get a toomey, i dont have one but they sound great and they dont leak at the header and there good all around pipes for a stockish motor. i strongly recomend getting your head rechambered though
new blaster and a couple questions
- Thread starter chads300
- Start date
alot of places do decent jobs. it will be around 60 at most places.
FLO-TEK
KOR
herr juggs racing
wildcard racing
joeak47 (member on here)
just to name a few
FLO-TEK
KOR
herr juggs racing
wildcard racing
joeak47 (member on here)
just to name a few
Last edited by a moderator:
and id do a +4 timing dmc pipe rechamberd head maby a 28mm carb k&n filter or aftermarket air box +3 or 4 swingarm 12 tooth front sprocket and fmf powercore 2 silencer and reed spacer between reeds and jug and v force 3 or 4 reeds
Not a good marriage, may suffer detonation. Stock timing.
Why a FMF silencer, The Alien comes with a beauty.
It may be an idea to listen to a silly old fart who runs the above mods and can keep up.
and you might invest in a front hydro conversion if you dont already have it because it doesent madder how fast you can go if you cant stop
my front drum brakes have never failed me, they work fine as long as you maintain them
Ken Oconnor is definatly the man with the plan his prices are competitive and low and he will definatly take care of you. My final imput for mods would be head mod $60 for low/mid torque a Toomey b1 $380 for a full kit in chrome includeing jets and air filter Boyesen Pro Series Reeds typically arround $48 or less and a reed spacer for power down low. and call it a job well done. here's the links for you
Toomey B-1 Pipe Kit | ATV | Rocky Mountain ATV/MC
Boyesen Pro Series Reeds | ATV | Rocky Mountain ATV/MC
Modquad Reed Spacers | ATV | Rocky Mountain ATV/MC
index
Toomey B-1 Pipe Kit | ATV | Rocky Mountain ATV/MC
Boyesen Pro Series Reeds | ATV | Rocky Mountain ATV/MC
Modquad Reed Spacers | ATV | Rocky Mountain ATV/MC
index
I guess I'll toss in my 2 cents... And I'm going to get strait to the point.
You said your going to pull the top end to inspect all the components,and thats a good idea! Now that you have it apart,this is the time to lay down your money,and get the porting and head re-chambering done! The head re-chambering and porting WILL REQUIRE a good pipe!
Why inspect only to put it back together with new gaskets,leak test,etc,only to tear it apart again after riding it a little bit,wishing you would have spent the coin and got it done? Porting and head re-chambering isn't all that expensive,if you look at all the other things you can WASTE your money on such as a reed spacer,bigger carb (not cheap), timing key,reeds,etc,etc.
What i mean by a "waste of money",is thinking your going to get big gains with the reeds,carb spacer,timing key,BIG carb,etc,but ignoring the fact that the engine still stock and breaths like stock.
Lets see...
BIG carb...$120 (used)
Assorted jets...$40
Intake boot for BIG carb...$60
Throttle cable for BIG carb...$25
Reeds ...$40- $60
Carb spacer... $25
Timing key...$25 (I think)
UNI filter...$30 (awesome filter)
Thats right in the $370 range depending on prices.
Will you notice gains with these add ons? Yes,but NOTHING LIKE PORTING AND A RE-CHAMBERED HEAD!
Bar None!
Before I go any further,I'm not trying to sell you anything. I'm just stating fact.
There is nothing worse than spending money on components that don't deliver. However...All the above components can be added at a later date,and will enhance the porting and head re-chambering.
First stop... A GOOD PIPE!
There are many. The ones that I've personally tested are...
DMC Alien,Toomey B1,Pro Circuit,and FMF. All work great with no issues. I personally prefer the DMC Alien,because I like its leak proof design and run one on my blaster,and have tuned around this pipe more than the other three...plus the price is right. Everybody has ther own opinion,and that is mine. I have extra FMF fatty's to experiment with,but not a toomey. The only reason for that,is because I don't have the extra money just to have one of those sweet things lying. Even used ones hold they're value ($$$).
Second stop... PORTING and HEAD RE-CHAMBERING!
Here's a head that I just finished for a member on here. No Timing advance required!...
BEFORE...
AFTER...
This is a "Hemi" chamber with 50% squish. This is going to to a good job in
"helping" to produce power. It works best when combined with porting like this...
Will a stock carb work with the porting? Hell yes!
This is where your ahead of the game... You can always add a BIG carb later for that little bit extra power in the upper portion of the power band.
Remember this...That STOCK carb fits like a glove and WORKS!
What about reeds?
What about them? Will they increase power? ... a little bit.
They will however enhance throttle response without question. Can you add them later? Yes, because the stock reeds work better than most people think.
What about the air filter and stock air box?
I prefer the big bad UNI FILTER. There are alot of good ones and this is the one I prefer after testing MANY! It does EVERYTHING RIGHT! As a matter of fact,any oil foam filter is tops in my book if properly maintained. You will have to remove the lid,or at least add holes to the lid. I'm in the desert and don't see much water like you folks back east,so I "Shave" the bottom of my air box instead and leave the stock lid in place with no holes. After they see how fast a stock "looking" blaster can be,and getting they're ass kicked,its always fun to lift the seat to show that little rubber air horn and stock lid in place. You always get that look of confusion. Kind of like this >>> :-/
What about the factory Yamaha "Autolube" oil injection? Can I run this whith the porting and head re-chambering?
ABSOLUTELY! Its a personal preference though. Some folks like to remove the oil injection and pre-mix,some folks like the oil injection. I like the oil injection! Everything gets oiled properly as long as you do your part...like... filling the oil tank! Pretty simple seeing that you have to also fill the fuel tank.
Before anybody gets on my ass about the Yamaha "Autolube" oil injection system,I suggest you get educated and stop listening to rumors. Its a great system that has been given a bad reputation from simple minded idiots that don't know what they're talking about. Like I said above it comes down to a personal choice... "Autolube" or "Pre-mix" Both work great. Your choice.
What about jetting? Jetting and a leak down test is the two most important things. Start reading how important these two things are,and it WILL save you a wallet full of cash and lots of stress. Use the search tab above. As an example,with the my porting above and the stock carb,you can expect to go up about 12 jet sizes from stock. This all depends on how your blaster is set up,altitude,etc,etc.
My suggestion is to not waste your time and money on components that will give little UNTIL you get the porting AND head re-chambering done. After that its all "enhacements" from the other components. Don't cheap out! Get the pipe then porting and head re-chambering FIRST! Yes the RELIABILITY and LONGEVITY is still there!
You said your going to pull the top end to inspect all the components,and thats a good idea! Now that you have it apart,this is the time to lay down your money,and get the porting and head re-chambering done! The head re-chambering and porting WILL REQUIRE a good pipe!
Why inspect only to put it back together with new gaskets,leak test,etc,only to tear it apart again after riding it a little bit,wishing you would have spent the coin and got it done? Porting and head re-chambering isn't all that expensive,if you look at all the other things you can WASTE your money on such as a reed spacer,bigger carb (not cheap), timing key,reeds,etc,etc.
What i mean by a "waste of money",is thinking your going to get big gains with the reeds,carb spacer,timing key,BIG carb,etc,but ignoring the fact that the engine still stock and breaths like stock.
Lets see...
BIG carb...$120 (used)
Assorted jets...$40
Intake boot for BIG carb...$60
Throttle cable for BIG carb...$25
Reeds ...$40- $60
Carb spacer... $25
Timing key...$25 (I think)
UNI filter...$30 (awesome filter)
Thats right in the $370 range depending on prices.
Will you notice gains with these add ons? Yes,but NOTHING LIKE PORTING AND A RE-CHAMBERED HEAD!
Bar None!
Before I go any further,I'm not trying to sell you anything. I'm just stating fact.
There is nothing worse than spending money on components that don't deliver. However...All the above components can be added at a later date,and will enhance the porting and head re-chambering.
First stop... A GOOD PIPE!
There are many. The ones that I've personally tested are...
DMC Alien,Toomey B1,Pro Circuit,and FMF. All work great with no issues. I personally prefer the DMC Alien,because I like its leak proof design and run one on my blaster,and have tuned around this pipe more than the other three...plus the price is right. Everybody has ther own opinion,and that is mine. I have extra FMF fatty's to experiment with,but not a toomey. The only reason for that,is because I don't have the extra money just to have one of those sweet things lying. Even used ones hold they're value ($$$).
Second stop... PORTING and HEAD RE-CHAMBERING!
Here's a head that I just finished for a member on here. No Timing advance required!...
BEFORE...
AFTER...
This is a "Hemi" chamber with 50% squish. This is going to to a good job in
"helping" to produce power. It works best when combined with porting like this...
Will a stock carb work with the porting? Hell yes!
This is where your ahead of the game... You can always add a BIG carb later for that little bit extra power in the upper portion of the power band.
Remember this...That STOCK carb fits like a glove and WORKS!
What about reeds?
What about them? Will they increase power? ... a little bit.
They will however enhance throttle response without question. Can you add them later? Yes, because the stock reeds work better than most people think.
What about the air filter and stock air box?
I prefer the big bad UNI FILTER. There are alot of good ones and this is the one I prefer after testing MANY! It does EVERYTHING RIGHT! As a matter of fact,any oil foam filter is tops in my book if properly maintained. You will have to remove the lid,or at least add holes to the lid. I'm in the desert and don't see much water like you folks back east,so I "Shave" the bottom of my air box instead and leave the stock lid in place with no holes. After they see how fast a stock "looking" blaster can be,and getting they're ass kicked,its always fun to lift the seat to show that little rubber air horn and stock lid in place. You always get that look of confusion. Kind of like this >>> :-/
What about the factory Yamaha "Autolube" oil injection? Can I run this whith the porting and head re-chambering?
ABSOLUTELY! Its a personal preference though. Some folks like to remove the oil injection and pre-mix,some folks like the oil injection. I like the oil injection! Everything gets oiled properly as long as you do your part...like... filling the oil tank! Pretty simple seeing that you have to also fill the fuel tank.
Before anybody gets on my ass about the Yamaha "Autolube" oil injection system,I suggest you get educated and stop listening to rumors. Its a great system that has been given a bad reputation from simple minded idiots that don't know what they're talking about. Like I said above it comes down to a personal choice... "Autolube" or "Pre-mix" Both work great. Your choice.
What about jetting? Jetting and a leak down test is the two most important things. Start reading how important these two things are,and it WILL save you a wallet full of cash and lots of stress. Use the search tab above. As an example,with the my porting above and the stock carb,you can expect to go up about 12 jet sizes from stock. This all depends on how your blaster is set up,altitude,etc,etc.
My suggestion is to not waste your time and money on components that will give little UNTIL you get the porting AND head re-chambering done. After that its all "enhacements" from the other components. Don't cheap out! Get the pipe then porting and head re-chambering FIRST! Yes the RELIABILITY and LONGEVITY is still there!
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Everybody has different prices, "packages" they offer, options,etc.
It will also depend on if you need it bored and a new piston fitted,or if its good to go,and only needs "ported".
It will also depend on if you need it bored and a new piston fitted,or if its good to go,and only needs "ported".
