help please? many questions

Aug 4, 2011
127
3
44
Elkhart,IN
ok so first off i think i attached the photo no sure if it worked what is the gold bolt spot for and what is the size. ( the gold bolt i put in so you can see where it is) now second problem my blaster has no spark:eek: i have checked wires and its not a bad ground or anything like that anyhelp is appreciatedI:I
 

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Yes the picture was attached but I can't open it because my media center is all screwed up right now. But as for the spark, try a new plug and see what happens.
 
copy and pasted from brandoz i think ????...............

Electrical problems suck. Your intermittent spark problem is quite likely due to a bad ignition coil. Many times, the high-tension lead (heavy wire that goes from the coil to the spark plug) develops an internal break. Coils can also develop an internal short or open circuit. Either of these faults will result in an intermittent spark at the plug. The coil only fires when the bad connection happens to be made. Which isn't very often, as I'm sure your exhausted right leg can attest.
Do this: Turn the keyed ignition switch (if used) and handlebar switches 'ON'. Unhook the spark plug wire from the plug and remove the spark plug from the engine. Next, find that one-and-only orange wire that attaches to the coil. Unplug it, and go get your 12V test light. (You can buy one for about $ 15.00 or less at the local auto parts store, or Sears, or....).
Stab the plug on the orange coil wire with the pointed end of your test light. Ground the other end of the test light (with the wire/clamp) out against the engine. Be sure you have a SECURE connection. Now, kick the engine over and watch the test light. The bulb in the test light should blink once for every revolution the engine makes. In other words, the light should flash 'in sync' with the rotations of the crankshaft. This test will tell you whether or not you're getting the required 12 volt 'signal' from the CDI box to the coil every time the piston reaches TDC. If the light blinks steadily, replace your coil. It is defective. The CDI box is sending its 12V pulse to the coil, as it should, but the coil is unable to properly transform it.
Nothing, or an inconsistent blink of the test light, indicates that your ignition coil is not recieving its proper trigger pulse from the other components of the bike's ignition system. Time to pull out the ohm meter and do some resistance checks on the exciter and trigger coils. I'd also test the ignition coil for good measure, just to be sure that it is indeed still good. If these coils test OK (see a Clymer manual for the resistence specs), all connections are clean/tight, and you can't find any bare wires that are accidentally touching the frame, replace your CDI box. It can be ruled faulty if everything else in the ignition system tests good.
 
Start by double checking that ALL connections are clean and tight, same with grounds are clean, bare metal including coil. Is TORS "brain" diconnected? Parking brake switch? On/off/key switches working correct? Ohm coil, Stator? Try cutting 1/4" off plug wire and putting plug cap back on.
 
have tors hooked up and yea always been the only wat i know to see if it is a bad plug.and thanks awk that was some very usfull information i will be sure to try and report back the outcome only problem is i wont be able to test till tommorow but will post as soon as i find out ty guys very much and any idea on bolt?
 
did you test the correct wires coming out of the stator for the source coil ????

heres the downloadable manual, the electrical troubleshooting starts on page 202
it guides you thru a similar testing as i posted above, with color codes

http://www.rydindirty.com/blastermanual.pdf
 
So you are saying that the stator, pick-up coil, ignition coil, and plug cap ALL ohm to within specifications??? ALL connections are clean, shiny, corrosion free and tight? ALL grounds are clean, bare metal and tight? You unplugged TORS "brain" box to eliminate the possibility that it is not malfunctioning? You ohmed both switches in both on AND off posistion? (Don't remember if they are normally open or normally closed switches). You have checked every inch of ALL wires for either a break or bare spot? If and only if you have done/tried ALL suggestions/tests then that would leave only cdi unit.

Oh wait, there is the possibility of a bad/loose flywheel (rattleing magnets) or excessive rust on stator poles.

Never did say if this is a "new" build or it ran but now doesn't?
 
The way I tested stator was I took ground /black wire and made a groung that I tested to work I then proceeded to use my test light to probe the wire while turning motor over and never got any. Power out of any of wires coming from stator...sorry for not specifying this is a new build I have never herds it run
 
Only proper way to test the stator and PUcoil is to test the ohm resistance of them. Same with coil. Either use a Clymers or there is a download manual somewhere on this site. It will tell you test procedure and ohm values for all units.

Very high values indicates either wires melted together or short to ground, no ohm value indicates broken wire.

Just have to keep at it, took me1 1/2 days to find a short on my son's F Ranger.
 
the test procedures starting on page 202 in the manual call for testing between 2 wires at a time, not one to ground
alot of us on here have come up with diffferent ohms readings that the manual states, but the coils were still good
i'd try a test light across the color wires stated in the manual
(white/red stripe and solid black wires)

if test light doesnt light, i'd lean toward bad source coil/trigger
 
correct me if im wrong but arnt the ground wires for the blaster black? also could someone possably give me a wire diagram for the bad boy so i know what wires are what?
 
well just got done testing all resistances and everythings checked out except for the coil it tested weird the promiary was ok but not the secodary coil it just read 1 and never changed is this possible? also the spark plug boot did the same thing
 
well think i found it its the spark plug boot i tested it as the manual explaines ground to the screw on the boot and hot inside the boot well i never got the multimeter to do anthing i switched hot and neg just to make sure and still nothing i looked inside it and seen that there was rust on it so i think i need a new boot right?
 
Maybe not, try trimming 1/4" off plug wire and re-install boot might get lucky. That is unless you were testing from one side of boot to other. Boots are <10$