Got my Blaster going 2 days ago & started the break in process but having troubles getting the correct plug color!
I built a leakdown tester & did a test after i got the top end on & found i had a major air leak around the stock reed cage even with a new gasket so I ended up using form a gasket to get it sealed up. Held 6 lbs of pressure for about 5 minutes so thought it was all good. Got it all back together & it fired up the 3rd kick...sounded good & was idling great for the 15 minute heat cycle occasionally blipping the throttle. Let it cool down for 45 minutes & then took it for a 10 minute ride at about 1/4 throttle, did this process like 6 more times till i got to 3/4 throttle but never full throttle. Pulled the plug & it was dark gray & dry so from what the clymers manual says that Ok so i thought it was all good!
Today i rode it for 30 minutes straight & notice it was starting to bog pretty bad above 1/2 throttle so I stopped riding, let it cool down & pulled the plug...same color! Decided to check the trans fluid & it was low. My 14T front sprocket came today so i pulled the stator cover to put it on & noticed oil inside of it...obviously the seal gave out while i was attempting to break it in. Anyways Im kinda freaking out because I have ran it lean the whole time Ive been trying to break it in when I had been misled into thinking gray or tan either way was alright according to the Clymers manual.
Im not gonna ride it anymore til i get the new seal put in but do you guys think this is whats giving me the gray color on the insulator instead of a tan color? The Blaster came with an Fmf fatty & powercore 2 silencer & an Uni filter but had the stock main in it so i put a 280 in it & removed the airbox lid. Also the silencer has no baffle or packing i discovered so is the lack of backpressure a culprit also possibly? The needle is set to stock & the pilot air screw 1 1/2 turns out.
Sorry for the long post, just wanted to give all the info i could so you guys could help me out...thanks!
I built a leakdown tester & did a test after i got the top end on & found i had a major air leak around the stock reed cage even with a new gasket so I ended up using form a gasket to get it sealed up. Held 6 lbs of pressure for about 5 minutes so thought it was all good. Got it all back together & it fired up the 3rd kick...sounded good & was idling great for the 15 minute heat cycle occasionally blipping the throttle. Let it cool down for 45 minutes & then took it for a 10 minute ride at about 1/4 throttle, did this process like 6 more times till i got to 3/4 throttle but never full throttle. Pulled the plug & it was dark gray & dry so from what the clymers manual says that Ok so i thought it was all good!
Today i rode it for 30 minutes straight & notice it was starting to bog pretty bad above 1/2 throttle so I stopped riding, let it cool down & pulled the plug...same color! Decided to check the trans fluid & it was low. My 14T front sprocket came today so i pulled the stator cover to put it on & noticed oil inside of it...obviously the seal gave out while i was attempting to break it in. Anyways Im kinda freaking out because I have ran it lean the whole time Ive been trying to break it in when I had been misled into thinking gray or tan either way was alright according to the Clymers manual.
Im not gonna ride it anymore til i get the new seal put in but do you guys think this is whats giving me the gray color on the insulator instead of a tan color? The Blaster came with an Fmf fatty & powercore 2 silencer & an Uni filter but had the stock main in it so i put a 280 in it & removed the airbox lid. Also the silencer has no baffle or packing i discovered so is the lack of backpressure a culprit also possibly? The needle is set to stock & the pilot air screw 1 1/2 turns out.
Sorry for the long post, just wanted to give all the info i could so you guys could help me out...thanks!
