broken bolt advice anyone? (oil injector removal problem)

pocket

New Member
Jun 22, 2010
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Southwest PA
I stopped right here to ask advice first. Everytime I rush through this situation, it ends up worse. What would you guys do with this next? It is PB blasting at the moment... but I am seriously starting to doubt PB blaster. I really dont want to end up drilling this out and tapping. Metal shavings+gears=bad. thanks for any advice.
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Okay, if Vice grips don't work (get big, bad ones and put that sucker on TIGHT), here is what I would do next:

Cover the area with a big rag, get a Dremel tool out and grind a nice, bit slot in it. Take a big screw driver, and twist the sucker out. If very tight, get a screw driver that you can also grab with a wrench. The good thing is you have a lot of bolt to play with. Would be worse if it snapped at the case....
 
if you have access to a welder thread a nut on to it and tack it on the heat itself shoud free it up, option 2 get a torch heat it up and use vice grips.. hope this helps!
 
Grind a flat spot on each side of the threads and put a adjustable wrench on it or vise grips and it wouldnt hurt to heat it up a little also. Good Luck
 
vice grips should take it right out

I agree, that was a lucky break. Grab a propane torch to heat the area around the bolt (not the bolt). Grab and clamp down the vice grips in the middle of the bolt and start working the bolt out. I try simple first so that is how I would do it. Only break out the welder if absolutely necessary imho.
 
vice grips don't fit in there, not without taking the whole thing off the frame. The pic makes the area look big, but its really tight. I may have to take it off before I break it lower. Im getting nervous.
 
yeah take a plumbers torch (if you have one) and heat up the area around the bolt. then after its good and hot take an ice cube or two and put the ice on the bolt, the shock should break it free enough to use vise grips or pliers to remve it.
an option ....when you put the cover back on how much thread sticks out beyond the cover? maybe put the cover on and thread a nut onto it and it MAY come out. but beware of breaking it further. good luck
 
I would put some heat on it that will loosen the rust in most cases, Right in the area i marked then take a pair of small channel locks and turn that out or make two flat spots on it first then heat and unscrew should work I had to do this when I replaced my cylinder studs!

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Thanks all for your help, lots of useful ideas- but I still didnt get it to budge. I tried just about everything suggested, but whats left of it may break soon. I have lost all faith in PB blaster, I am going to try mixing automatic transmission fluid and acetone for my last try. Anyone here ever try that? Its my last hope, I'll just heat the sh*t out of it and ice cube the bolt and give it its last turn for better or worse.
 
I think the idea of cutting a flat notch in the end and using a BIG screwdriver should work. I've done this many times on old VW cases with broken head studs. It also eliminates having to get in to that tight space with vice grips. As also noted, with this method you are able to get the vice grips on the screwdriver as a last resort. I'm always amazed at what a BIG screwdriver can accomplish.
 
Or grind the bolt head off to something that resembles a 6pt socket head and pound a small socket on there with a breaker bar and turn it slowly. If you go that route, cover the whole sidecase that has the clutch and gears exposed with a few rags to prevent any metal shavings from getting in the motor. You're lucky that you had that much of the bolt sticking out vs having it break off flush with the case. Those are a pain...
 
I would go ahead and rip that motor out the frame 20- 25 min its out and itll b a lot easier to get to just my opinion The get u a can of free and soak it down for a day. the take a light hammer and tap it not too hard but just enough to try and un cease it. then if u got one put a small pipe wrench on it and it should turn out if it dont break if it does break off go to ya auto parts store and get u a ease out bit to fit it its a reverse threaded bit that as it screws in ith loosens the bolt.
 
undo ya plastic take the boot from the air box off the carb, take the carb loose from the intake, take ya pipe and silencer loose, undo your wiring, take your front and rear support bolts out( the rear also hold your swingarm in I place a hydro jack under it to help get it out and put it back in) also its a little easier if u take the rear wheels off but u dnt have to.
 
Thanks. It looked pretty straight forward, but like most things I think are straight forward, there are curves I don't account for.
 
lol thats life man listen if u run into any problems I'm on here every night pm me if u cant get me pm either awk08 or oconnor racing they r stand up guys. Hell bout anybody on here will help any way they can good luck man best advice is take a deep breath and just do it.
 
what you need to do is go to sears and get a broken bolt/stud extractor , I have one and it is the bees knees .
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Pretty Inexpensive too , I just used it this week-end to pull the head studs and the exhaust studs off my cylinder . the center cam swivels into place and basically becomes a Jam point , you use a 1/2" dr ratchet and it grabs the long surface area of the stud , not a small point , sop it spreads out the force along the long axis , not puts it all on one small point , which is sure to snap it off , plus PB blaster for 24 hours will help as well . good luck .