Easy and Almost Free Way to Stop Leaky Carbs
- Thread starter Braaaptor
- Start date
Don't knock it until you try it. 
Kinda had same opinion. Basically you are micro polishing the seat, be surprised how black the Q-tip comes out. Do it several times until it no longer comes out black. Cleaner than a virgin P..... I:I
Kinda had same opinion. Basically you are micro polishing the seat, be surprised how black the Q-tip comes out. Do it several times until it no longer comes out black. Cleaner than a virgin P..... I:I
Thanks Braaaptor, I'll need this thread when I do my TORS removal, as my carb tends to leak from time to time. I've always thought it was because of a stuck float
If the float is sticking it could be rubbing the float bowl wall or an indentation worn in the float tang from the needle rubbing it?
Also the posts could have a shoulder worn on them which stops the float raising.
Also the posts could have a shoulder worn on them which stops the float raising.
Today a guy came to me in desperation, he had been trying to stop his carb flooding for days.
I removed the float only to find that where the needle rode, the tang was deeply pitted from wear.
Every time the float got to the top of its travel, the pit would cause the needle to be forced sideways, making it leak
I gripped a wrench in the vice and placed the tang over it.
With a fine punch and a small hammer I tapped the tang on the reverse side of the pit until an indentation was made, forcing material into the pit. from the backside.
It would have been good to have had someone to hold the float..
I then turned the float over, and used a very fine 4 square file to clean up the tang.
Refitted the float and hey presto, no flooding.
I removed the float only to find that where the needle rode, the tang was deeply pitted from wear.
Every time the float got to the top of its travel, the pit would cause the needle to be forced sideways, making it leak
I gripped a wrench in the vice and placed the tang over it.
With a fine punch and a small hammer I tapped the tang on the reverse side of the pit until an indentation was made, forcing material into the pit. from the backside.
It would have been good to have had someone to hold the float..
I then turned the float over, and used a very fine 4 square file to clean up the tang.
Refitted the float and hey presto, no flooding.
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Hi Guys!
I cleaned up my carb yesterday. Installed it today and it still leaks from the bottom overflow on carb. Infact, now the bike doesnt wana start at all.. Plus the fuel is pissing from the manifold / Exhaust mount? Please help guys. From what i know, if the fuel comes out there it means the petrol chamber is flooded too? Is that possible? The fuel cut off switch doesnt quite turn the fuel off too
I cleaned up my carb yesterday. Installed it today and it still leaks from the bottom overflow on carb. Infact, now the bike doesnt wana start at all.. Plus the fuel is pissing from the manifold / Exhaust mount? Please help guys. From what i know, if the fuel comes out there it means the petrol chamber is flooded too? Is that possible? The fuel cut off switch doesnt quite turn the fuel off too
You need to replace/repair the petcock.
Set the float level to 21-21.5mm and make sure the jp needle and seat is clean...
Set the float level to 21-21.5mm and make sure the jp needle and seat is clean...
I fixed the petcock valve. it starts up, but it doesnt rev up. I have to give it throttle to keep it running, if i give too much throttle, its like the engine smothers.. like dropping in refs... what could cause this?
