HELP WITH TORS REMOVAL

Holtergeist

Member
Apr 17, 2015
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Baldwinsville, N.Y.
ok so I figured I had watched enough videos and read enough from the forums that I figured I could remove my tors and the thing would fire up......well that's not the case. I went to town on the wire harness snipping off all the tors components. Now my blaster doesn't fire up. I did the tors delete on the he carb with new idle screw and new throttle cable and cap rejected it to stock and now my blaster doesn't fire up it will run for a second then die out.....what or where did I go wrong. Please help my sanity is slowing slipping because of this and I need throttle therapy :)
 
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What year is your Blaster. On 02 and older you only need to unplug the brain under the hood.

Perhaps you snipped a wire that did not need to be cut.
 
did you follow the tors removal for your year ?

88-02 must unplug the brain under the hood
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-remove-your-tors.655/

03-06 must splice wires at the CDI/TORS unit under hood
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/03-06-tors-removal-diy.41973/


did you file the boss down far enuf to allow the new idle screw to lift the slide far enuf to idle correctly ?
this is common when doing the tors idle screw, you have to file it down more than the directions make it sound.
 
What year is your Blaster. On 02 and older you only need to unplug the brain under the hood.

Perhaps you snipped a wire that did not need to be cut.


It's an 01 but it's kind of a frankenbike I also just found out from another post on this forum that another person bought a carb from the same person on ebay same thing stock carb with tors removal kit and his blaster is having the same problems idk where to start
 
Scrpe gme crzy......where did you buy your carb I bought the same exact carb off eBay for 147
or did you sell it to me my blaster does not fire up now and I need help
ok so I figured I had watched enough videos and read enough from the forums that I figured I could remove my tors and the thing would fire up......well that's not the case. I went to town on the wire harness snipping off all the tors components. Now my blaster doesn't fire up. I did the tors delete on the he carb with new idle screw and new throttle cable and cap rejected it to stock and now my blaster doesn't fire up it will run for a second then die out.....what or where did I go wrong. Please help my sanity is slowing slipping because of this and I need help. Is it the carb the person I got it off of messed it up or idk I'm at a loss of ideas now


What year is your Blaster? if it is 03+ you can't just "clip" all TORS wires you need to splice them together at the CDI under the hood. The carb should work just fine as long as all the parts are there, have you taken it apart to see which Jets are in it ? or if it has a jet at all? when you push the throttle you see the slide moving up and down? remove the inline filter and go straight from the petcock to the tank.
 
did you follow the tors removal for your year ?

88-02 must unplug the brain under the hood
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-remove-your-tors.655/

03-06 must splice wires at the CDI/TORS unit under hood
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/03-06-tors-removal-diy.41973/


did you file the boss down far enuf to allow the new idle screw to lift the slide far enuf to idle correctly ?
this is common when doing the tors idle screw, you have to file it down more than the directions make it sound.


Yes I followed all the directions with how to take out my tors but I cut out all the plugs and what is the boss the idle screw or the nut holding the idle screw
 
What year is your Blaster? if it is 03+ you can't just "clip" all TORS wires you need to splice them together at the CDI under the hood. The carb should work just fine as long as all the parts are there, have you taken it apart to see which Jets are in it ? or if it has a jet at all? when you push the throttle you see the slide moving up and down? remove the inline filter and go straight from the petcock to the tank.



It's an 01 but kind of a Franken bike and no I didn't check i assumed because it said in the ad on ebay it was jetted to stock specs
 
Yes I followed all the directions with how to take out my tors but I cut out all the plugs and what is the boss the idle screw or the nut holding the idle screw

you can indeed cut out all wiring to the throttle and carb switches,
once the tors brain is removed (88-02) or disabled (03-06) none of the wiring or switches matter, as they are no longer being monitored.


if you removed the tors brick from atop the carb, you must add a new idel screw to the fuel inlet side of the carb body to hold the slide open enuf to start and idle.
 
you can indeed cut out all wiring to the throttle and carb switches,
once the tors brain is removed (88-02) or disabled (03-06) none of the wiring or switches matter, as they are no longer being monitored.


if you removed the tors brick from atop the carb, you must add a new idel screw to the fuel inlet side of the carb body to hold the slide open enuf to start and idle.


Yes I know this I made sure to take every step but I bought the carb with the idle screw and cap on carb where the tors goes and now my blaster doesn't start that's my problem a person with the name scrpe_gme_crzy bought a carb from the same person same set up so posed and his blaster is having the same problem I emailed the person I bought it off of on ebay asking for a refund
 
What is the air screw I'm new to this this is my first blaster/atv and for the idle screw I do believe so I checked the lifter when I received the carb I nbc the mail and it didn't seem to seat all the way there was a little gap
 
So would I have to adjust my idle screw maybe?

That's very probable, if this guy is selling multiple carbs with the tors delete kits installed, chances are he's buying the carbs used, throwing the kits on and never even installing them to tune them.
Trust no one.....means comletely clean the carb, check what size and individually clean the jets, set float height, and adjust airscrew < all of those have pinned threads at the top of the carb section.

Also...nobody can sale you a carb tuned for your exact bike, location and/or elevation. That is up to you.....of course with our help along the way if needed.
So get that carb opened and cleaned, then report back with pilot/main jet sizes, float height and if the new idle screw is opening the slide ?
 
You can try adjusting the idle screw, but like stated it may not be long enough to do anything. You can file the boss down more yourself. Turn the screw in and out and look to see if it is moving the slide at all.

What is sellers name so others can be avoid the same issue.
 
That's very probable, if this guy is selling multiple carbs with the tors delete kits installed, chances are he's buying the carbs used, throwing the kits on and never even installing them to tune them.
Trust no one.....means comletely clean the carb, check what size and individually clean the jets, set float height, and adjust airscrew < all of those have pinned threads at the top of the carb section.

Also...nobody can sale you a carb tuned for your exact bike, location and/or elevation. That is up to you.....of course with our help along the way if needed.
So get that carb opened and cleaned, then report back with pilot/main jet sizes, float height and if the new idle screw is opening the slide ?

When I emailed the seller of the carb he said I would be able to get a refund. Would it be better to do all those steps all fix this carb or buy a new carb...also I was told when buying my blaster it had the 240bbk In it is the stock carb good or get my money back and buy a better carb? I don't have a problem getting this carb apart and doing what's needed but if I should buy a new one I will when I get he refund
 
It is an easy fix if it is just not filed down enough. All you will need is a file. You want to also open that carb anways to see what the jetting is at. Also did it come with a new needle. Use your stock needle not aftermarket. If you can post a pic of the intake (looking from the side) we may be able to help you determin if it is actually an aftermarket 240.
 
It is an easy fix if it is just not filed down enough. All you will need is a file. You want to also open that carb anways to see what the jetting is at. Also did it come with a new needle. Use your stock needle not aftermarket. If you can post a pic of the intake (looking from the side) we may be able to help you determin if it is actually an aftermarket 240.

Needle? Sorry I'm new to this and getting help from my friends and you guys as I go along. And I can get s pic up here later this afternoon. And thanks guys appreciate the help
 
The needle is in the carb slide. Did it come with the slide or you used your own?
 
On page one speedyslyder circled the the air screw on the pic you posted, its possible he had it turned all the way in for shipping so it didn't come out. if it is all the way tight back it out 1.5 turns and turn the idle screw in a little then try starting it. also crack the drain screw to make sure theres good gas flow.