Ne1 out their ice race?
- Thread starter Yblaster95
- Start date
not an ice racer but i no enough, make sure ur tires are studded or else ur gonna suck, when corering sit low on the side of the bike and hang them corners fast
i havent race competeitivly but iv been known to put a hurtin on friends and random others on the ice oval,... both on a blaster and on my 200x
yeah i got my tires studded. 250 each tire and im gonna go race at the local track with some buds.
well start out with the hard part.. technec (sp?) cant spell today.. your form and body english plays a big part in it, what alot of quad riders dont realise is that if they get off the side of the machine like 3 wheeler racers do you will be even faster and more stable...
check out these vids to get a idea od body english and form.
studded tires are a must unless your running tires made for non studded class.. for studs.. kold kutters.. you want enough to hook, but enough to support each other, just think of people laying on a bed of nails. im running 500 ice screws between 3 wheels, and 100 or so sheet metal screws on outter lugs just for throwin snow and ice roosts.
suspension.. LOW!! you want it low, lowered machine wil lbe faster due to being more stable, and wider, wheel spacers or axle in the rear, and wheel flip in the front of spacers, unless you have wider a arms all ready, if you cant get get your machine low you need to get your body low!! ... did i mention LOW???
serious guys run shorter swing arms to make the turning radius tighter BUT a blaster dont need it since there short to begin with, ..
a cheap temporary option for lowering would be to get some strong ratchet straps hook them on the shock mounts and have someone sit on the blaster or 2 peaople and lock the ratchet straps to it keeps the suspension low, dont keep it like this all the time but for ice race days its fine, rear you can go from the carrier to the frame, or the shock mounts also
check out these vids to get a idea od body english and form.
studded tires are a must unless your running tires made for non studded class.. for studs.. kold kutters.. you want enough to hook, but enough to support each other, just think of people laying on a bed of nails. im running 500 ice screws between 3 wheels, and 100 or so sheet metal screws on outter lugs just for throwin snow and ice roosts.
suspension.. LOW!! you want it low, lowered machine wil lbe faster due to being more stable, and wider, wheel spacers or axle in the rear, and wheel flip in the front of spacers, unless you have wider a arms all ready, if you cant get get your machine low you need to get your body low!! ... did i mention LOW???
serious guys run shorter swing arms to make the turning radius tighter BUT a blaster dont need it since there short to begin with, ..
a cheap temporary option for lowering would be to get some strong ratchet straps hook them on the shock mounts and have someone sit on the blaster or 2 peaople and lock the ratchet straps to it keeps the suspension low, dont keep it like this all the time but for ice race days its fine, rear you can go from the carrier to the frame, or the shock mounts also
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if your quick enough, you can use your rear brake to start your slide, at the same time snappin the clutch when you let off the brake to power threw the corner sideways.. you will see the guy on the 250r in the first few vids doing that
i personnaly dont use the brakes to start the slide unless i have to, granted im running a 4 stroke thats set up for ice so i got enough torque to get it sideways and keep it sideways just on throttle, even on my blaster i never used the rear brakes ( didnt have any lol) just shift your weight.. if you can get on ice and play around and figure out what works and what dont thats gonna be your best bet.. i taught my self, by reading, and watching others
yes... i have my frok tubes in front willed with 5 psi of air on top of the springs and fork oil already in them, and the rear, i have the shock link flipped upside down to lower the rear... as you can see by my sig pic the back is low, thoughs are 18'' tires
and i have the spanner nuts on the spring turned down to make the pre load stiffer
if your not racing competitivly.. like points of money i wouldnt worry about it, i did fine on a bone stock blaster last winter
you want some practice running rivers all out come up to Green Bay. Think of center of gravity and centrifugal force. A lot of of 4cfed said is true but I would not go with sheet metal screws, use kold cutters or gold max. I run arond 400 each rear tire. The slot also makes a difference for corners or straights. If they are perpindicular to the tire its better for the straights. If you drag you could even go with dry wall screws from the inside out, but that takes a lot of work and patience.
and also on straits this is what i learned i mean on straits sit rite over te rear for more traction and for the corners lean forward when your on the side of the bike so you get your weight over the front tires and the back can spin a little more thats what i learned and also if you look in ebay at the lowering brackets those aint hard to make, and also i ran in the non studded last year so what im talkin about helps for that
from what i hear SOFT tires are the best for none studded ice racing.. guess turf tamers work really good, i have my studs in no certain direction, there where ever i stopped... works out good only time mine is easy to slide is on smooth ice with snow on top of it than mione slides nice
arent turf tamers a really hard tire? i no there best for hard packed condtions so ice would work for them but just wondering, the tire its self is hard
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