how does my plug look ?
- Thread starter heatlbj6
- Start date
that plugs been run for a while, not just one WOT plug chop, and thats all that determines anything.
and you have to cut the threads off for us to see the smoke ring, after 1 WOT plug chop run.
any of the 3 jetting ranges could have colored that plug.
so 1 could be rich, and the others lean, and still look OK like that one does.
but you and I know we worked down to the 270 main, and should be good.
and you have to cut the threads off for us to see the smoke ring, after 1 WOT plug chop run.
any of the 3 jetting ranges could have colored that plug.
so 1 could be rich, and the others lean, and still look OK like that one does.
but you and I know we worked down to the 270 main, and should be good.
you cannot, shall not, will not...... warm the bike up nor ride it to where you do the 1-5/6 WOT run.
you have to warm the bike up on an old plug, ride to your spot, then switch in the new plug, run 1-5/6 wide open, hold it there for at least 10+ seconds or longer, pull the clutch while at WOT and kill the engine, remove that plug, apply brakes firmly to get stopped asap and not weld a clutch ball, replace with the old plug for the ride back home, then cut the threads off to see the smoke ring down near the bottom of the porcelien.
read this again, and follow exactly........
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/how-plug-chop-53237/
you have to warm the bike up on an old plug, ride to your spot, then switch in the new plug, run 1-5/6 wide open, hold it there for at least 10+ seconds or longer, pull the clutch while at WOT and kill the engine, remove that plug, apply brakes firmly to get stopped asap and not weld a clutch ball, replace with the old plug for the ride back home, then cut the threads off to see the smoke ring down near the bottom of the porcelien.
read this again, and follow exactly........
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/how-plug-chop-53237/
not a dumbass, just new to this, thats where BF comes in.
a dumbass assumes he knows everything, ignores sound advice and fries his shizzle, you haven't done that............... yet
Here this should explain it for you.
Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.
WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/
This is a good to go plug.
This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.
You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.
Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.
The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet curcuit.
I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.
If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.
Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.
WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/
This is a good to go plug.
This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.
You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.
Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.
The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet curcuit.
I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.
If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.
If you are not able to cut the plug, you will not be able to read the smoke ring.
A thing for you to do would be fit a #290 main and see how it performs.
If it babbles , or burbles and sounds like a 4 stroke (like when you leave the choke on when it is warm), reduce the main until it pulls strongly to the top of the powerband.
This is no way a perfect way of confirming the jetting as it usually leaves you on the rich side.
There again too rich is better than slightly lean.
If anyone asks who told you to confirm jetting the above way, I will deny typing it.
A thing for you to do would be fit a #290 main and see how it performs.
If it babbles , or burbles and sounds like a 4 stroke (like when you leave the choke on when it is warm), reduce the main until it pulls strongly to the top of the powerband.
This is no way a perfect way of confirming the jetting as it usually leaves you on the rich side.
There again too rich is better than slightly lean.
If anyone asks who told you to confirm jetting the above way, I will deny typing it.
we have already been thru this in PM's and have worked down thru a 300 -280 still bogged.
he threw the 270 in and it ripped, literally......
ripped his chain in 1/2 I:I
to tell the truth i dont even plug chop, i have not a place to do it anywear. i do the bogging method. i through a super rich jet in and again and again untill it runs good. usuualy one under bogging
I tell you good sir when there is no vice use vice grips and a good tight c clamp then a hack saw or a dremil
So, no one has ever seen Jack Roush, or a top fuel crew cheif "looking" at a plug? They don't "cut" them. They use an eye piece. You could use a magnifying glass. Run plug same as for plug chop, then look down in there for smoke ring. As a matter of fact, I have never cut a plug. Read them like a book. I have a lighted mag glass I goy at a local shop. Google Image Result for http://www.dragracingonline.com/itsnew/images/2012/Powerhouse-Spark-Plug-Viewer.jpg That's ^^^ not what I have, but gives you an idea.
I'll second that! I've never cut up a perfectly good plug to read it....EVER
I have no problem reading a spark plug without chopping it. Cutting up a perfectly new plug makes no sense to me. There's no need for it. It makes it easier to show pictures of it on the internet,but its not necessary to cut up a spark plug to read it.
I take out the plug,and angle it,so I can get natural,full spectrum sun light down in the plug,and I can see the same thing everybody else sees when they hack up they're plug with a saw or dremel.
Never had an issue doing it the way I do it.
As a matter of fact,I don't have a clue who started it,and for what reason other than to show pictures of it.
I've been reading plugs ACCURATELY my way for over 35 years.
I learned with something like this : NGK Spark Plugs USA
Here is one from ultra light forum, 2s rotax powered : Reading Spark Plugs
One more for the heck of it : Spark Plug Analysis
Now I do believe that a WOT run through the gears, then " CHOPPING" the throttle will give you a good indication of jetting. And untill you are comfortable with your ability to "read" a plug, by all means continue chopping plugs.
This here is real simular to what I have :Carson LumiPop Pocket Magnifier
Another reason to learn to read plugs is so after a ride or several you pop the plug and get a good overall idea of how it's running, or especially if you developed a sudden problem. If you developed an air leak the last thing you would want to do is rip it WOT to 6th gear.
Also, the cutting technique might be something that was started by those that run on the ragged edge drag racing where they tune to the leanest they dare run for the few seconds that they run WOT.
JMHO your results may, and will vary. I am not responsible or liable if they do.
LIFE is a learning process. I:I
Here is one from ultra light forum, 2s rotax powered : Reading Spark Plugs
One more for the heck of it : Spark Plug Analysis
Now I do believe that a WOT run through the gears, then " CHOPPING" the throttle will give you a good indication of jetting. And untill you are comfortable with your ability to "read" a plug, by all means continue chopping plugs.
This here is real simular to what I have :Carson LumiPop Pocket Magnifier
Another reason to learn to read plugs is so after a ride or several you pop the plug and get a good overall idea of how it's running, or especially if you developed a sudden problem. If you developed an air leak the last thing you would want to do is rip it WOT to 6th gear.
Also, the cutting technique might be something that was started by those that run on the ragged edge drag racing where they tune to the leanest they dare run for the few seconds that they run WOT.
JMHO your results may, and will vary. I am not responsible or liable if they do.
LIFE is a learning process. I:I
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Like I said before... I have no problem reading the "smoke ring" all WITHOUT cutting up a spark plug.
Like I said before... I have no problem reading the "smoke ring" all WITHOUT cutting up a spark plug.
i've never cut one either, ever.
but it may make it easier for a newbie trying to learn this from a bunch of guys over the internet ?
and allow them to share pictures of their colors with us.
