HELP! Engine idles high then bogs down

nope, pull the line and block it with an 1/8" vaccuum cap, it'll suck air thru a dry pump.

and thats a little excessive on the copper rtv on the intake gasket, you sure none got in and holding a reed pedal open ?
use less next time :)

unplug the tors @ the brain under the hood, i see it still connected at the carb

what airscrew setting ?
needle clip position ?
Do you know exactly what wires to disconnect?
 
Do you know exactly what wires to disconnect?

sure do, 2 black boxes under the hood, the cdi has 5 wires, the tors box has 3,
unplug the white 3 wire connector right near the tors box and walaa....no more tors system.


IF, you're mixng your oil/fuel ?
32:1 with a good oil ?
and....
get that oil injection line blocked off at the brass nipple on the carb.
you can cut that line about an inch away from carb, little squirt of that copper rtv into it and insert a tight screw for now.
an 1/8" vaccuum cap is best
 
Turn your idle up a little also, if it is idling slow/low, it will die after a little bit of time. I had mine that low on my old blaster
 
well you did some of the things suggest next is your gaskets, also if you got aftermarket pipe you need to modify the air box ,you can take the lid off and or drill holes in it and put breather plugs.I have toomey exhaust and it ill not run right with air box lid on or drilled out
 
other things that cant hurt to check is loosen the gas cap to see if it is breathing properly and take that air box lid off,start your quad and try to adjust the idle which is under the seat next to gas tank and check the air screw by your gas line connect to your carb adjust these while it is running turn idle up by turning clockwise, air screw will give less air by turning clockwise and more air by turning counter clockwise your engine speed will change as you turn these screws give it a few seconds between each change to catch up report back.:cool:
 
other things that cant hurt to check is loosen the gas cap to see if it is breathing properly and take that air box lid off,start your quad and try to adjust the idle which is under the seat next to gas tank and check the air screw by your gas line connect to your carb adjust these while it is running turn idle up by turning clockwise, air screw will give less air by turning clockwise and more air by turning counter clockwise your engine speed will change as you turn these screws give it a few seconds between each change to catch up report back.:cool:
Already tried adjusting all of that
 
The key is with the stator and flywheel. I beleive it also has somthing to do with revving but someone will correct me if im wrong. I still think the air leak is causing it.
 
Not sure what u mean by needle clip position

have you ever cleaned the carb ?
the needle is down in the slide from the top, it has clip positions that can be changed, it needs to be in the middle slot
 
were not giving up on you yet lol. did you ever find that broken reed?? there is so much info on this blaster forum maybe look it over long enough and you'll find the culprit.
 
were not giving up on you yet lol. did you ever find that broken reed?? there is so much info on this blaster forum maybe look it over long enough and you'll find the culprit.
No it was a small piece of the reed that broke. I assume it was spit out the exhaust. I have read so many threads on here and tried so many different things and nothing has work. The only difference i got is when i changed my reeds.
 
A few things need to be tidied up.

Is the engine proven to be air tight, it must be leak free before any adjustments can be made or you will chase your tail until you disappear up your own orifice.

For only 6 hours of riding there seems to be a crap load of carbon hanging in the exhaust port.

Never use any sealant on a copper head gasket, it will give you a false sense of security. Soft copper gaskets need no help in sealing good mating surfaces.

If you use the green/blue base gaskets you are asking for trouble as the majority has been known to leak.

There is no need to take the lid off, or modify the air box, if you have the correct jetting it will run perfectly with it on.

If the brass washer is not under the main jet, adjusting the idle and up to 1/4 throttle will be hard to get correct.

Idle adjusting.

Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain when the screw is cracked open.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .