Get my Carb right!

blooper

Member
Nov 30, 2014
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Twentynine Palms, CA
As some of you have read in my previous posts the engine I had that had a crackn in the bottom end. New engine now bored over .40 new weisco piston rings as well as crank. Intake ported pretty aggresive and exhaust port to match flush. Now the bike still has the Kiehin 35mm carb with spacer on reeds cage, boysen reeds and cfm air box with uni filter and outerwears, FMF pipe and silencer. The bike started on 3 kick but couldnt get to idle correctly, tried the idle screw but nothing, had to keep twisting the throttle. 152 main, 45 pilot, #6 slide with DGH needle on middle clip. Now the bike wont start. Sounds like it wants to but wont turn over. Plug is wet and I have tried 3 so far. I feel lim e this is a carb problem, what should I try so I can break the engine in and then plug chop?
 
what kind of keihin carb? is it a pw or a pwk? the pilot is to big, go with a 42. rest your float. maybe flooding it.
 
your jetting #'s are close enuf it should start.

did it pass a leakdown test ?
float height ?
where's your airscrew.....turns out from lightly bottomed ?
how bout the idle adjustment screw ?
you'll need to get the float height, pilot/airscrew and idle screw set to where it will at least idle before moving forward.
 
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I know you guys like pics so here you go.
 

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Remove the inline fuel filter. the tank has one built in and the inline could cause problems.

when i had the filter in my line i noticed a lack of fuel below it at times. you dont want to starve the engine of fuel whilst riding hard!!
 
your jetting #'s are close enuf it should start.
did it pass a leakdown test ?
float height ?
where's your airscrew.....turns out from lightly bottomed ?
how bout the idle adjustment screw ?
you'll need to get the float height, pilot/airscrew and idle screw set to where it will at least idle before moving forward.

It did start on 3rd kick just had trouble Ideling. Now it wants to srart but doesnt. Tested to 7 psi before installing and no leaks. Air screw is 1.5 turns out. Idle screw is probably turn 3/4 the way in but I tryed adjusting in and out and it didnt do anyrhing. I noticed that when I changed the reeds they where not cracked but open a little bit on 2 of them. I flipped them and tightened down, would this maaybe flood it?
 
looking good !
now lose that fuel filter, it's uneeded and may be part of your problems
 
It did start on 3rd kick just had trouble Ideling. Now it wants to srart but doesnt. Tested to 7 psi before installing and no leaks. Air screw is 1.5 turns out. Idle screw is probably turn 3/4 the way in but I tryed adjusting in and out and it didnt do anyrhing. I noticed that when I changed the reeds they where not cracked but open a little bit on 2 of them. I flipped them and tightened down, would this maaybe flood it?

try going up and down one on the pilot, to the 42 first like dave suggested.
whats your elevation and temps your currently starting this in ?
 
I'll have to get some more pilots I think I only have a 48 in the garage. I will cut some tubing and get rid of the fi lter and see of it does anything. Once a get it runni g and do the heat cycles do you think I am good with my main (152) or should I jump to be on the safe side before plug chopping.

14ft above sea level, eastern NC. Was 52 today when I was starting it. But it has been getting to the 20's and 30's lately.
 
I noticed that when I changed the reeds they where not cracked but open a little bit on 2 of them. I flipped them and tightened down, would this maaybe flood it?
 
hard to say on the 152, it's in the range, I run a 155 but with a different pipe at higher elevation.
your lower elevation = more fuel, but the fmf = less, might equal them out ?
plug chop for sure

check the reeds again if in doubt, they could definately cause your symptoms
 
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Unless the fuel filter is clogged I doubt its causing a problem. Is the carb getting fuel? Spark? Good compression? Maybe one of the jets is clogged. The reeds will seal under pressure in the crankcase when its runnimg so a really small gap usually isnt an issue.
 
eff the fuel filter/get rid of it,just another crease to collect dirt
hope you dont got paint on your electrical grounds:)
is tors deleted?
what is that ignition coil/or orange boot??
 
You got good spark? Oem electronics, coil, stator etc? Flywheel on correctly with keyway? Air filter clean and good? No obstructions in intake or exhaust,,, ex... like the exhaust plug u used to leak test still in cyl?? ;) or rag in the intake? Compression is good? Piston in correctly? <<< think of the little things man. If she ran fine before and all you did was port,,it should at least run. Maybe not perfect but run at the least..

good new fuel?? Whats compression at?
 
Switched the reeds out with another set I had that fits tight and resealed up the intake, letting it sit to dry compleatly. The orange boot is just an aftermarket coil. I have 3 here and this one gave off the best spark. Nothings clogged and brand new filter out the box. I'm going to clean electrical plugs and resand ground points. Im wondering if the stator isnt putting off enough ohns, the one on has some rust that was cleaned but might switch it out I have 3 here as well. The fuel was in the tank and only about 2 weeks old but will drain and refill with new 93 and mix again 32:1.
 
Compression 137 and holding on a cold engine. Tryed to sart it again and same thing. She cranks and starts for a split second then stops. I think its the stator not putting enough out. Same thing happened on another engine, switched out the stator and bam fire right up. I will switch it out tomorrow and try.
 
Sounds like a bad stator.. Try and go with an oem one if you can, I read allot of bad things about the "R" stators. Ricky stator Ricks and Ricks motor sports. << One of them may be ok but what one I don't remember. Also check your flywheel for damaged magnets.. Also maybe swap out that coil quick if you have another. Also check that the plug boot and connection is all good and maybe cut back about 1/8" of the end and reinstall boot. You can also check it with a meter.
 
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Damn stator on this one again. I switched it out with the one on my parts motor as well as wood ruff key because it didn't look so pretty. Switched coil and boot as well as put in new plug BAM fired right up. Messed with the idleing and got it descent. The bike moves then boggs a little when you start going and then when you about 3/4 Is opens up and smooths out. That means needle setting correct? What clip do I need to move it to, I'm on middle clip now?
 
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