my toomey/stock carb bike has.
I say it's a by product of larger carbs and rich jetting.

ethanol......no worries.


without knowing if the head was properly rechambered for that compression, versus just cut down, I'd be checking the plug after some hard plug chop runs for signs of detonation, if you don't know what to listen for.
 
my right bend w/ 34mm carb acts just like your saying the PC does for you now....no real hard hit as my toomey/stock carb bike has.
I say it's a by product of larger carbs and rich jetting.

ethanol......no worries.


without knowing if the head was properly rechambered for that compression, versus just cut down, I'd be checking the plug after some hard plug chop runs for signs of detonation, if you don't know what to listen for.


What is a sign of detonation when doing a plug chop or looking at it afterwards? Ive done 2 chops so far and both got a nice darker cardboard color on the electrode but i did notice some black on the threads
 
What is a sign of detonation when doing a plug chop or looking at it afterwards?

taken from here: http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticles/reading-spark-plugs.html

Detonation shows up on the plugs as spotting on the porcelain. There are two different types of spotting seen. One type appears as just black spots and the other appears as little bright spots like diamonds. The black spots (look like pepper sprinkled on the plug) indicate a little too much heat on the plug which causes detonation by having the heated plug fire off the mixture prior to the spark firing. This creates two flame fronts that collide and can cause great amounts of damage. If you see black spots on the porcelain and you know the tune-up is correct then you may need a colder plug. If you are not sure then increase the carburetor jet size slightly, take out some timing, or go to a colder plug. If you hold the plug in the sun and you see what appears to be small diamonds on the porcelain then your detonation is severe enough to be blowing off the aluminum from your piston and you need to add fuel and/or take out timing now.
 
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taken from here: http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticles/reading-spark-plugs.html

Detonation shows up on the plugs as spotting on the porcelain. There are two different types of spotting seen. One type appears as just black spots and the other appears as little bright spots like diamonds. The black spots (look like pepper sprinkled on the plug) indicate a little too much heat on the plug which causes detonation by having the heated plug fire off the mixture prior to the spark firing. This creates two flame fronts that collide and can cause great amounts of damage. If you see black spots on the porcelain and you know the tune-up is correct then you may need a colder plug. If you are not sure then increase the carburetor jet size slightly, take out some timing, or go to a colder plug. If you hold the plug in the sun and you see what appears to be small diamonds on the porcelain then your detonation is severe enough to be blowing off the aluminum from your piston and you need to add fuel and/or take out timing now.


Ok.. i was just reading up on the article about detonation you posted awhile back and the sunoco fuels you mentioned are available in my area but at $8 a gal im not to keen, I'll just stick to the shell v power for now.. one more thing.. can my top end be affected by tire size? This guy sold me this bike with brand new 18" duros but if thats to small and hurting performance ill change them
 
18's = quick out of the hole, lower top end speed but gets there quick, low ground clearence, for tracks only, IMO
20's = lil slower out of the hole, more top speed, better ground clearence for trails

you could go one more tooth up on the front sprocket, or 3 higher on the rear sprocket, to compensate for 18's and gain some top speed, for a quick cheap fix, versus new tires.

for me, on trails, 20's with 13/40 gearing is the only way to roll.
 
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18's = quick out of the hole, lower top end speed but gets there quick, low ground clearence, for tracks only, IMO
20's = lil slower out of the hole, more top speed, better ground clearence for trails

you could go one more tooth up on the front sprocket, or 3 higher on the rear sprocket, to compensate for 18's and gain some top speed, for a quick cheap fix, versus new tires.

for me, on trails, 20's with 13/40 gearing is the only way to roll.
I really appreciate the insight brother merry christmas!