NEED HELP!

The importance of the leak test is to ensure you have a leak free motor. If you have an air leak than any info we recommend is really pointless and you will be chasing your tail trying to figure out what is going on. Once we know it is leak free we can go from there.

While you have the carb off to do a leak test it would be a great idea to open up the carb again and clean the carb very well . Make sure all jets are clean and that you can see light through them(carb cleaner and compressed air). . Make sure float is set correctly.

http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/carb-cleaning-how-to-video.39683/

And,,

http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/float-heights-and-how-to-adjust-them.50565/
 
in response to your other post.
make sure the top cover on your carb is tight.
they can come loose check it with your hand.
if it does come loose it will pin itself and you wont be able to stop ito_O..#2 in pic

carb plus idle 1 1 1 big 1.jpg
 
There is one place that the leak tester will not tell you if there is a leak!

This of course is where the header pipe fits to the cylinder, if there is a leak in the exhaust it may produce a lean mixture which will burn hotter and can cause engine run on!

This leak will seldom cause a run away problem at idle but it can occur at wider throttle openings where the expelled fuel charge in the expansion chamber is not completely forced back into the cylinder.
This may produce a lean mixture.

The major places for leaks are around the reed block, carby boot and crankshaft oil seals!
 
Last edited:
jus_me said:
The importance of the leak test is to ensure you have a leak free motor. If you have an air leak than any info we recommend is really pointless and you will be chasing your tail trying to figure out what is going on. Once we know it is leak free we can go from there.

While you have the carb off to do a leak test it would be a great idea to open up the carb again and clean the carb very well . Make sure all jets are clean and that you can see light through them(carb cleaner and compressed air). . Make sure float is set correctly.

http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/carb-cleaning-how-to-video.39683/

And,,

http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/float-heights-and-how-to-adjust-them.50565/
Click to expand...
Well, I've been looking at the leak down test on ebay. But I haven't purchased one yet. But today I decided to check my reeds. So what I found was the reeds them selves were not even screwed down. And were cracked! Could this be the problem?
 
Certainly can be. The cracked reeds will make for harder starting and an iffy throttle response. Now if the screws for the reeds were to come out than you could have some serious problems. Not as much from the reed being sucked in but from the little screw it self. When you put new reeds in make sure to use some locktight on the little screws so they don't come loose.

Member AWK sells leak testers or you can make one yourself. There is a diy thread on how to build one etc.. You need to leak test though and be sure you are leak free. On a 2 stroke a leak test is first and foremost before looking into anything else.
 
jus_me said:
Certainly can be. The cracked reeds will make for harder starting and an iffy throttle response. Now if the screws for the reeds were to come out than you could have some serious problems. Not as much from the reed being sucked in but from the little screw it self. When you put new reeds in make sure to use some locktight on the little screws so they don't come loose.

Member AWK sells leak testers or you can make one yourself. There is a diy thread on how to build one etc.. You need to leak test though and be sure you are leak free. On a 2 stroke a leak test is first and foremost before looking into anything else.
Click to expand...
Thank you! I'll have to look in on how to make a leak down tester.
 
jus_me said:
Certainly can be. The cracked reeds will make for harder starting and an iffy throttle response. Now if the screws for the reeds were to come out than you could have some serious problems. Not as much from the reed being sucked in but from the little screw it self. When you put new reeds in make sure to use some locktight on the little screws so they don't come loose.

Member AWK sells leak testers or you can make one yourself. There is a diy thread on how to build one etc.. You need to leak test though and be sure you are leak free. On a 2 stroke a leak test is first and foremost before looking into anything else.
Click to expand...
Would it be okay to buy a different style of reeds? Or should I get the same ones?
 
Yeah, there are a few different types of reeds. I would say to go with a dual stage reed. . Just when you install them use the stock reed stop and not the thin metal strip they supply.

If you really wanted to upgrade you could go with a whole new reed cage/reed set up like any of the V force or a Boyesen rad valve.
 
jus_me said:
Yeah, there are a few different types of reeds. I would say to go with a dual stage reed. . Just when you install them use the stock reed stop and not the thin metal strip they supply.

If you really wanted to upgrade you could go with a whole new reed cage/reed set up like any of the V force or a Boyesen rad valve.
Click to expand...
Well the reeds that are in already have two layers. There's the first layer of reed that has holes in the middle then the second layer covers them holes. So would it be okay to just buy the reeds that are just a solid reed instead of the two holes in the middle?
 
Yes ,, you can get that kind but the dual stage will have a better crisper throttle response.
 
jus_me said:
Any new reeds are better than worn chipped old reeds.
Click to expand...
if the reed cage is upside down could this also affect the throttle sticking? On the reed metal plates one side is smooth and other says "high" does the side that says "high" need to be facing up? Or is it all the same?
 
speedyslyder said:
if you hit kill switch,and key and it was still running,your going to fry that engine.
it is getting way to hot...only time i have experienced that was when a spark plug was gapped to close and it was on a chainsaw lol

you have a carb/fuel/massive air leak problem...or at least 1 or 2 of those:)

do you have a pic of your carb?
Click to expand...
How could I check for a carb leak?
 
speedyslyder said:
did you replace reeds or not im confused?
is it a stock carb?
got a pic of carb/reeds?o_O
Click to expand...
I'm gonna order the reeds. Carb is stock. But it smokes white smoke really bad. And doesn't go away after being warmed up. Also it smells. Not sure why? I'm running 32:1 amsoil. Fmf fatty.
 
Yeahitsquick said:
I'm gonna order the reeds. Carb is stock. But it smokes white smoke really bad. And doesn't go away after being warmed up. Also it smells. Not sure why? I'm running 32:1 amsoil. Fmf fatty.
Click to expand...

it is burning tranny fluid
leaking from clutch side crank seal.
if it is white and dont smell like your 2 stroke oil.
you better fix that or kaboom...a leak test would show that but.
i think everyone will agree:)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Nathon
2005 blaster boggs and smokes
Replies
0
Views
108
Engine
Nathon
Nathon
T
Piston Skirt Explosion
Replies
1
Views
303
Engine
RIDE-RED350r
RIDE-RED350r
D
I have spark, but blaster wont start
Replies
3
Views
247
Carburetor
RIDE-RED350r
RIDE-RED350r
HawaiianBassHed
Please tell me there's a chance kick start being locked doesn't mean bottom end...
Replies
3
Views
385
Engine
Tooloose
Tooloose
E
Bought my first 2-stroke, but she’s a mess
Replies
19
Views
389
Carburetor
Jerry Sosa
J
Top Bottom
Back