I bought a blaster and it has a fmf turbine core 2 fatty and it doesn't idle really at all.. The previous owner jetted it up high I was wondering how I can get it back to normal running and idling great. Thanks
Correct jetting for fmf
- Thread starter Josh_bodine
- Start date
Go to FmF website and theres a tool to calculate that for you. Heres the link,
Rider Support - Jetting Center - FMF Racing
Rider Support - Jetting Center - FMF Racing
List all your mods, elevation and temperature and someone will come up with a ballpark figure.
Pipe only = #260 main jet. Needle in middle slot, pilot #32.5.
Aftermarket air filter + 1 or 2 sizes on main.
Air box lid off + 2 sizes on main.
32:1 mix + 1 size main.
All same needle and pilot.
Pipe only = #260 main jet. Needle in middle slot, pilot #32.5.
Aftermarket air filter + 1 or 2 sizes on main.
Air box lid off + 2 sizes on main.
32:1 mix + 1 size main.
All same needle and pilot.
with fmf system on stock too mildly built i used a 270 main worked great then an motor still hauls today three years later 
. stock pilot jet an needle are fine to use
. stock pilot jet an needle are fine to use
idle is controlled by the pilot jet and airscrew settings.....
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/adjusting-your-airscrew-pilot-jet-51060/
first, clean it well.....
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/how-clean-your-carb-pics-209/
and check/set your floats while your in there....
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/float-heights-how-adjust-them-50565/
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/adjusting-your-airscrew-pilot-jet-51060/
first, clean it well.....
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/how-clean-your-carb-pics-209/
and check/set your floats while your in there....
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/float-heights-how-adjust-them-50565/
/\ /\ /\ x 2 and plug chop to confirm jetting.
Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.
WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride WOT through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/
This is a good to go plug.
This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.
You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.
Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.
The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet circuit.
I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.
If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.
Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.
WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride WOT through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/
This is a good to go plug.
This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.
You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.
Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.
The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet circuit.
I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.
If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.
