new 2005, swap from unkown twist throttle to 400EX thumb w/ TORS delete!

[japdeathtrap]

So I recently picked up an unknown year, blaster from a friend in the military for about 800$ cash. He bought from his neighbor for a little bit more.

I rode this quad at his house and it ran fine, shortly after buying it it had a very weird issue that I am addressing now. When I start the engine the idle shoots to an extremely high idle RPM...seems like its going to redline.

has a cheap-o ebay twist throttle with the stock TORS unit on the carb, upon inspecting the throttle cable; in the part were the twist throttle end is, the cable is torn to crap, hanging on by like 2 threads. Also didnt like having a twist throttle, not sure why anyone would.

switching to a honda 400EX thumb throttle, from a 2001. also purchased a TORS delete kit; complete with drill bit, tap, and a throttle cable.

I will try and upload pics and a step-by-step of my experience

 

[Blaaster]

Twist throttles are fine, you just have to master riding with them.

 

[japdeathtrap]

Twist throttles are fine, you just have to master riding with them.

yes, but not for novice riders and teaching women how to drive a quad they partially paid for (x-mas present).
I had a twist throttle on the bike I used to own and I feel like this will be a toy I could keep longer If the fiancee felt like it was less scary.
it is actually a pretty fast bike. and I have driven an 07 TRX450R this was actually not far off. now I do think that this quad has some mild modifications. the guy that owned it before has been into racing before. it has an aftermarket wider rear axle, exhaust and front suspension. also may be suspect of having different jets and other engine mods

also has a new chain and the sprockets are different

 

[japdeathtrap]

ok so is the brass screw supposed to actually touch the slide? it's little head sticks right though the parallel cut in the slide and does not interfere with it. the bike does idle better though

 

[Awk08]

Did you file the bevel down flat where the jamb nut seats ?
If not do so, if so file it down further until the tip of the idle screw actually lifts the slide open.

 

[japdeathtrap]

from when I linked the new throttle setup to the slide and lid, and looked down in the carb runner, the head of the brass screw does not impede the slide at all. the tiny pecker fits right between the parallel cut in the slide, and the side has full action; not matter how far in I screw it.

now what has made a noticeable change in idle is when I adjust the throttle cable tension at the new thumb throttle. but it's a very violent change. one thread tighter or looser changed the speed a lot.

so basically I am creating the same effect but by having the slide open from the throttle being slightly open via the cable adjustment, I also turned the pilot screw on the carb 2 turns out from bottom and its pretty stable. seems a little boggy on take off (dropping into 1st and going to WOT) .

I also took a picture of the jet thats in the bottom of the carb, the first brass threaded piece that screws off when you take out the 4 screws off the bottom. it had the #230 on it. if that means anything.

I'm new to carburated engines if you didn't notice. all my stuff to date has been fuel injected execpt the bike I had, which had no idle issues

 

[Awk08]

file the boss down further so the screw goes in further and can actually lift the slide.

I also turned the pilot screw on the carb 2 turns out from bottom and its pretty stable. seems a little boggy on take off (dropping into 1st and going to WOT)

try 1/8 turns either way till it revs clean


230 is the stock main jet, that'll work if everything else is stock...pipe, filter, airbox lid on, ect., and in summer temps.
any mods, premix fuel, cold weather, and low elevation could require a bigger main jet
you'll need to do plug chops to confirm if it's correct or not for your exact situation

 

[japdeathtrap]

file the boss down further so the screw goes in further and can actually lift the slide.
try 1/8 turns either way till it revs clean
230 is the stock main jet, that'll work if everything else is stock...pipe, filter, airbox lid on, ect., and in summer temps.
any mods, premix fuel, cold weather, and low elevation could require a bigger main jet
you'll need to do plug chops to confirm if it's correct or not for your exact situation

thanks AWK. guess your the "go-to" guy on this site and I appreciate your help!
Anyway. the "header" (I guess thats what you call it on quads) the first pipe out of the exhaust port it is aftermarket...I think it says AWG on it?

and the muffler/last part of the exhaust is a DG.

the air box has a larger square cut into it (i guess to act as a CAI) and the filter looks to be aftermarket.

Ill take the carb off again *Sigh* for like the 5th time and try what you said...I just dont see how its going to touch the slide because it has a parallel cut in it....its the same part of the slide that fits with that notch in the carb to keep it in line

P.S.
for the brass screw on the carb right beside the main fuel line. I should turn it in until It bottoms out and then 1.5 turns out then start from there?

 

[Awk08]

I just dont see how its going to touch the slide because it has a parallel cut in it....its the same part of the slide that fits with that notch in the carb to keep it in line

no, the slot/alignment pin is on the kicker side, the larger notch on the shifter side is cut on an angle specifically for an idle screw, which was left out of this carb in favor of the idle screw on the TORs unit, but the carb and slide are setup to accept the idle screw you're installing,
again....file the boss down further to allow the screw to go in far enuf to lift the slide slightly, like 1/8" max looking from the back.

for the brass screw on the carb right beside the main fuel line. I should turn it in until It bottoms out and then 1.5 turns out then start from there?

yes, thats the airscrew, start at 1.5 turns out from lightly seated, then follow the tuning guide to find highest idle...
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/adjusting-your-airscrew-pilot-jet.51060/



PS. back at ya....
that 230 stock main jet will fry your shiz with an aftermarket pipe and airbox lid modified to allow "CIA" as you tuners call it

we kind of really need to know exaclty what pipe you have, (post pics, never heard of an AGM ?) your elevation and current temps to suggest a closer range of jetting,
but common range of jetting to buy is 270 thru 320 mains.
that'll cover main jetting for a wide range of mods, temps, elev. ect.

you must learn to and do plug chops to confirm what main jet your exact situation requires....or fry your shiz !
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-plug-chop.53237/

 

[jimmu]

I think you've tapped the wrong side of the carb. The idle screw gets tapped and installed on the left/shifter side of the carb and the taper on the end of the screw contacts the tapered part of the slide.

 

[jus_me]

I think jimmu may be right. You could have tapped the wrong side of the carb for the idle screw. It can easily be confused since it has threads and looks like it should have gone there. It should be on the same side as the choke knob. It can be fixed though so don't worry, a little jb weld or even a fitting nut with a dab of silicone to seal it up. Then drill, tap, the correct side..

 

[japdeathtrap]

I think jimmu may be right. You could have tapped the wrong side of the carb for the idle screw. It can easily be confused since it has threads and looks like it should have gone there. It should be on the same side as the choke knob. It can be fixed though so don't worry, a little jb weld or even a fitting nut with a dab of silicone to seal it up. Then drill, tap, the correct side..

Its on the shifter side. Side where the choke is.

The header is awd. The muffler is dg.

What is the socket size for the spark plug? I couldent fit a 22mm on it and 19 was too small. Those were the only 2 sizes i have. So is it a 20 or 21? Also what is the spark plug part # ? It must be an an NGK right?

 

[jus_me]

NGK B8es