Bore stock cylinder to 240? Or buy a 240 sleeve off ebay?

TaylorMade44

TaylorMade44

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Feb 10, 2014
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Hey guys, I posted a thread here a couple weeks ago and you all were extremely helpful, I really appreciate it. Now I have a really important question about my engine. Here in a couple weeks I am taking my cylinder to st louis to have it bored, ported, and the head re chambered. My question is should I order a 240 sleeve to have the guy put in it? Or should I have my stock cylinder bored? I've already called the guy twice and I don't want to keep calling him. He knows a lot more than I do, and I get lost when he is talking. How big of a deal is it for a machinist to put a new sleeve in? He was only going to charge me 50 bucks to bore it, but I think he might have been under the impression of only boring it a little bit. But, no matter what I definitely want the 240cc!!!!!! I just want to know the best way to go about it! Thanks guys, I hope someone can answer my question!!!
 
It is a lot of work to install a sleeve into a cyinder. The old one needs to be machined out of there, then it needs to be bored to the 240 sleeve, heated and installed perfectly straight, cooled, bored, honed etc (brief explanation). The extra cc going to a big bore is not a huge gain until you add porting, pipe, etc etc. The list just goes on. I would just get it bored / honed as planned and get it back together. Porting would be on your next list of mods. If you are dead set on a 240 then a ported big bore on your list. :)
 
DUALSTROKE said:
It is a lot of work to install a sleeve into a cyinder. The old one needs to be machined out of there, then it needs to be bored to the 240 sleeve, heated and installed perfectly straight, cooled, bored, honed etc (brief explanation). The extra cc going to a big bore is not a huge gain until you add porting, pipe, etc etc. The list just goes on. I would just get it bored / honed as planned and get it back together. Porting would be on your next list of mods. If you are dead set on a 240 then a ported big bore on your list. :)
Click to expand...
He is going to port it no matter what. And re chamber the head. But I was really hoping to get 240cc out of the deal. So ok, we will scratch the idea of ordering the sleeve. But can he not just bore my current cylinder out to 240? What would be wrong with that? I keep hearing everyone say the 240 doesn't make a huge difference, it's the port work that does. I just have a hard time thinking a ported 200 could even come close to a ported 240
 
i say give a ported stock cylinder a try first, you'll be amazed by the power it's capable of, with the correct supporting mods...modified head, pipe, filter, reeds and properly jetted carb.

known fact...... a properly ported stock 200cc cylinder will run away from an unported 240cc


TaylorMade44 said:
But can he not just bore my current cylinder out to 240?
Click to expand...

nope, max on a stock cylinder is like 204cc
not worth overboring for the little gains and loss of future bores.

a properly ported 200cc w/ matching mods is very capable of doubling the stock 17HP to mid 30's HP.
add the 240 and maybe reach mid 40's
 
A stock cylinder is a 66.00 mm bore. The largest it can be bored to is 68.25. In order to run a big bore piston which starts at 72.00 mm you need a big bore sleeve. They bore the old sleeve out then have to take more material out, let's say 4mm for reference. Then the new one gets installed. Then the porting needs to be done. A good port job should take no less than 4-5 hrs. imo It can be done but there is a chain of commands so to say to follow in order to do it.
 
You guys are AWESOME, thank you so much. You totally answered my question. Apparently this guy does extremely good work. And you guys are pretty much telling me what he did, so it makes me feel better about the whole thing. Again, thanks guys for the quick and informative response. I'll post a pic when I'm all done with it.
 
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Do not get it resleeved unless you have to. I had KOR put a 240 sleeve in my cylinder because my cylinder could not be bored anymore. It was at 68.25. I have ridden ported cylinders and a ported 240 sleeved stock cylinder (Mine). IMO it's the porting, head rechambering, stroker crank, reeds, pipe, and other things that make a big difference.
 
So one more question. I assume he will port it the way he wants, he has built a ton of them apparently. But just incase I get there and he asks me what I want. What is the best timing port? I see most people say they have +4 ported, but guys I don't even know what that means haha. Sorry I'm a newbie... Is that pretty much standard? +4
 
One can advance the timing of the spark in 2 ways, by purchasing a offset woodruff key that locates the flywheel or by filing the mounting holes in the stator plate, then turning it clockwise about 3mm.

The advantage is that the available power comes on at a lower rev.
 
Blaaster said:
One can advance the timing of the spark in 2 ways, by purchasing a offset woodruff key that locates the flywheel or by filing the mounting holes in the stator plate, then turning it clockwise about 3mm.

The advantage is that the available power comes on at a lower rev.
Click to expand...

Don' forget the best and nicest looking way to do it is to get an adjustable timing plate for $35 and it has the + & - increments stamped on the plate for accuracy.
 
this video is really good because this is the cheapest way to advance your timing with out haveing to buy a offset woodruff key for $20 or a new stator place for $80, i personally couldnt find a stator plate for $35. this guy uses and 360 degree template its pretty slick and accurate. enjoy.
this video should help. if it doesnt work try copy and paste in address bar.
 
ryguy21s22 said:
this video is really good because this is the cheapest way to advance your timing with out haveing to buy a offset woodruff key for $20 or a new stator place for $80, i personally couldnt find a stator plate for $35. this guy uses and 360 degree template its pretty slick and accurate. enjoy.
this video should help. if it doesnt work try copy and paste in address bar.
Click to expand...
See above for timing plates for $35. I think it's easier to easier to just read a line than have to put a degree wheel on every time you want to change it or make changes. Plus most people do no have a degree wheel laying around. The plate just simplifies things.
 
DUALSTROKE said:
See above for timing plates for $35. I think it's easier to easier to just read a line than have to put a degree wheel on every time you want to change it or make changes. Plus most people do no have a degree wheel laying around. The plate just simplifies things.
Click to expand...
nice site i like it nice price for 35$, the degree wheel u print off and actually mark on ur stator with a fine point marker so its just a one time measure and adjustable from then on. this way could be for someone on more of a budget. just thinking of dollars spent is and tryin to help is all.
 
ryguy21s22 said:
nice site i like it nice price for 35$, the degree wheel u print off and actually mark on ur stator with a fine point marker so its just a one time measure and adjustable from then on. this way could be for someone on more of a budget. just thinking of dollars spent is and tryin to help is all.
Click to expand...
oops I guess I should of watched the entire vid. lol I just scanned through and took tid bits of info. That is good info for someone wanting to save the $.
 
With what I have seen about Ricky Stator products I wouldn't use it were it free :eek:
How many actually play with timing?
I did the plate mod, works fine!!
Like the T.V. comercial says "Set it and forget it"
If for some reason I can easily go back to stock.
+4 is about the most you want to go unless using exotic fuels or strictly drag racing.
 
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