how to lower blaster for drag
- Thread starter t&tracing
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I dunno how strong they would be, but use them and extend the swinger, you'd be set. You're not jumping or anything with drag racing, so I'd think those lowerers would work.
I dunno how strong they would be, but use them and extend the swinger, you'd be set. You're not jumping or anything with drag racing, so I'd think those lowerers would work.
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^^^what I was gonna say. Also, reducing the preload on the shocks (spring adjustment) would lower it as well. I have seen shorter drag shocks for sale, too. Since Banshee fronts fit, try searching for Banshee drag shocks on ebay.
Most people chunk suspension all together for drag units. It's easier to change out the entire shock when you want to go back. If you use it only for drag racing, you want want the "shackle" type of lowering kit because that can allow the bottom of the shock to flop a little bit.
Most people remove the shocks and lower the vehicle down to where the suspension is totally flat. Using a jack to support the center skid plate you can adjust the height to get it as low as possible without the frame actually touching the ground. Then measure the distance between the shock mounting eyes and cut a piece of 1" square tubing to length to fit.
Once the front is sitting down with no suspension, you can lower the rear doing almost the same thing. There is one more consideration with the rear end though, you need to make sure that the chain isn't put in a bind by lowering it too much.
Most people remove the shocks and lower the vehicle down to where the suspension is totally flat. Using a jack to support the center skid plate you can adjust the height to get it as low as possible without the frame actually touching the ground. Then measure the distance between the shock mounting eyes and cut a piece of 1" square tubing to length to fit.
Once the front is sitting down with no suspension, you can lower the rear doing almost the same thing. There is one more consideration with the rear end though, you need to make sure that the chain isn't put in a bind by lowering it too much.
ummmm..... I wouldn't recommend it. Just leave the shocks in for now and once you've sized the tubing ( I believe it's 1" that fits you'll need measure it before you purchase square tubing) take the shocks off and drill the boll holes out to the correct length and cut it to length to fit.
yeah just make struts for it, if you want the stance to look like this i will measure mine for ya and you can just cut some the same length I:I
i think my stance is perfect, the rear is a tiny bit higher. I:I and the front a arms are parallel to the ground
i dont want a negative angle on my front ball joints though, i would liek to build a whole rear drag skid, with liek a +8 swinger, short stock axle and mabey a 42 tooth sprocket. then all i would have to do is slide it into place when it was time to race.
ok just for referance my rear strut measures 14.5" overall with 13.5" eye centers and the fronts are 12.5" overall with 11.5" eye centers
weeeeeeell i called them go kart tires when i go to the asphalt track lolol I:I but they are brand new 4ply so they are safe (buddie had them on a broken one sitting behing his garage) and actually do a real good job hahaa but ummmm yea guilty as charged
i jsut dont go enough to justify buying new tires for asphalt lolI'm not knocking.... whatever works! I was just curious about launch with those. Turf tires usually have a much harder compound than necessary for good hook-up. Do you do a burn-out or just go at them cold?
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