High Idle problems.

[jerry7297]

Okay guys, I bought a rebuild kit for my carb. Installed everything and could not get the quad to start....

I then took a carb off my other blaster and put it on the one I had been working on. All checked out good, I got that one dialed in. No issues.

I put the carb I was having problems with on my 110% good running blaster and it was overflowing. I took care of that by adjusting the float and cleaning the seat. Now the idle is getting out of control when you have it in gear and you pull the clutch. I thought it was the top gasket (carb) letting in air, so I replaced that. It is still doing it. I checked for air leaks and didn't find anything. Anyone have any ideas??? Keep in mind I am pretty sure it is a carb problem cause that is ALL I touched on this specific quad.

 

[jbuckster07]

Almost 100% positive that a out of control idle is signs of an air leak. How did you check for leaks? did you use an actual tester or just visually inspect it.

 

[jerry7297]

Visually and a spray bottle. It has to be the carb, or at one of those connections. Do you think it could be a TORs problem? Maybe one of those wires got pulled on too much. TORs is still on the quad.

 

[jbuckster07]

Visually and a spray bottle.

Are you actually using a air leak tester to pump the case up with 6-7 PSI, watching the gauge to see if it loses any pressure, THEN using a spray bottle to find the leak?????

Do you think it could be a TORs problem? Maybe one of those wires got pulled on too much. TORs is still on the quad.

TORS stands for Throttle Override System. It is a series of electrical switches on the quad which work together to shut off spark if the throttle accidentally gets stuck open. The TORS does NOT have any affect on fuel delivery to or from the carburetor. There is also a microswitch on the parking brake, which works with the TORS system to prevent the engine from revving past idle if the parking brake is left on.

Based on that information - a high idle or runaway idle is not a tors issue.

 

[jerry7297]

No I do not have a kit to pressure up the case. But as said before it is almost 100% a carb problem not a leak in the case. All I did was change carbs. Before that it was just fine. Sounds like I should do a leak down test as well, I am not sure.

 

[jbuckster07]

Hey if you are 100% sure its a carb problem, why post asking questions looking for help?

 

[jerry7297]

Hey if you are 100% sure its a carb problem, why post asking questions looking for help?

HUH exactly what you said.... Looking for help. I stated in the 1st post details of what was going on. I said this specific quad was working 110% good before the carb swap. Thank you for your help. I was looking for suggestions / help at what may be going on with the carb.

 

[230blaster]

HUH exactly what you said.... Looking for help. I stated in the 1st post details of what was going on. I said this specific quad was working 110% good before the carb swap. Thank you for your help. I was looking for suggestions / help at what may be going on with the carb.

Are you saying it's a different idle when it's in neutral than when it's in gear with the clutch pulled in?

 

[jerry7297]

If I start and it is idling its all good. Then get going and just say your in 2nd and pull the clutch in it starts revving higher and higher. This is why I thought it was the top seal on the carb. I replaced that gasket but it still goes up slowly still. It slowly lowers when you let the clutch out....

 

[Larry's Shee]

Did this kit come with jets? Did you compare numbers on them? Are they genuine Mikuni? Set the float height?
As to TORS, get rid of it. Parking brake too.

 

[Awk08]

as stated....you checked the new jet #'s to the originals ?
clean and put the originals back in

32.5 pilot ?
brass washer back under main jet ?
float height 20 - 21.5mm ?
airscrew around 1.5 turns out to start ?
cleaned all orifices of carb with carb cleaner and compreesor air blowed thru ?

all of those have "pinned" help threads at the top of the carb section
http://www.blasterforum.com/forums/carburetor.138/

 

[jerry7297]

All stock jets. I did adjust the float. It was at a bad height. I will be removing TORS, I will look into the parking brake.

 

[jerry7297]

as stated....you checked the new jet #'s to the originals ?
clean and put the originals back in

32.5 pilot ?
brass washer back under main jet ?
float height 20 - 21.5mm ?
airscrew around 1.5 turns out to start ?
cleaned all orifices of carb with carb cleaner and compreesor air blowed thru ?

all of those have "pinned" help threads at the top of the carb section
http://www.blasterforum.com/forums/carburetor.138/

All but the air blew through the carb. I will clean again and clean the stock jets. I still have them all, then blow the air through. I will be going through all the pinned threads. Thank you for the reply.

 

[230blaster]

All but the air blew through the carb. I will clean again and clean the stock jets. I still have them all, then blow the air through. I will be going through all the pinned threads. Thank you for the reply.

You definitely have a lean air mixture, have you adjusted your screw on the side of the carb?

 

[82cutty]

Is this running on pre-mix or is the oil injection still hooked up ? If pre-mix check the oil injection nipple on the carb...right side of bike . Make sure it's capped off that will cause an air leak .

 

[230blaster]

Is this running on pre-mix or is the oil injection still hooked up ? If pre-mix check the oil injection nipple on the carb...right side of bike . Make sure it's capped off that will cause an air leak .

If you're running premix and you don't have that cap it will definitely cause that. It probably is clogged with crap and when you go at higher rpm and is getting unclogged and is letting air in more. If that's the case just use a closet rack cover that covers up sharp edges. I did that and it's a perfect fit and seal

 

[jerry7297]

Running oil injection still on this quad. I plan on removing it soon and I have the vacuum seal nipples. I will try to go through this carb again today thoroughly.

 

[joeak47]

Okay guys, I bought a rebuild kit for my carb.

Carb kits come with a new needle and seat, which is the most important part in the kit.
You stated that you "cleaned" the needle and seat. Do you mean you replaced it?

When removing and installing the carb, its easy to create a leak when swapping carbs. Sometimes issues like are a simple matter to find, and sometimes not.

Also, This also sounds like an air leak to me too.
Are you using a carb spacer of any kind?
Did you remove the reed block to remove or install the carb (those gaskets can leak)?
Does the carb mounting boot have any cracks in the rubber (that's a sneaky one)?

I would do a quick and easy leak down test on that engine before you proceed, that way you don't fry that engine. You'll thank yourself later.


Good luck.

 

[jerry7297]

Carb kits come with a new needle and seat, which is the most important part in the kit.
You stated that you "cleaned" the needle and seat. Do you mean you replaced it?

When removing and installing the carb, its easy to create a leak when swapping carbs. Sometimes issues like are a simple matter to find, and sometimes not.

Also, This also sounds like an air leak to me too.
Are you using a carb spacer of any kind?
Did you remove the reed block to remove or install the carb (those gaskets can leak)?
Does the carb mounting boot have any cracks in the rubber (that's a sneaky one)?

I would do a quick and easy leak down test on that engine before you proceed, that way you don't fry that engine. You'll thank yourself later.


Good luck.

Man this has been a PAIN in the ASS. I went a head I did replaced the Needle. No spacer installed. I did not remove the Reeds. I did make sure all that was rechecked for torque. The mounting rubber boot is crack free.

I removed TORS, just cause and recleaned all jets and even replaced the main with the OG jet that I cleaned up. NOTHING, still same dang problem.

Then I went a head and swapped the carbs between the 2 blasters again. The problem follows the bad carb and the good carb works great on the other Blaster. At this point I am going to order another float cause this one seems to be a little worn, and possibly a new rebuild kit. Thinking of trying the kit from Moose racing and start from scratch. Disclosure- I did the EXACT same thing to the carb that is working good. Same rebuild kit and all. This carb is unrealistic at this point, it has to be something small just not working correctly.

 

[joeak47]

Perhaps its possessed?
You could try swapping the floats.
Is there any cracks in the carb body?

Let me do some thinking on this.