Did I just save money? No, I didn't switch to Geico

[4thgenceli]

Previous thread:
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/first-post-lots-to-do-but-need-guidance.62653


Being the curious gremlin I am I started tearing down the motor. Pulled the right side cover (but didn't drain oil) and wound up with a lovely little mess on my workbench. Quick clean up and I continued my way into the deep hole. Clutch plates and basket looks like normal wear, nothing to serious. I'll be replacing the clutch since I already have it out.

Went on to see if I could get the crank to rotate. I remembered a trick I used when one of my impact drivers was left out in the elements and it locked up from condensation / elements penetrating it. I disassembled it, put some oil into the case, closed it back up and let it sit a couple days. Came back out, opened it up again, cleaned it out with some brake cleaner and re-lubed it. Still works like a champ to this day.

Anyway, back on topic. This old man memory of mine just keeps derailing my train of thought. Using the above logic, I poured about half a quart of Yamalube right onto the crank and into the crankcase. I let it sit for a couple days and went to try to turn it again with the wrench in hand. At it was quite stubborn...but then slowly started turning and turning until suddenly...it broke free and rotates (what I think) is perfect. No dead spots, no binding, just smooth and simple rotations. I flipped it upside down over a bucket and rotated it again and blasted some brake cleaner up there while rotating it to flush out crud. I put more Yamalube on it and its sitting in the garage right now just soaking.

The real question:
Did I just save myself from having to split the cases and get a full bottom end rebuild done? I'm digging through the manual to try and find tolerance specs and see if it's all still within spec before I just order a new top end and go from there.

 

[Jimmer]

Without getting technical,are you feeling lucky?

 

[82cutty]

I would rebuild it

 

[Bluesman]

Lets start a pool. I'm putting $1 on 27 minutes and 32 seconds ride time till total destruction.

 

[pudvah]

If he doesn't warm it up first 4 mins if he does 12 mins.

 

[jvb]

Try it! ......
Couple of hours should be possible.. with some xtra noises....

 

[deeeebeeeeee]

Depends on what come out with that Yama lube and brake cleaner, if there was nothing but maybe a tiny biit of rust when you filter it it wouuld probably be ok to roll the dice, as long as your no going with a high power, heavy duty build.
if there is any aluminum at all grey, black, shiny then more than just moisture and time has had the motor locked. You will have to split the cases and replace the crank bearings and seals at least, might have to send it off to get the crank rebuilt.

Despite sound advice, I tried for 2 days to clean my main bearings.
After dropping a piston skirt, a piece of piston immediately fouled the plug and there was one loud rotation before aluminum between the big end of the rod and cases brought things to a halt.
Anyhow it took 2 days, 2 cans of carb cleaner, 2 cans of brake cleaner, rags, compressed air, gas diesel fuel, etc,etc .. To fi ally give up ..I was determined to get the grit out of those bearings, it never happened all I did was waste ten bucks and delay ordering the right parts. To this day they feel a little gritty if spun by hand w/o lube, a little wd40 and they seem to turn smoothly, except for the pieces of cast aluminum gleaning at you from inside the races

On the other hand if it was indeed full of oil and not water, and you pull the main seals and don't see any signs of rust, you should be ok, but even surface rust will cause the bearing balls to start pitting, and eventually they are going to start getting hot, score the races, swap metal and melt down, when is the question? thing is even if it makes it until it's time to rebuild the top again, you almost certainly will have to do them then, and until you do you will probably cringe and fret everyone a gear is missed, or that nephew or whoever gets on it and winds it up like a centrifuge. Lol

Its been said before and maybe already in this thread, But you gotta look at it like this. How much does splitting the bottom cost? How much is your peace of mind worth?

You can spend less around $100, for a couple tools main bearings and seals, if the big end rod bearing is rust and slop free, or you could spend around $500+ on the bottom end with a +4 stroker crank trenching, bearings, seals, tools .
In the middle is having your crank rebuilt to spec (or better) with a new rod, bearings, seals, gaskets, etc.

If you plan to split your own cases you will need a flywheel puller (special tool), a case splitter (can sub a steering wheel puller), a clutch/flywheel holder (special tool), and a torch as well as a metric wrench and socket set.
You will also need Yama bond (1104 case bond, Permatex moto1),seals, gaskets, main bearings, 2 different oem folding lock washers, new allen head case bolts are recommended. A rotary tool cutter or grinder is useful and will allow you to do, the shift star mod, to smooth out the shifter.

And the list goes on, there is so many little things you can do to make the blaster better and all of them are detailed here on BF somewhere, takes a bit of reading and studying.

 

[joeak47]

Also, don't try "saving money" by purchasing one of these "top end kits" below \/ \/ \/

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-YAMAHA-...ash=item234a454066:g:2OwAAOSwpDdVP6O-&vxp=mtr

 

[joeak47]

After reading your original post in the link above, and seeing that there are multiple "unknowns", I would make it a killer winter project and have it ready for the spring time, and probably the rest of your life by dong it properly.

Don't take this wrong, but...
DON'T HALF ASS THE PROJECT!!! Its not worth it!

Either to your wallet, or your mind.

If its worth putting your time into it, its worth putting your money into it! You don't have to go hog wild on a rebuild. Just do it correctly... Rebuild the crank, or at least remove it and inspect it to see if its within specs, and do a proper top end rebuild. That means SEND IT TO KEN and have it properly matched to an over -size piston and end up with a round , strait bore, with no taper (very important).
New bearings, gaskets (oem), and seals and you'll be in business, with a fast turn around.

If you do it this way, we'll be reading about the fun adventures you've had on it this coming spring and summer instead of you telling us that your on your fourth piston and "please help", because you don't understand why. You have a worth while project there. You might as well do it right. Do you have pictures of it? Please post them.

One other thing... If you have a few extra bucks to spend you could even have it (I highly recommend it) ported by Ken, or by yourself using his templates. And have the head re-chambered into a "Hemi" with a proper squish band. These two modifications will almost double your HP, but retain complete reliability using the STOCK carb. This will require PROPER JETTING and a REAL PIPE TOO. Worth EVERY PENNY!

Don't waste your time on useless bullsh#t like boost bottles, amp links, stickers, boysen reed valves, rad valves, vito's reed valves, carb spacers (unless used to clear the clutch arm) $88 top-end kits, $109 top-end kits, useless power-up jet kits that contain two (2) jets and one needle (someone needs punched in the face for those), 34MM & bigger carbs, ricky stator "roost boost", used cranks, used pistons, "special spark" plugs, special high compression pistons, etc.

Bottom line... You can do it! Just do it right. Don't half-ass the project.

 

[joeak47]

I just went back an looked at the cylinder and crank case pictures you posted...
Rebuild it! Any bearings inside that thing are going to be pitted.
You also have that classic "wiseco four corner seizure" on that piston. A proper warm-up and properly clearanced piston would have prevented that from happening.

Do it right and do it once! Don't compare it to that air tool left outside in the rain to an engine. That air tool is only used once in a while for very brief moments. That blaster engine is screaming at 8,000 RPM!