Engine locked-up, need advise.

stroker
i did use a ratchet and some force to wiggle it loose, but nothing excessive. i understand what youre saying. thanks for the help.

blaaster
all chips are very small sand like particle some are a bit bigger but very small. i do intend on taking the everything apart and inspect, clean and maybe resurface any imperfect areas.

ill be off for a few days during the holidays. really hoping i can put a good amount of time on the engine.
 
Split the cases bro and replace the bearrings after you thoroughly clean the case halves.

Ken oconnor told me in one of my many lengthy conversations with the blaster "DON" himself and he said it takes 3 grains of sand in a cylinder to ruin the bore.3 grains bro that aint nothing!

If you got fragments of any kind id replace the bearrings and clean the cases its not a hard job you can have it done and the peace of mind in one evening.That will also give you a chance to clean and ins[ect your transmission as well.Its a win/win situation.
 
Ken sure knows his stuff, and in no way will I put him down, but only one grain of silica can completly wreck a bearing.

Bottom ends must be spotless!
 
hey fellas
hope you guys had a great holiday season. sorry for the delay, i really didnt do as much work as i hoped for but, still got some things done.

Here are a couple of pics
 

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decided to wait till after x-mas to figure out what i wanted to do with the engine. i was going to port the the exhaust port myself but, after much self debate i decided not to. im just going to send it in to someone to get the exhaust port and honing done together. even though with 5 boys x-mas is always tough but, i still managed to save a little money to get the engine work done.
i will be sending some of you a pm to give me quote on the work. so if any of you are interested in doing the engine work send me a pm and let me know how much is going to set me back.
 
as far as the bottom end. i have it just about all taken apart but, i cant pull the damn stator off. i already broke a puller leg trying pull it out, it is in there! and im kinda stuck because i dont want to cause any damage to the rod bolt the puller center connects to. last time i tried to pull it out, was about a week ago. decided to hold on till i get to tips or something
 
thats the original piston, pretty nasty burn, eh.
 

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That defenitly looks like alot of heat in that motor. I would have the crank bearings checked or maybe replaced, also the connecting rod bearing. If you dont have that done it may cost you more in the long run. That heat can warp the bearings and if you mixed the oil with only half oil the bearings were dry along with the extreme heat. Just my opinion
 
thats the original piston, pretty nasty burn, eh.

You admitted that you used the wrong oil/fuel ratio, that may have helped the overheating problem.

To my poor old eyes that piston shows distinct signs of detonation, from running too lean.

Pre mixing with too little oil produces a richer fuel mix which will keep the burn cooler.

With the correct jetting and wide throttle openings one could use 40:1 even 50:1 and not experience too much heat.

What mods are done and what is your jetting?

Could you have had an air leak somewhere.
 
You talking stator or flywheel you can't get off? Reason being is I don't see how you could get any kind of pulle on it. Sure you have all bolts/screws out? If you're talking FW, anything but correct puller will wreck it.
 
That defenitly looks like alot of heat in that motor. I would have the crank bearings checked or maybe replaced, also the connecting rod bearing. If you dont have that done it may cost you more in the long run. That heat can warp the bearings and if you mixed the oil with only half oil the bearings were dry along with the extreme heat. Just my opinion

jm
no worries, im not one to rush an engine job. everything will be carefully inspected before going back. id rather let it sit forever before i put it back together with bad or damaged parts.
 
You admitted that you used the wrong oil/fuel ratio, that may have helped the overheating problem.

To my poor old eyes that piston shows distinct signs of detonation, from running too lean.

Pre mixing with too little oil produces a richer fuel mix which will keep the burn cooler.

With the correct jetting and wide throttle openings one could use 40:1 even 50:1 and not experience too much heat.

What mods are done and what is your jetting?

Could you have had an air leak somewhere.

jetting is stock, mods: boyesen reed valves and an fmf powercore II

the heat was a combination of riding on sand with no paddles and the incorrect mixture. i dont think it had leak, because it always ran strong and i didn notice anything that would indicate a leak. but, then again i dont really know for sure, without a leak test.
 
Hey fellas
hope everyone is getting ready for spring just as i am. sorry for the delay in post, but im here and still alive. Sent the engine to ken o' to get ported, honed and the dome resurfaced. i should be getting it back next week.
while the top end was with ken,, i finally got the right tools to pull the crank apart. when i got it opened i was quite a bit disappointed. the crank and shaft looked like there out of balance (just by looking) and the washers between the crank and the rod were torn apart on one side.
 
some more pics of the damage
 

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i was wanting to get some advice as to what crank would best do the job. im not looking to spend anymore more money on engine work just to make the crank fit and work.
i was thinking along the lines of a Vito's +3.
what are your thoughts? any objective input would be great

thanks

ozzie
 
i was really hoping someone would shed some light on this. i was wanting to buy a +3mm vitos crank for my newly bored (67mm) and ported top end. would i benefit much from the +3mm crank or should i go with a vitos stock crank since its ported?
i would like to know what jetting would be most ideal, here all the engine mods

boyesen reed valves
ported
dome surfaced
crank (+3mm or stock dont know yet)
fatty pipe
fmf powercore II exhaust


thanks for all the help

ozzie
 
If you search for +3 vitos you'll find tons of info! However to be short you should have your porting match your +3 crank for best results.
 
ok, so i went ahead a bought the vitos +3 crank and the 67mm wiseco piston. all i need to buy is the jet. not sure what size though. these will be engine mods.

boyesen reed valves
ported
dome surfaced
crank +3mm
fatty pipe
fmf powercore II silencer

thanks

oz