Using starter fluids such as ether based or any starter fluid made for starting 4 stroke engines will cause severe damage to a two stroke motor. Normal engine starter fluid should not be used in a two stroke is because it does not contain enough lubricating properties to protect the piston and cylinder walls. A 4-stroke engine gets oil from the crank case and it is moved up and down on the cylinder walls to keep it lubricated. Every upward motion a piston makes in a 4-stroke engine carries oil to the cylinder walls to lube the piston and cylinder; this means the engine is automatically lubricated so when you spray starter fluid in to start the motor the cylinder walls have oil on them. Two strokes are lubed by a gas and oil mixture, they do not have oil in their crank case so if you don’t have gas and oil mixed to start the engine you will not have lubrication between the piston and cylinder walls, this will cause major scoring on the pistons and the cylinders. In conclusion, use only WD40 as a starter fluid for your two stroke engines. It contains enough petroleum in its formula to protect your engine on start up.
gets spark but will not start
- Thread starter twiztid1
- Start date
Using starter fluids such as ether based or any starter fluid made for starting 4 stroke engines will cause severe damage to a two stroke motor. Normal engine starter fluid should not be used in a two stroke is because it does not contain enough lubricating properties to protect the piston and cylinder walls. A 4-stroke engine gets oil from the crank case and it is moved up and down on the cylinder walls to keep it lubricated. Every upward motion a piston makes in a 4-stroke engine carries oil to the cylinder walls to lube the piston and cylinder; this means the engine is automatically lubricated so when you spray starter fluid in to start the motor the cylinder walls have oil on them. Two strokes are lubed by a gas and oil mixture, they do not have oil in their crank case so if you don’t have gas and oil mixed to start the engine you will not have lubrication between the piston and cylinder walls, this will cause major scoring on the pistons and the cylinders. In conclusion, use only WD40 as a starter fluid for your two stroke engines. It contains enough petroleum in its formula to protect your engine on start up.
This could go on like an oil or pipe thread.
It's starting fluid not running fluid. A one second blast on the air filter is all that should be needed. There is plenty of residual oil in the engine. You are only talking enough "extra" juice for a few power strokes. Not that I read every can, but all that I have say for 2 or 4 stroke. I have seen starting fluid that does have oil in the formula.
Op, I would not get a rebuild kit unless you need most/all of the parts in it. Most have jets that don't wear out or if you have any mods would be wrong anyhow. Another :http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/easy-and-almost-free-way-to-stop-leaky-carbs.33335/. This works very good
If your float needle is bad, very hard tip or has grooves, replace it.
Thank you. You get it lol. It's not like your engine is instantly dry as soon as you turn it off
im assuming you cant check your flywheel for proper alignment,but thhe woodruff keys that align the flywheel to stat
or break all the time and,then you end up getting bad timing,meaning it sparks at wrong time. it just aligns it but it can move the flywheel out of whack on some occasions
An engine needs 3 things to start.
1. Compression.
2. Spark at the correct time.
3. Fuel in the right quantity.
If you need starting fluid to coax the engine into life then you have a fuel problem that should be addressed.
If you need to spray anything into the intake to assist starting there is a product that is called Gasolene, you mix it with a 2 stroke oil at a ratio of 32/1, put it in an atomiser and spray that into the intake.
1. Compression.
2. Spark at the correct time.
3. Fuel in the right quantity.
If you need starting fluid to coax the engine into life then you have a fuel problem that should be addressed.
If you need to spray anything into the intake to assist starting there is a product that is called Gasolene, you mix it with a 2 stroke oil at a ratio of 32/1, put it in an atomiser and spray that into the intake.
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no, absolutely not
PB is acid based.
i wouldn't use starter fluid, as if it doesn't start immedietly, you just washed all the lubrication from the cylinder walls and bearings.
wd-40 is a water displacer, not a lubricant. show me any product that recommends lubrication with it ?
plus it eats away plastics
just fix the thing properly and skip any starting fluids, getting it started on them proves or disproves nothing at all
make sure you take the jets out and soak them in car cleaner ,dont just spray carb cleaner on them with them left in carb,It wont work not the best example but you need summin simular to this size to get pilot out
not the best example but you need summin simular to this size to get pilot out Does it have to be that long? i have some pretty small ones for glasses but they aren't as long.make sure you take the jets out and soak them in car cleaner ,dont just spray carb cleaner on them with them left in carb,It wont work
wd-40 is a water displacer, not a lubricant. show me any product that recommends lubrication with it ?
plus it eats away plastics
Good point. I heard of people using it but I haven't. I've always injected a little mix threw the plug hole.
plus it eats away plastics
Good point. I heard of people using it but I haven't. I've always injected a little mix threw the plug hole.
on this diagram am i supposed to take off the thing off top of the carb and clean it as well?
assuming you mean the "tors" unit ?......no, let it alone, or replace it with a tors delete kit
seeing how your new to it just take boots off carb dold carb in hand unscew bottom of carb 4 screws pull off bowl take i believe a 6mm socket unscrew main jet,plus plastic piece then washer after that take flat head screw drive on left side hold carb in hand unscrew pilot it is way up there soak those two small jets in carb cleaner in a cup or something,spray carb cleaner everywhere you can with carb hanging there clean float bowl while its off meaning the thing you just took of lol
clean float bowl while its off meaning the thing you just took of lolI've got the whole carb off the bike and working on getting it cleaned i just didnt know about the top part the "tors" unit but i guess i'm going to invest in a tors delete kit. Oh i did take a flashlight to look at the reed and the look like they are still intact no broken or any cracks that i can tell of. Should i just take out the reed cage to look at them a little better?seeing how your new to it just take boots off carb dold carb in hand unscew bottom of carb 4 screws pull off bowl take i believe a 6mm socket unscrew main jet,plus plastic piece then washer after that take flat head screw drive on left side hold carb in hand unscrew pilot it is way up there soak those two small jets in carb cleaner in a cup or something,spray carb cleaner everywhere you can with carb hanging there
its really hard to see them without taking off but if you do make sure you seal it good they tend to air leak alot there,also torque those reed bolts to spec i think it is 5.8 lbs but everyone has a different number it seems.any hoot it is not very tight
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Made the correction for ya, diagonally and incrementally!its really hard to see them without taking off but if you do make sure you seal it good they tend to air leak alot there,also torque those reed bolts to spec i think it is 5.8 ft lbs but everyone has a different number it seems.any hoot it is not very tight
If you pull them down to 7.5 ft lbs you will warp the reed cage and it could leak.
