Front brake problem

Discussion in 'Miscellaneous' started by Hunter Gleadell, Jun 14, 2017.

  1. Hunter Gleadell

    Hunter Gleadell New Member

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    Im new to the 2 stroke world and need some help with a few things. I Just bought a 98 Blaster today and was told the motor was recently rebuilt and only had 20 minutes on it... this may be true, however I got it home and started riding it and it was great. Once it got warm it started running on it own and I didn't notice anything. Well I had it running and idling for a while and it gradually started getting higher and higher until I shut it off due to not knowing if it would blow up for not lol. I need help figuring out what could be causing this, but I need it dummied down so I can understand it and work on it without taking it somewhere.

    Problem #2.
    The brakes might as well not even be on it. It has very little stopping ability, but when it does stop which isn't often by any means, it pulls to left and locks the tire up until it stops... could this just be that it needs new shoes? or is it a deeper cause. I ordered a new rear break cable because the current cable is stiff and wont allow me to push the brake down very far and it doesn't even try to stop it. HELP lol
     
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2017
  2. Larry's Shee

    Larry's Shee Active Member

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    Hopefully you got the "shorty" rear cable, only way to make the rear brakes work good. There's a write-up on how to make the rears work good.

    The fronts, start by cleaning and lubricating everything well.
     
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  3. Hunter Gleadell

    Hunter Gleadell New Member

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    I did in fact get the shorty cable.. ill take a look at the write-up.

    I ordered new shoes for the front brakes, hope to fix the problem
     
  4. Dash

    Dash Member

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    For problem#1 what do you mean by it gradually got higher and higher? Are you referring to the rpms increasing on their own? If they are, you've probably got an air leak that needs to be fixed, or more simply your idle adjuster may just need to be fine tuned.
     
  5. Hunter Gleadell

    Hunter Gleadell New Member

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    Correct, the rpms climb so high that it sounds terrible so I have to kill it... im new to this so I have no clue where I would even look to adjust that lol.... or how to tune it.
     
  6. Hunter Gleadell

    Hunter Gleadell New Member

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    @Awk08 any ideas? I see that your well respected and knowledgeable about these
     
  7. Dash

    Dash Member

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    Pull your plug and take a look at the color. If it's got an air leak, your electrode will be a glazed white. If the plug is burning as it should, it will be brown. Next step is to let it idle and spray starting fluid around the base of the head, jug and intake flange. If the engine speeds up with the starting fluid, you've found the leak. If the plugs brown and the engine does NOT speed up with the starting fluid, try and adjust the idle so that it's lower and take it for a rip, and see if the idle changes again.
     
    Last edited: Jun 16, 2017
  8. Dash

    Dash Member

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    To adjust the idle on a blaster, remove your seat and look at the back of the carb from the top. You'll see a big flathead screw, twist it. (FYI the adjuster will only be in this location if you still have the tors system.)
     
  9. fouchis

    fouchis Supporting Member Forum Supporter

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    I had this very same issue when I got my first one. Not trying to spank you here, but it takes time to learn and read about the carburetor jetting, air leak testing, plug chopping, and fuel mixture.

    on mine I found out the previous owner was running 50:1 mix (very very Lean), he had the stock 230 main jet, 25 pilot jet should be 30 or 32.5, carb floats were not set to specs and the TORS was still on (not bad if it works properly). It had after market DG pipes and worn reeds also. I started from scratch and went through the whole thing.

    Fuel mix should be 32:1 (Suggest Amsoil, not Yamalube 2r).

    Is the TORS still on or deleted?

    What type of expansion pipe and silencer are on it?

    Take carb off and check float height and main jet and pilot jet size - (hope you have very good eye sight)

    Does it have a big bore kit in it?

    Check the reeds on the intake and make sure you cannot see daylight when looking through it.


    Do an air leak test,

    Do an air leak test,

    Do an air leak test,

    Do not start again until you do an air leak test - make your own or buy one from Awk08.

    You were smart to quit riding until you figure it out.
     
  10. Mr fix it

    Mr fix it Member

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    This happened to mi e right after I got finished rebuilding my motor and I only had to adjust the peice on Top of the carb.it wasn't closing all the way. I adjusted it and now works like a dream and fires up on 1st sometimes 2nd kick. Love it
     
  11. 300iFordguy

    300iFordguy New Member

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    For your front breaks, I’d give turning the wingnut on the inside of the tire a try, tighten to make your breaks tighter or vice versa. Each front tire has one so you can adjust as needed
     
  12. Larry's Shee

    Larry's Shee Active Member

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  13. Larry's Shee

    Larry's Shee Active Member

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    And you definitely need to do a leak down test. It’s a cheap maintenance item. As old as these things are once a year (at least) is a good idea
     

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