iwant a oil cooler
- Thread starter 06blasterboy06
- Start date
oh not me haaha. i was just saying run that if he wants some low end lol.
i use 15/44 on my 5-hundy
i use 15/44 on my 5-hundy
The reason 4 strokes run oil coolers is because they run the same motor oil over and over. They're especially prevalent on air cooled 4 strokes because the oil actually does a lot of the cooling (oil squirters in the bottom end and usually the heads are designed so that the oil bathes the exhaust port and valve guides to keep them cooler)
Motor oil is good up to about 375° but then it begins to break down (the hydrocarbon chains begin to oxidize and break into shorter less lubricating chains which is what "coke" is) If air cooled 4 stroke engines didn't have oil coolers the motor oil would burn up in short order and the crankshaft, piston, and camshaft would be toast.
Typical 2 strokes, use total loss oiling. Oil is either injected into the intake tract or mixed with the fuel and once it has done it's job it's burnt and ejected out the exhaust pipe.
The transmission fluid (typically motor oil but can also be modified gear oil or ATF) in a 2 stroke is not subjected to the same heat and contamination as it is in a 4 stroke. The transmission fluid gets hot, but not nearly as hot because it's not directly exposed to the combustion process.
If you were making a drag bike where transmission fluid temperature could be a concern, you could install a small "spoon" pickup in the clutch cover on the outside of the clutch ring gear to act as a catcher for forcing transmission fluid up and around a cooling loop. Because it would be pressurized the cooling loop would have to stay down low near the footpeg and then dump back in at the bottom of the clutch cover or transmission case.
Motor oil is good up to about 375° but then it begins to break down (the hydrocarbon chains begin to oxidize and break into shorter less lubricating chains which is what "coke" is) If air cooled 4 stroke engines didn't have oil coolers the motor oil would burn up in short order and the crankshaft, piston, and camshaft would be toast.
Typical 2 strokes, use total loss oiling. Oil is either injected into the intake tract or mixed with the fuel and once it has done it's job it's burnt and ejected out the exhaust pipe.
The transmission fluid (typically motor oil but can also be modified gear oil or ATF) in a 2 stroke is not subjected to the same heat and contamination as it is in a 4 stroke. The transmission fluid gets hot, but not nearly as hot because it's not directly exposed to the combustion process.
If you were making a drag bike where transmission fluid temperature could be a concern, you could install a small "spoon" pickup in the clutch cover on the outside of the clutch ring gear to act as a catcher for forcing transmission fluid up and around a cooling loop. Because it would be pressurized the cooling loop would have to stay down low near the footpeg and then dump back in at the bottom of the clutch cover or transmission case.
nope, it is not the proper oil for the engine or the tranny. you need a good 2 stroke oil used for mixing with gas. the clutch will slip like hell if you use it in the tranny too. good cheap ford atf fluid works great in the trans and something like klotz or maxima is great for the gas mix.
You need to use 2 stroke oil for the engine. Either specified for oil injection systems (if you're still using the oil injection system) or premix( if you're mixing the oil with the gasoline before you put it in the gas tank)
The yamaha service manual calls for SAE 10W-30 motor oil (non energy conserving) motor oil for the transmission. You won't find any 10W-30 non energy conserving motor oil for sale in an auto parts store anymore. They've all moved up to at LEAST SM rating which is energy conserving.
The reason you cannot use energy conserving motor oil in the transmission is because the fluid needed to lubricate the transmission also cools and lubricates the clutch (hence the term "wet clutch"). Energy conserving oils have sulphur and phosphate compounds in them which will stick to the clutch plates and make them "gummy" causing them to either slip against the steels or stick to the pressure plate and inner clutch hub. Either way is bad.....
There are a few alternatives for the 10W-30 motor oil though. I run standard ATF (automatic transmission fluid) although I've heard you should only run type F or type FA. Type F or type FA is used only in pre-1974 ford transmissions and, like non energy conserving motor oil, is going the way of the dodo bird.
I switched to standard dextron/mercon 3 when I put the new clutch in with no ill effects. I think the FA recommendation was because someone tried FA and it worked so they continued to recommend it.
There are also special "hybrid" gear oils. Normal gear oils (80W-90 is most typical) cannot be used on wet clutches either. Some has been modified (LSD gear oil) or specially blended (Belray gear saver) to be compatible. They are pricey but some people swear by them.
The yamaha service manual calls for SAE 10W-30 motor oil (non energy conserving) motor oil for the transmission. You won't find any 10W-30 non energy conserving motor oil for sale in an auto parts store anymore. They've all moved up to at LEAST SM rating which is energy conserving.
The reason you cannot use energy conserving motor oil in the transmission is because the fluid needed to lubricate the transmission also cools and lubricates the clutch (hence the term "wet clutch"). Energy conserving oils have sulphur and phosphate compounds in them which will stick to the clutch plates and make them "gummy" causing them to either slip against the steels or stick to the pressure plate and inner clutch hub. Either way is bad.....
There are a few alternatives for the 10W-30 motor oil though. I run standard ATF (automatic transmission fluid) although I've heard you should only run type F or type FA. Type F or type FA is used only in pre-1974 ford transmissions and, like non energy conserving motor oil, is going the way of the dodo bird.
I switched to standard dextron/mercon 3 when I put the new clutch in with no ill effects. I think the FA recommendation was because someone tried FA and it worked so they continued to recommend it.
There are also special "hybrid" gear oils. Normal gear oils (80W-90 is most typical) cannot be used on wet clutches either. Some has been modified (LSD gear oil) or specially blended (Belray gear saver) to be compatible. They are pricey but some people swear by them.
nonono im not talking about premix im talking about oil that goes in to the right side of the cASE and why cant i use motor oil i always used it but any way what should i use guys
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