Its very rough and uneven.. does it need to be ported/grinded down so its straight horizontal? So its like the other side.. straight down along with the skirt.. or does it need to be in that arc/angle up...
Does this needs to be ported/ grinded????
- Thread starter lassek
- Start date
That could def be cleaned up for sure. Mine wasnt quite that bad I just smoothed out/matched that part myself. I would grind almost to a 90 but with a slightly smooth corner so it would be less prone to crack. The entire edges where the transfers meet the sleeve should be blended since you have it out.
Is there a risk of the cylindersleeve getting to thin when i blend them .. or does it just need to be nice and smooth a "like one piece" ..
I smoothed mine out a bit on my 200 cylinder, but I don't really know if its that important or if it even helps any. It might smooth out the air flow but you would have to ask someone like flotek oe kennedy to know for sure.
kennedy?? Flotek?? Does it give any enhancement / performance increase / better flow or it only the looks? If grinded correctly.
I did a cleanup port on my wife's banshee which was similar to this. I smoothed everything out and sharpened the edges on the transfers and cleaned up the casting flaws on the intake ports. It made a very noticeable difference in power. Much better responce as well. I'd have to say go for it, it definitely isn't going to hurt anything.I:I
RICKSTRICKS:
Hi, im glad to hear!
You had a very noticeable difference .... and was that only by cleaning, smoothing, and sharpen? You did not increase size of intake, exhaust and transfer ports?
Hi, im glad to hear!
You had a very noticeable difference .... and was that only by cleaning, smoothing, and sharpen? You did not increase size of intake, exhaust and transfer ports?I barely opened up the intake ports during the smoothing out of the casting flaws basically whatever material needed to be removed to even everything out and match it all up between casting and sleeve, but I did also angle the bridges in the intake ports. This banshee already had the exhaust porting when we bought it, so this increase in power was beyond what it already had from that. It revs faster and higher and blows the tires away like crazy. You just want to try to smooth everything out and blend it together for nice even flow without removing too much material and you'll have a strong reliable engine.
Ok, i have decided to do the hole thing myself.. port and polish....clean everything... and only have the head done outta town.. (mill and redesign) ... Im gonna take my chances.. and do a mild port, and remove edges of transfer channels in the bore.. a la trail port..
So im gonna buy a complete dremel kit tomorrow or the day after.
So im gonna buy a complete dremel kit tomorrow or the day after.
You can do it with a dremel, but I found that an air die is much quicker and you can vary the speed up and down easily on the fly. Whichever way you go, you'll need to get a couple different tips. Get an aggressive burr for removing the material and a less aggressive for smoothing it out afterwards. Your best bet is the cone shaped bits, they can get into most places okay. Take you time and you shouldn't have any trouble.
Hey Rick I really appreciate the info and help here..
I think I have to stick with the normal dremel though.. i dont have air equipment... And cone heads.. rough and fine..
Im gonna grind the the intake port higher and wider and the "wall" in the middle thinner and more sharp.. what about the little flat square hole over the intake ports? I guess i could open it a little more?
Does anybody know how much the exhaust should be portet and opened?
I think I have to stick with the normal dremel though.. i dont have air equipment... And cone heads.. rough and fine..
Im gonna grind the the intake port higher and wider and the "wall" in the middle thinner and more sharp.. what about the little flat square hole over the intake ports? I guess i could open it a little more?
Does anybody know how much the exhaust should be portet and opened?
You should be able to raise the roof on the exhaust port about 1mm and get good results. Then polish the crap out of it. Only polish the exhaust port, not the intake or transfers. Just smooth those out with the dremel, but for the exhaust, the smoother the better. Smooth it out with the dremel then use some extremely fine sandpaper to get a glassbead type finish. After that you could even go a step further and get some rouge and buffing pads for your dremel and run that through there too. Good luck.
Ok, ill raise the roof 1mm in the exhaust port, keeping it ovale... and polish the hell out of it! :-D
But why not polish the intake or transfers???? ( I should still grind it for size the intake right???? bigger and larger )
Also! what about the piston windows? should i do like this guy?
But why not polish the intake or transfers???? ( I should still grind it for size the intake right???? bigger and larger )
Also! what about the piston windows? should i do like this guy?
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I wouldn't try to remove too much material. If u over do it, you can really screw it up and it can't be returned to the way it was. I'd focus on cleaning flaws and smoothing/blending everything, sharpen the transfer ports and the bridge on the intake and raise the roof on the exhaust. The reason you don't want to polish the intake is that the fuel will tend to bead up on the high polished finish and won't get broken down properly. A slightly rough surface will cause the fuel to break up and get sucked into the intake the way it should. Nice even dispersion. The exhaust on the other hand is just a gas that you want to exit asap that's why the smoother you get it the quicker you get it out. As for the piston, it's not necessary, but you can open the windows and it will make a slight difference. What your trying to accomplish is to get the piston windows to match your port windows. Going bigger than your port windows won't do anything except weaken the piston. Also anywhere you grind on the piston or the sleeve make sure to get everybit of burr off(use a magnifying glass if you have to). You don't want anything catching a ring or scoring your cylinder.
yes of coarse it needs fixed ,the stock blaster jug has probably over a dozen + areas that need addressed to what you pointed out is about about 1% of the problems ,send it off and have it done by a professional rasing your exhuast and playing around polishing things fiddeling with piston windows is never going to make the potential real world power that a true portjob from someone who does it everyday will offer
Thanks.. Thats really helpful information! .. I will do as you say and re-think about the piston.. I will only very little touch it - if at all..
about the transfers I will only clean them and carefully grind them but not polish.... and ill raise the exhaust 1mm..
about the transfers I will only clean them and carefully grind them but not polish.... and ill raise the exhaust 1mm..
Flotek: I can 100% follow you... I just live in Denmark, Europe.. and im just not into disassembly piston and cylinder and whatnot and ship over seas.. i just dont have the time and money for it.. So im trying a DIY with somé help.. I mean a lot of the clean up shouldnt be that hard.. I am also checking tomorrow to see if i can get my girlfriends father to mill and redesign the head on his work.. but he promises nothing before he see it.. Besides this is a temporary solution till maybe some day Vito Big Bore.. so i dont wanna spend a fortune on this stock cylinder kit.. just try to enhance it the best i can.
