New Member, Need Help

Hunter OConnor

New Member
Oct 22, 2013
11
0
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34
Mt. Pleasant, PA
Ok, so this quad was given to me because the prev owner called it "A Demon." I have dealt with the trans issues, valve cover and head matching issue, and dual carb issues with a Raptor 660R and can now rebuilt the entire motor from the base gasket up and put one in time in my sleep so I thought i'd tackle this project. Its a 87-93 Blaster 200. the frame is worn off from the 8-12 place on the VIN from shifting and riding with boots. so we don't know what year it is but it doesn't have hydraulic or disc front brakes.

The Issues:
wont start without starting fluid, wont idle correctly. when its running, a slight touch of the throttle will send the RPM sky high and will stay there until you hit the kill switch for a second to bring the R's back down. pulling the choke and adjusting the air screw yields no difference in idle or running quality. carb was thoroughly (I mean that, not just cleaned... cleaned thoroughly) cleaned and soaked for 4 days. every jet was replaced (even the one in the bowl, for the choke?) and every orifice was blown out with an air compressor. no change. still needs starting fluid to start and still have same results. one reed has a slight bit of the corner missing (PICs to follow)

The Known:
NOT stock cage. I found this out after ordering 3 sets of reeds. none of the prev owners know what cage it is or who replaced it (pics)
i think its the stock carb. it fits into the cage like a glove. (see pics)
the cage currently has single stage reeds. im not sure what they are or if they are commonly replaced with a better or easier cage on blasters? first 2 stroke, first blaster. the reeds that are in it, have 3 holes each, whereas the stock ones only have 2 (<--im told)
Has DG pipe and header, air screw 2.5 turns out, and needle is on 3rd (middle) clip.

new spark plug, oil block off (carb capped), new clutch kit, basket, psi plate, push rods n ball bearing for clutches, carb jets.

its getting fuel, spark and air. not necessarily the correct amounts of each, but its getting them.

i'm uploading phots of everything and posting them as soon as theyre done.

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Thanks, Hunter
 
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Broken reeds will cause a hard time starting...

I'd suggest replacing reeds ( im not sure on the cage...) then sealing it off and Doig a leak test.

The rpm's sky rocketing could mean a air leak...
 
Broken reeds will cause a hard time starting...

I'd suggest replacing reeds ( im not sure on the cage...) then sealing it off and Doig a leak test.

The rpm's sky rocketing could mean a air leak...

the local Yami dealer said that without already knowing what cage it is, he cant order good reeds for me :(

Btw what size jets did u replace it with?
the ones that were replaced from the kit were the same ones that came out of it. I will go and double check and post the numbers for ya tho.


Something seems odd here.
indeed it does, which part for you tho?


compression test it yet? is the tors disconnected?
compression test, no. able to move the kicker by hand, just barely. what is tors? how do you disco it?
/\ nevermind. found it. and yes it is still functioning as far as I know. its the 2 wire connector on the piece that screws on top of the carb, yes? then yes, its plugged in, but that doesn't mean someone disco'd it somewhere else on the machine. its not exactly an electrical masterpiece (by that I mean, this thing is a nightmare. it is just wired so that it starts)
 
Lay off the starting fluid it contains absolutely no lubrication!

A runaway idle is usually caused by an air leak.

Start it no more until it has passed a leak test, or you will fry your piston.



14mqc1y.jpg
 
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Looks like an FMF reed cage. Read this.....

http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/what-kind-reeds-fit-my-fmf-cage-11892/

Buy these......

Newest Version Moto Tassinari V Force Delta 4 Yamaha Blaster 200 YFS VFORCE4 | eBay

Put these reeds on and do a compression test and leak test. You are looking for around 120psi. If you get close to that then leak test. When it passes a leak test you can work on jetting. What pipe are you running? Airbox lid on or off? Oil injection deleted? What type of air filter? Elevation? All those questions will have to be answered to get some jetting reccomendations.
 
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Just read this, the airscrew is way too far out if you are using the stock #32.5 pilot jet.

"Has DG pipe and header, air screw 2.5 turns out, and needle is on 3rd (middle) clip."
 
Well I think one thing is for sure. You need new reeds. And sense you can't buy FMF reeds, just buy some V-force 4's. Then pm AWK and get a leak tester or build your own.
 
Lay off the starting fluid it contains absolutely no lubrication!

A runaway idle is usually caused by an air leak.

Start it no more until it has passed a leak test, or you will fry your piston.

How To Perform a Leak Down Test – YouTube

Demonstrating a Leak Down Test performed on a Yamaha Blaster – YouTube

14mqc1y.jpg

i know, i have honestly never even used starting fluid on any of my machines. i usually clean the carbs, put it together and win. this thing was free (you read that right). but im starting to think even that was a mistake.

I am guessing the same last name but no actual relation to Ken ;)

hahaha, i just looked at that in his signature. lol. i dont think im related to him.

Looks like an FMF reed cage. Read this.....

http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/what-kind-reeds-fit-my-fmf-cage-11892/

Buy these......

Newest Version Moto Tassinari V Force Delta 4 Yamaha Blaster 200 YFS VFORCE4 | eBay

Put these reeds on and do a compression test and leak test. You are looking for around 120psi. If you get close to that then leak test. When it passes a leak test you can work on jetting. What pipe are you running? Airbox lid on or off? Oil injection deleted? What type of air filter? Elevation? All those questions will have to be answered to get some jetting reccomendations.

that looks EXACTLY like it. Thank you. i'll see about getting a different one now, haha

Just read this, the airscrew is way too far out if you are using the stock #32.5 pilot jet.

"Has DG pipe and header, air screw 2.5 turns out, and needle is on 3rd (middle) clip."

idk, i was just going off of what i read a few months ago on here that 2.5 was a good starting point. does the full exhaust on these things really make that much of a difference? what should the screw be set at?

I passed my test 50 or so years ago lol.:D:D:D

Internet diagnostics are so much harder than having the bike in the shop.

indeed. i hate posting up without at least a descriptive novel, pictures and vids if possible and an apology for sounding like a noob. only 1 of my quads has been to a shop because i always fix my own stuff and do my own mods, machining, tuning, etc

Agreed. I don't know how I missed that!
it happens...

I missed it as well, I just scrolled back to check if anything was said about mods and it popped into view.

it happens...


thanks a ton, guys,
Hunter OConnor,
unsure of relation to Ken OConnor lol
 
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ok.
32.5
230
and the jet in the bowl (for the choke??? no seriously what is a jet doing in the bowl?) is a 45.
and the needle is set at the 3rd middle clip

only mods (and i learned another thanks to this forum :)) are a full DG pipe and header, FMF reed cage and TORS is intact.

EDIT: just found out that part of the TORS isnt even on my machine. the part that is on the thumb throttle isnt even on the blasty anymore. ill have to get a few pics of the wiring harness (whats left of it) under the hood. so, that shouldnt hurt anything by having the tors still on the carb but not on the thumb throttle???
 
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ok.
32.5
230
and the jet in the bowl (for the choke??? no seriously what is a jet doing in the bowl?) is a 45.
and the needle is set at the 3rd middle clip

only mods (and i learned another thanks to this forum :)) are a full DG pipe and header, FMF reed cage and TORS is intact.

EDIT: just found out that part of the TORS isnt even on my machine. the part that is on the thumb throttle isnt even on the blasty anymore. ill have to get a few pics of the wiring harness (whats left of it) under the hood. so, that shouldnt hurt anything by having the tors still on the carb but not on the thumb throttle???

Problem #1 is you main jet is to small. When adding an aftermarket pipe you must jet accordingly. My guess would be 260 main. DO NOT RUN IT WITH THAT PIPE AND A 230 MAIN JET.
 
EDIT: just found out that part of the TORS isnt even on my machine. the part that is on the thumb throttle isnt even on the blasty anymore. ill have to get a few pics of the wiring harness (whats left of it) under the hood. so, that shouldnt hurt anything by having the tors still on the carb but not on the thumb throttle???

the entire TORS system must be intact and working correctly, or it won't rev past idle.
just delete it all....

88-02:
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-remove-your-tors-655/

03+
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/03-06-tors-removal-diy-41973/


i'd also suggest plug chops for the pipe/reeds/mods
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/how-plug-chop-53237/