jetting
- Thread starter newtoyamaha2121
- Start date
the main jet purpose is to let fuel in to the carb, the main jet only comes into play afte 1/2 throttle though. And you will need a bigger main jet if you get a bigger exhaust pipe or take off the air lid, the reason for that is, a aftermarket exhaust lets the exhaust out quicker and therefore will need a bigger main jet, if you dont change the main jet it will cause a lean mixture and blow the engine after awhile, same with a new airfiltwer or any upgrade to the intake, letting in more air will need a bigger main jet, also you can be to rich on main jets and that wont cause any harm at all, gas acts as a coolant to a 2-stroke engine, but you will know if you have to big of a main jet because it will run like crap and fowl plugs, thats why we plug chop! we find the perfect jet and it runs smooth and just like it should! oh yeah also you cant forget to leak test the engine, if your 2-stroke engine has a airleak (sucking in air from somewhere it shouldint) that will also cause it to run lean and seize the engine.
if your not upgrading your exhaust theres no point, but yea anythings possible
no power will be gained, if anything power will be lost, what are your current mods/aftermarket parts right now? or is it all stock?
yea dont rejet it then unless you have to, if you have never airleak tested the engine i recomend it
The reason you re jet is when you change the breathing or air fuel ratio of the motor.
Some advantages can be gained by removing the air box lid and/of fitting a better air filter, these mods require a main jet change.
If you change anything jetting should be confirmed by a plug chop.
Some advantages can be gained by removing the air box lid and/of fitting a better air filter, these mods require a main jet change.
If you change anything jetting should be confirmed by a plug chop.
No airbox lid requires the main jet to be increased 1 or 2 sizes or a lean mix can cause damage.
Plug chop.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, roll to a stop.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/
This is a good to go plug.
This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.
You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.
Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.
The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet curcuit.
I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.
If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.
Plug chop.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, roll to a stop.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/
This is a good to go plug.
This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.
You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.
Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.
The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet curcuit.
I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.
If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.
i cant turn it off key nor killswitch does not work the only way to kill it is to put it in first and let off the clutch
I am not sure if I would like to ride a bike that would not switch off.
Before you do a plug chop you need to get that fixed.
Maybe the connector has jumped off the key switch.
Before you do a plug chop you need to get that fixed.
Maybe the connector has jumped off the key switch.
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