I need to find out why my clutch isnt working properly. I have a 96 Blaster that had a blown up clutch, broken parts etc. So I bought a whole assembly from a 2001. It looks the same except the push plate is shaped different, round intead of crossed. The problem is with the boss, I get the basket on, the primary drive gear lines up perfectly, I put the thrust plate on, then the boss itself, then the lock washer, then the nut. The problem is here, when I start to get the nut even slightly tightened, the boss just turns with the basket like they are a solid unit. This might be a dumb question, but isnt the boss supposed to spin freely once that nut is torqued? This is without any clutches in place. What have a I done wrong. I checked the assembly all the way back to the very thin conical washer, then the thick spacer, then the basket, then then the thrust plate (looks like a thick washer with the notched center), then the clutch boss, then the lock washer then the nut. Is that the right order? Arghhh! Please help.
Clutch issues
- Thread starter weare138
- Start date
Pictures would be helpful.
Im guessing it spinning freely because you have to put the quad in gear and have someone hold it still while you tighten it. Thats assuming you dont have the tool to hold the clutch.
Your instructions are very hard to follow. Maybe its just me....
Im guessing it spinning freely because you have to put the quad in gear and have someone hold it still while you tighten it. Thats assuming you dont have the tool to hold the clutch.
Your instructions are very hard to follow. Maybe its just me....
OK I got it figured out
This is something that someone might want to post somewhere that people will see it pretty easily. I just had a nightmare with my clutch, but I got it figured out, I have a 1996 Blaster, the clutch basket and boss was broken when I bought it from some guy(I guess this happens often with blasters) so I bought a new assembly from a 2001 off ebay, I installed exactly how the service manual says to, piece by piece in order and all specs followed, and it was not right, I ruined one of the teeth on the driven gear, and ruined my kickstarter and idle gear. So if you are replacing your clutch basket with different year parts. PAY ATTENTION TO THE SPACER SIZE THAT GOES UNDER THE BASKET. The one on my 96 was about 1/16 inch fatter than the one on a 2001, this made the boss ride against the basket, essentially making the clutch a solid non-functioning piece, and it misaligned the kicker gear so the starter wouldnt disengage properly. Add to this the fact that my engine was running backwards, which I had no idea of until I tried to put into gear)because the flywheel key was sheared off and the kick starter ran backwards into the case. End result, new clutch case, new idle gear, new kick start assembly, new clutch basket. All from one little too fat spacer. But I am happy that I figured it out. I just hope I can save someone else the time and money.
This is something that someone might want to post somewhere that people will see it pretty easily. I just had a nightmare with my clutch, but I got it figured out, I have a 1996 Blaster, the clutch basket and boss was broken when I bought it from some guy(I guess this happens often with blasters) so I bought a new assembly from a 2001 off ebay, I installed exactly how the service manual says to, piece by piece in order and all specs followed, and it was not right, I ruined one of the teeth on the driven gear, and ruined my kickstarter and idle gear. So if you are replacing your clutch basket with different year parts. PAY ATTENTION TO THE SPACER SIZE THAT GOES UNDER THE BASKET. The one on my 96 was about 1/16 inch fatter than the one on a 2001, this made the boss ride against the basket, essentially making the clutch a solid non-functioning piece, and it misaligned the kicker gear so the starter wouldnt disengage properly. Add to this the fact that my engine was running backwards, which I had no idea of until I tried to put into gear)because the flywheel key was sheared off and the kick starter ran backwards into the case. End result, new clutch case, new idle gear, new kick start assembly, new clutch basket. All from one little too fat spacer. But I am happy that I figured it out. I just hope I can save someone else the time and money.
I had the same exact problem! I am rebuilding a blaster for my kid and the guy I got it from didn't have those washers or the conical spring washer which is extremely hard to find for some reason. I ended up just sticking a wave washer I found from a John Deere tractor and a random washer and couldn't figure out why it wasn't working. Finally on a hunch I ordered the conical spring the plate washer and the lock washer and they should be here on Saturday. After reading your post now I'm a bit more cautiously optimistic. What was the thickness of the right washer? I know you said that it was 1/16 too thick oh, but if you have your calipers handy what was the thickness of the right one?
I have one more question. Did the washer cause the flywheel key to sheer? Haven't done much on that side of the motor and now I am concernicus. And what's all this about the engine running backwards?
Flywheel keys Ussualy shear from improper tourqe or keyway installation.
It's a tapered shaft. The tapper holds. The flywheel from spinning on the shaft. Keyway is only there to time flywheel to the crank that's it.
If tapper is damaged some due to sheared keyway. Flywheel can be lapped with crank
It's a tapered shaft. The tapper holds. The flywheel from spinning on the shaft. Keyway is only there to time flywheel to the crank that's it.
If tapper is damaged some due to sheared keyway. Flywheel can be lapped with crank
That's the amazing thing about a two stroke, they'll run in either direction
Here's some info for you
https://www.blasterforum.com
Thanks!That's the amazing thing about a two stroke, they'll run in either direction
Here's some info for you
https://www.blasterforum.com
