it moves side 2 side but it barely moves up and down i need to know what i have to have to replace it
A bit of side-to-side play in the rod is OK, like yb said. It is actually required. If the rod doesn't move up-and-down upon its bearing, I'd leave well enough alone. Just do the new top end and go on. Should you have to replace the connecting rod, you will need to tear the whole engine down, split the cases, and send the crankshaft off to a reputable shop to have it rebuilt. Wiseco, Vesrah and Hot Rods all make replacement connecting rods for a Blasty.
A connecting rod job will require:
-Full gasket set
-Seal kit
-Yamabond (or equivalent) liquid sealant
-New crankshaft bearings (recommended)
-Flywheel puller
-Case-splitting tool
-Torque wrench
-Plenty of shop rags
-And...lots of patience and an understanding of your Blaster shop manual. (Which is a good investment if you don't already have one!!)
I gotta ask. How much history do you have on your Blaster? 80psi compression definately means that you need to re-do the top end. However, the crankshaft/connecting rod question you have may hinge on how the top end met its demise.
What I mean is this: If the engine was run long and hard for years, and it finally just 'wore out', I'd go ahead and get the crank rebuilt. The top end took quite a pounding during that time, and most likely so did the crank. The same goes for an engine that has been damaged due to dirt ingestion. If your Blasty sucked in a lot of dirt/debris through a leaky intake or air leak, DEFINATELY have that crank rebuilt, and put in new main bearings as well. Fine particles of sand/other crap will thoroughly wreck every moving part in a 2-stroke. Top and bottom end.
However, if you just accidentally blew-up the engine by running lean, or if it 'cold-seized' on you, or if you had a piston skirt break, you may well be able to get away with just a fresh top end, leaving the rod alone. This kind of damage usually just affects the piston, rings, and cylinder, so the rod can often be re-used without issues. When in doubt, get it fixed properly. Good luck! Putting in a new (or rebuilt) crank now is a lot easier than doing it again later, after you thought you had it rebuilt properly the first time. Trust me.
