My 240 with stroker build
- Thread starter nick20555
- Start date
Making some headway toward the build. Ken called me a few days ago and told me what was going on with the motor and double checked a few things with me. I asked how the motor looked because the friend I bought it from is known for destroying his toys. Said it looked good and the little stuff that was wrong was an easy fix with the work he will be doing for me. Also said that my +3 install and bottom end rebuild that I did looked good. 
So after hearing that good news, I decide today that I should start ordering the parts to upgrade the non motor parts. Got a CFM air box, uni filter (heard they filter better for the dust that the air box lets in), keihin 35mm PWK air striker, throttle cable, intake manifold, and some vforce 4 reeds all coming in. I know, thats a lot of money but hopefully it will pay off in my HP gains. I'll be waiting for my carb to come in so that I can report what jets and needle comes with and then have you guys help me on a good start for jetting.
So after hearing that good news, I decide today that I should start ordering the parts to upgrade the non motor parts. Got a CFM air box, uni filter (heard they filter better for the dust that the air box lets in), keihin 35mm PWK air striker, throttle cable, intake manifold, and some vforce 4 reeds all coming in. I know, thats a lot of money but hopefully it will pay off in my HP gains. I'll be waiting for my carb to come in so that I can report what jets and needle comes with and then have you guys help me on a good start for jetting.
I'm 23 and still going to school with another year left after this. Homework is just instinct to me by now.
The engine better thank me because my wallet is pissed.
I'm just ready to get it all installed and take it out and catch some stock 450s off guard. I wanna let the people in my area know that 2 strokes still exist and they can hang with the big 4 strokes if you build them right. Last race season someone came out to the small track we got in the area that only runs about 6 races a year with a modded 250r and made everyone in the open B class look like they were in first gear. No one knew what was happening. I just sat back and took in that 2 stroke smell and smiled
I forgot to mention that I just went ahead and spent the extra money on the driveline heavy duty clutch kit. Mainly went with that because I'd really like to just go top of the line with my parts if it isn't much more since I'm already dropping a lot of money in it and from what I hear, I shouldn't have any issues with it wearing too fast. I'm gonna be pushing a lot of HP so I'd like to have a nice clutch to handle it.
Just curious to see if any of you can suggest some gearing I should go with on a build like this. I'm pretty sure its on stock gearing right now but got a chain in bad shape so I figured I might want to go ahead and get some sprockets as well. I'm guessing +1 (14 tooth) on the front is a safe bet but what do you think on the back?
Also, what are your opinions on a 4 degree timing advance on a build like this? I talked to Ken about it when I had him on the phone and he acts like I'm going to see so much HP with the +3 and 72.5mm bore that I may not even need to bother with little stuff like that but said its up to me and said just 4 degrees if I it.
Also, what are your opinions on a 4 degree timing advance on a build like this? I talked to Ken about it when I had him on the phone and he acts like I'm going to see so much HP with the +3 and 72.5mm bore that I may not even need to bother with little stuff like that but said its up to me and said just 4 degrees if I it.
Advancing the timing 4 deg is not going to provide any more power, what it will do is allow the power to come on earlier.
You will be pleased with the power you'll get. Ken did mine, its very similar to yours. Vito's +3, 73mm, driveline clutch, DynoPort exhaust, 34mm keihin (off of an '85 atc 250r). I am running the stock airbox though. I bought a new intake boot for that size carb and then modified the airbox with some pvc and plumbing supplies that were similar to what was pictured above somewhere. I'd like to try a 38mm carb like was suggested above, I bet it pulls quite well!! It doesn't sound like you have overlooked anything. Looking forward to hear what you think of it once you get it finished.
Yes yours sounds very similar to my build I'm working on. I'm curious as to what sprocket setup you're running. I don't want to have so much power that I'm shifting as fast and you can release the clutch and only top out at 50. I would like to have some top end but I don't want the gears to be so long that I lose valuable power and can't keep it in the power band.
Without going back and reading I am assuming your head has been re chambered and squish is good ? If you are going to advance the timing I suggest doing so in small increments. A degree or even a half a degree at a time and listen for any odd noises and see if you find a sweet spot. Also like Blaaster said different timing likes different rpm ranges. A +4 timing may be favored by someone yet it's not for you.
What size rear tires?
What size rear tires?
Yes Ken is doing the head. I probably will just leave the timing alone though and not worry about it.
I'm running a 20 tires in the rear. I think I'll go with a 14 in the front and get a new chain with it and leave the stock rear and see how I like it because it's a lot easier to go smaller in the future because worst case scenario I will have to order a smaller later and knock a link out of the chain.
I think a 14 front is a good choice imo. As far as the rear you should get a new sprocket also. Even if stock sprocket just a new one. The sprockets and chain marry each other. Best to do all 3 at once.
The thing about advancing the timing is it is pretty easy if you don't like the advance.
The thing about advancing the timing is it is pretty easy if you don't like the advance.
Yes, I understand that the old sprocket would wear the chain faster. I meant that I would keep stock teeth on the rear unless by some chance the rear one looks almost new. And most of the time you can find a kit with all 3 for around the price of getting a chain and only one sprocket.
The timing just seems like something that may take some time to find a good spot so I think that can be a future thing for me but with all I'm going to be doing when I get my motor back, I think it will be best to leave the timing stock right now and change timing down the road if I want something to work on.
Sorry to bring back an old post on this thread but I should be getting my carb (keihin 35mm PWK air stricker) in the mail in the next few days so I was going to see what jets and stuff is in it so I can order parts for it accordingly. Sounds like it should come with a 160 main 48 pilot 48DEK needle and C.A. 4.5 throttle valve if it goes off the standard that keihin's website shows. You state above good starting points for it but the only thing I'm confused by is the #6 slide. Is that referring to the 6th position on the needle? because that is the only thing I don't see in your list that you definitely need to adjust when jetting.
I'm calling it the slide, you're saying it's coming with a 4.5 throttle valve.
Same part, different terms.
Wifesblaster and I both required #6 slides, and I could probably drop to the next leanest.
See what the 4.5 does for you, but I'm betting it'll need a # 6 throttle valve, and a CEL needle.
Same part, different terms.
Wifesblaster and I both required #6 slides, and I could probably drop to the next leanest.
See what the 4.5 does for you, but I'm betting it'll need a # 6 throttle valve, and a CEL needle.
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