Im back another problem =( Blaster acting very strange.

This is a case where a picture is worth a thousand words and unfortunately I'm at work and don't have any pictures of the inner workings of the carburetor on my computer :(

I'll do my best to explain what you're looking at in words!

The carburetor, as it sits on the quad, is accessable from the left side of the quad with a large "box" screwed down on top, the float bowl and bowl drain tubes hanging off the bottom, the "inlet" towards the rear of the quad and the "outlet" towards the engine (stuck into the intake manifold).

The fuel inlet is on the left side (outside) running from the tank and the "pilot air screw" is on the left side as well under the inlet of the carburetor (it's a little brass screw kinda hidden down there!)

Everything under the carburetor throat (the hole down through the middle that the air passes through) is considered the float bowl. The purpose is to meter a constant amount of fuel into it so that the engine can readily be supplied with fuel quickly.

The "box" on top of the carburetor is the "tors" or throttle override system, box. The idle screw (that adjusts the lowest point of the slide) is up on the very back corner of this box. That "box" screws onto the top of the carburetor and has a little bracket holding the carburetor cap from unscrewing itself.

If you take the carburetor off the engine and look longways down the throat, you should see a "barrel" shaped piece in the middle. That's the carburetor slide. The carburetor slide is what meters the air coming into the engine.

Hanging out of the bottom of the slide is the "jet needle" (so named by keihin, mikuni might call it something else) which meters the fuel in the "mid range" area of throttle.

If you press the thumb throttle while looking down the carburetor throat, the slide should come up (allowing more air into the engine) and you should see the needle come up with it gently getting thinner as it rises.

Alright si good explanition i got all that in yellowI:I so are u saying that the needle is on the carbs slide or the throttle slide because if i hit the throttle while the carb is off it will do nothing except move the throttle slide or what ever that is an contract the spring i was messing with it yesterday... an so where is the pilot jet not pilot air screw i got that i need the jet an that needle you refering to is the one i have to make sure is clean an set properly so that i can make sure it getting correct fuel?
 
Alright si good explanition i got all that in yellowI:I so are u saying that the needle is on the carbs slide or the throttle slide because if i hit the throttle while the carb is off it will do nothing except move the throttle slide or what ever that is an contract the spring i was messing with it yesterday... an so where is the pilot jet not pilot air screw i got that i need the jet an that needle you refering to is the one i have to make sure is clean an set properly so that i can make sure it getting correct fuel?

Alright, we're on the same page now. I'll continue!

The pilot jet and mainjet are located that the bottom of the "pickup tubes" inside the float bowl. The mainjet is at the bottom of the longest of these tubes, the pilot jet is located down inside the hole next to the mainjet. You need a long straight blade screwdriver with a quite sharp tip in order to unscrew it and remove it.
 
i had one of these pics made a few days ago, for in this thread, but thought we had you straight,
shows the 3 parts your looking for inside the float bowl, followed by whats needed to remove it
here ya go........

33vnosx.jpg
 
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Alright, we're on the same page now. I'll continue!

The pilot jet and mainjet are located that the bottom of the "pickup tubes" inside the float bowl. The mainjet is at the bottom of the longest of these tubes, the pilot jet is located down inside the hole next to the mainjet. You need a long straight blade screwdriver with a quite sharp tip in order to unscrew it and remove it.

ahhh i see now you guys are the bestI:I:D thats why i couldnt find the dam thing its in the hole:eek: i got it now im sorry it took that long... one more question for awk where dio i put that sealant again after i take the reed cage off an wanna reassemble an that needle how do i know its set right? i no people say my needle is like on the second groove or soemthing where should mine be an no one told me is my 230 main good for a stock blaster?
 
needle clip setting on most stock blasters should be in the middle clip position
230 main jet for completely stock blasters, add anything that increases airflow and you'll need to increase the main jet size.... (aftermarket air filters, intakes, pipes ect. ect.)
or at least be checked with a plug chop

light coat of copper perma-gasket on both sides of the gasket between the reeds and cylinder, and i also like a light coat on the intake to reed surface where the stock intake has a built in rubber gasket
 
Not quite. The groove is going to be in your slide, the round cylinder that barely fits in the carb body. The needle, as most people will refer to it, is that long needle that sticks out the bottom of your slide, that you can adjust the clip on. It is just a matter of terminology, but I'm pretty sure you're getting it. Also, to be technical, some guys will call the slide a throttle valve...and that long needle is the valve needle....mostly referred to as the slide and the needle though for simplicity.

By the way, while you're in there, check that clip position. To do that, when you look in the top of your slide...needle is pointing away from you...you will see the clasp that your cable attaches to and a couple small screws. Take those screws out and that clasp will come out...the clasp is made of two pieces (at least mine is), so don't lose them, you will notice when you take it out. Then the needle will slide up out of the slide and on the top you will see the clip. To put it back in, put the needle back, drop your clasp in and rotate so the holes line up and then put your screws in...again, snug. A good screwdriver with slight magnetism will help you with this, put the screws on it then play operation to get the screws down in.

This is what ez told me earlier this is how i would adjust an check clip postion of the needle?
 
yes, they yellow highlighted section above
 
an thanks awk as soon as i order my leaskdown tester an check for leaks i will defintally do a plug chop anyways.. an alright i got is basically on the gaskets on both sides... connecting to the cylender an to the intake. EMPHASIS ON LIGHT COAT so it doesnt suck into my intake 24 hours to cure correct?
 
Alright ill post pilot jet size an the reeed cage is coming off today so ill no pistion cycleder an rign conditions and ill know if my reeds are okay gonna try an post a picture of it this time a couple peoplehave told me how to im gonna try
 
Alright so i been putting the carb on the bike after i work on it cuz everyone uses the garage an i didnt want some one to mess with the carb or lose soomethinge... so last night my dad need the gas can his best freind ran out of gas an he wanted to run his some gas so i poured the rest the gas into my bike an i forgot the gas line was turned on the carb was completely back together an the gas all started flowing out the over flows... what did i do wrong? could the float be stuck open or what?
 
Alright so i been putting the carb on the bike after i work on it cuz everyone uses the garage an i didnt want some one to mess with the carb or lose soomethinge... so last night my dad need the gas can his best freind ran out of gas an he wanted to run his some gas so i poured the rest the gas into my bike an i forgot the gas line was turned on the carb was completely back together an the gas all started flowing out the over flows... what did i do wrong? could the float be stuck open or what?

It sounds like the float is stuck or the needle isn't seating properly. Simple enough fix!

Turn the gas off (obviously) and remove the carburetor once more. Remove the float bowl screws and pull the pin back out of the float.

When you lift the float and float needle out of the seat, you need to inspect the needle tip really well and look down into the seat. If the needle tip has a ring around the rubber part, that could be your problem. If the seat isn't shiny and clean, that could also be your problem.

http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/easy-almost-free-way-stop-leaky-carbs-33335/
 
Si the rubber tip on the needle is good i might have it in there wrong thats what i was thinking either the float or the needle i will give it a go later tonight i had my sisters graduation award ceramony yesterday so i didnt get to do it last night she graduates today but i no ill get it at least tommorrow... so i should make sure the seat it perfectly clean the tip on the needle is perfect an the float is moving up an down i no the float was moving when i put it back together
 
There is a way to see if the needle and seat assembly is leaking.

If you assemble the carb and leave to bowl off, and you put it on the boot and connect up the fuel line.

If you gently put upward pressure on the float and then turn the petcock on, no fuel should run.

Slowly allow the float to drop until fuel flows, then gently lift the float again, the fuel flow should stop.

If the fuel flows when the float is lifted you have a problem with either the needle not seating correctly, or the rubber O ring which fits under the seat is faulty.
 
well the carb didnt leak at all before i undid it to clean it so i kinda think that it might be an issue with the way i put it back together i will do ur test blaaster an i will try an make sure the valve needle seat an floats as well as that o ring are all in good condition.
 
yeah some one else gave me the link there to an i will try the taping first since thats easier but either way im taking the carb back off for the reeds but i did want to have to reopen the carb thanks hoppefully this will be a quick fix
 
I've also had the float pivot pin back out on me once! fixed that with a center punch and light tap after install to seat it in the hole.