Chain Question

callmej75

New Member
Jul 12, 2009
832
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Roanoke, VA
I just ordered a 14T front and 44T rear sprocket for the blaster because i do ride alot of trails here in VA so I need that bottom end grunt along with the top end power for the straight aways.

My question is, will I need a longer chain than stock since i am adding so many teeth to the stock setup? If i did have to lengthen the chain, how would i do that, or just buy a new chain that is longer and remove some links that way?
 
ive never done it it probaly depends how streched out you chain is then you might just have 2 ajust it but thats my opinion!
 
ive never done it it probaly depends how streched out you chain is then you might just have 2 ajust it but thats my opinion!

This is what i am hoping...I had to adjust it tighter a few days ago because it had too much slack in it.

I just recently got a Banshee axle and won a brake hub to fit it on ebay for $10 with caliper. I will be putting all of this in at the same time so if i gotta order an extended chain then i'd like to do it now so it won't be down for a week or so on shipping another chain
 
why would u go from a 13/40 to a 14/44??? its practically the same ratio. Ur wasting ur time putting those gears on cause ur not gaining anything. They say that adding one tooth to the front is like dropping 5 in the rear. So if u add 5 to the rear then u lose one in the front so that would put u back to the stock gearing. Ur best bet it to just put the 14tooth front on. It will bost your topend. The blaster already has too much bottom so it will make the gears feel longer.
 
My problem is the bottom end on climbing any kind of hill. It kicks the power band in and front goes up and its hard to handle, especially rocky hills.

Are you serious going that high in the rear sprocket would put me back to stock size? So If i leave the 13 tooth on and put the 44T on then i would gain some low end torque then? This toomey kit comes to life during the power band...and my wife rolled the blaster 4 times today because of it kicking in too hard. If I had tighter gear change then this problem could have been prevented. Just something where i can give it a little throttle without using the powerband sometimes is what i am looking for?
 
well i think the lower u go gear wise the harder its gunna hit cause the engine isnt working as hard. Its hard to tell so u need to try it. If u wanna make the impact of the powerband less intense then u want a reed spacer. People claim that it takes the force out of the powerband. If u want to keep the front end planted id suggest and extender swing arm, it makes a world of difference in the stance of the wheeler and the weight on the front tires.

And the problem is that a blaster has no power what so ever if its not in the powerband, so u need mods to use it to your advantage.
 
Yeh I was thinking about the gearing vs getting new v force 3 reeds. Making the throttle crisp before the powerband so this way the wife can switch gears at lower rpm rates. The banshee axle should help with the stability....I want at least a 3" extended swinger in the long run...but that's bucks I can't shell out right now. I just want power that is crisp and low so that way i don't run into the problems i did today of slinging the blaster off my wife. She hit a bump, hit the throttle a little when she did hit the bump, it threw her sideways and she over compensated and rolled until the ditch line stopped her. Now she is afraid to ride it since I put the Toomey kit on it...still alot of additions I have to do to it to make it more stable but I am trying to eliminate the cost effective things first is all.
 
Oh also I searched about the reed spacer, and there is so many controversies with that I just decided to hold off because some say it does nothing, and some says it did help. So I didn't want to piss into the wind and throw some money around that wouldn't help.
 
i beleive that if u try and make the throttle more crisp its gunna make the impact worse and its gunna do what u dont want it to. Like i said blasters have a hard time climbing hills unless the tires are turning in the powerband. Ive had problems that if im climbing and i lose my powerband the wheeler bogs right out and quits cause it doesnt have the umph to keep goin.

Like i said, ur best bet is gunna be an extended swinger. Bye the time u buy v3's ull be fairly close to the cost of a swingarm. Its really ur choice one what needs to be done, but i think this is definitely the best solution.
 
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if i were changing both spockets, i definately put a new chain on it, thats what wears sprockets..... worn chains, they're stretched out, and the chain rollers dont mate up with the teeth properly, causing premature sprocket wear
 
if i were changing both spockets, i definately put a new chain on it, thats what wears sprockets..... worn chains, they're stretched out, and the chain rollers dont mate up with the teeth properly, causing premature sprocket wear

So I am kinda wondering what length size chain would i get if i were to add both bigger sprockets? It calls for a 92 chain for stock with no stretching, so maybe a 94 or 96 length chain? I can always take a length off if its too much i guess.
 
swing arm was one of the best upgrades i did and yes a reed spacer would probably help you too

reedpacers work better on some engines than others and seems to do nothing on some depending on mods. but i've noticed a change on all 3 of the blasters i've put one on. it makes the power band a little less intense and stretches it so that the power comes on sooner and loasts longer.
 
Does anyone on here have an extended swingarm they wanna sell? Maybe 3-4"? That would definitely complement this banshee axle!
 
I can have one welded up...but I prefer one already fabbed up and ready to go as my powder coating oven is down and I would like to have it coated before I put it on?
 
why would u go from a 13/40 to a 14/44??? its practically the same ratio. Ur wasting ur time putting those gears on cause ur not gaining anything. They say that adding one tooth to the front is like dropping 5 in the rear. So if u add 5 to the rear then u lose one in the front so that would put u back to the stock gearing. Ur best bet it to just put the 14tooth front on. It will bost your topend. The blaster already has too much bottom so it will make the gears feel longer.

i needed more power for my blaster in the lower speeds so i switched to a 44-tooth rear sprocket. it is 10% lower than stock and it works great for me. i did lose a little top speed @5mph but it is not missed for most of the riding that i do. i agree that changing both sprockets would be wrong. try the 44t rear and see what you like- you will most likely need a longer chain. i forgot if i did as my friend changed mine while i was at work as i needed a new chain anyways so i did not pay attention to how many links you will need. i do not understand why everyone tells people that they need more top speed because the blaster is geared too low. everyones needs are different and my blaster does better for me in both the dunes and the mountains with the lower gearing. i nolonger have to slip my clutch near as much and i rarely go 50mph in either place.
 
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I agree 100% with your post. If I want some top speed gained, I'll keep the 14T lying around just in case i wanna do some flat racing with jumps. Most riding of what i do is in the mountains and I am slipping the clutch quite a bit on hills. The first flip on the blaster was someone else trying to take off on a hill and gave it too much gas because it wouldn't take off and it came straight back on the rear rack on them. Luckily noone was injured.

I'll do the 44 tooth and try the stock chain...if it's not working then I'll buy a 96 tooth chain to accomodate for both sprockets if I need to use the front some time. It's doubtful i will, but ya never know.

Thanks for the helpful advice and i gave ya some rep for that!