Bye bye RM, Hello Shee

dirtysquared

dirtysquared

DirtyDirty
Jun 30, 2013
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South Western PA
I traded the Rm125 and all the parts I had for it for a 2000 Banshee with Low compression. The good things that came out of this are that my wife is not yelling at me about having a bike, I've freed up alot of space, and I finally got the quad I've wanted since I was a kid.

It needs some love that I'm happy to show towards it. Its pretty much a straight stocker, the only mods are a boost bottle, K&N, FMF Fatty's, and some Cut fenders that I'm not crazy about.

I went over the suspension, and body well, and made a list of what it needs. I didnt tear into the engine yet because I didn't get to do a proper leakdown test on it yet, But I plan on it tomorrow.

My daughter is really excited to "help" redo it. She thinks we should make it pink and pretty. I'l just be happy to get it back up and running.

I'm sure this thing will never be done just like my Blaster, but Daddy/Daughter bonding time can't be bought.

Pics of the Banshee. and her first pony ride at presschool graduation.
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Its nice, keeping it blue to match the blaster as its big brother would be nice but totaly get the daughter pink thing. Have a pink s10 bc my daughter wanted to "help me choose paint", pink van, pink living room, pink spare quad lol. That was all when she was 2 i dont want to know whqt im in for when shes in preschool. But the bonding time is PRICELESS
 
Get rid of the boost bottle. They are junk and will cause air leaks. Stock crossover tube or aftermarket intake will solve that. Leave the FMF pipes on. Get a cool head with 21cc domes, pancake bearing, and billet water pump. Get a pro flow intake, have ken port and bore cylinders and you'll be ready to rip. Your jetting should be around 280 with those pipes.
 
I got the top end off tonight. I found 2 circlips that were about ready to pop off too. The one on the clutch side, required very little help to get out. I did find hot rods connecting rods in it, and the crank seems tight, I'm going to measure the side to side movement tomorrow night. The head appears to be a stock yamaha, just shined up.

I did a good leakdown test tonight before I tore into it. The stator side crank seal was leaking off. It took me awhile to figure that one out, but I ordered a new set of seals for it.

I found a OEM impeller in the waterpump, That's going to get swapped out for a billet impeller that so many people have recommended. If it ever quits raining here, I'm going to repaint the clutch cover, stator cover, foot pegs, and the rear brake lever. I started looking for pancake bearings too. Might as well do that while I have it all apart.

Here's the pics.
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Some of the parts showed up today. I put on the case saver, barpad, and I got the upper a-arm's re-bushed and re-bolted. The rest of the stuff should show up tomorow and saturday, so I'll keep on wrenching on it.

The cylinders will get sent out in the next day or 2. Hopefully I have everything else done by the time they return.
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Blue cylinders? Did you do that?

I agree with a lot of the recommendations except for the PD Cool Head (which I assumed from simply "cool head"). Get the Chariot Performance head. It looks great, cools extremely well and evenly, uses stock studs, and takes PD domes as well as a few others. Got mine shipped for 174 new from Chariot IIRC.

I'd like to add these:

Foot pegs - When muddy, my feet slip much worse than I'd like. Cut them, replace them, something.
Aftermarket shocks - I got Works triples w/res an I'm able to push mine so much harder than before. Very little roll.
Heel guards - Buddy almost lost a leg last weekend. Foot got caught under the chain at the back sprocket.
Shift star mod - because nobody ever didn't like the mod
Pro Flow w/UNI - Great fit, finish, easy to pull the filter, not too pricey
Pipe brackets drilled and bolts added - they will break. Give them time.
Rubber under the seat - it wobbles
Gusset the handlebar mount and subframe - seen quite a few bent in those places, to include mine.
Round the slide cutout for the guide in the carb if you remove TORS. Mine stuck at WOT in a very bad place.
Clean the brakes inside and out on the front. If they start to get too dirty, they'll stick. TMK, they quit selling some parts.
 
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I'm thinking about geting another head, but I might jus keep this thing pretty stock. There really isn't anywhere around me I could ride a built up Banshee. Its all tight trails, but its fun.

I'm going to send the cylinders out tomorrow.
 
A Banshee will always have top end power if your tuning is accurate and nothing is worn/broken. The trick is getting the bottom end power. Porting will widen power spread A LOT. To keep it cheap, 21cc domes and some good bottom end pipes will do the trick. I have no clue how the FMF Fattys do with bottom end, but the Gnarlys work pretty well.

If you're like me, I stay in 1st on the majority of my woods section of my track and I'm in the powerband, so bottom end isn't that big of a deal.
 
You should still get a cool head. You will need more bottom end and increasing compression will help. Also it will run a lot cooler.
 
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