Blaster won't start! help!!!!! tried everything i can think of

[dust1014]

I have a 99 blaster that i replaced the cylinder gasket on because it was blown. After i put it all back together it ran, but to start it i had to hold the throttle in and kick it over. As soon as i would let go of the throttle the engine would die, so naturally i adjusted the carb back to stock and messed with the throttle limit screw on the tors unit. As i turned the tors unit screw to the right and revved the engine it took a few seconds to rev back down. so i turned it to the left once and the engine quit on me and hasn't started since. That was a week ago and i have tested and cleaned and checked everything i can think of on this thing! I have a solid blue spark, gas going to the carb, gas coming out of the carb, adjusted carb correctly, reeds seem to be fine, good compression, the tors unit doesn't seem to be malfunctioning or i wouldn't get a spark to the engine. My quad is a 99 and i believe it never had a parking brake on it, so there is no Pbrake to bypass. I have checked all my wire connections and put dielectric grease on them. Things i haven't done but don't suspect to be bad: my key switch and kill switch (didn't check because there would be no spark if they were bad) Anything to do with the clutch as it is completely shot (but the quad ran before while it was shot so i don't think it could have suddenly affected the engine), I haven't checked engine fluids, i did notice i can see a gear when i take the oil cap off but i didn't run the quad enough to overheat it so i don't think that could be it. I did not do a leak down test because i no i have some compression as i had kickstarted the engine to get it running and the engine would run until i let off the throttle and when i tried adjusting the idle it won't run at all now. The last thing and the most plausible reason i can think of is the timing of the motor. I have only removed the flywheel cover and looked in but i have not even so much as touched it, but i don't think the timing can suddenly change while its running? can it??? The only response i get from my engine now is an occasional backfire and i even put gas straight into the cylinder and replaced the spark plug and kicked it over, nothing not even a single fire. I went as far as removing the carb, spraying starting fluid into the reed valves and kicking it over and still nothing! I have checked the spark plug numerous times, i have a strong blue spark, its a NGK b8es plug. CAN ANYBODY HELP ME????????

 

[Awk08]

the tors unit doesn't seem to be malfunctioning or i wouldn't get a spark to the engine

/\ this is not true, the tors unit does not prevent the bike from starting, only limits revving once started,
wether malfunctioning or actually functioning correctly if the throttle cable has broken or is stuck open,
it only limits revving, not prevent spark.

since your problems started when you were fooling with the tors idle adjust, i'd suspect something in the tors unit on top of the carb,
start by properly deleting the tors altogether: http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-remove-your-tors.655/
or get a tors delete kit from ebay. be sure it includes the cap, cable, idle screw and tap.

backfiring is one of 2 things: bad reeds or broken woodruff key allowing the flywheel to rotate out of timing.
check both again.

and try a new spark plug, if fouled (and they can foul instantly) they may spark when tested out of the pressure of the cylinder, but not fire when installed.

report back those findings

 

[dust1014]

Thanks! Out of all of those tips I feel that the woodruff key is sheared simply because when you turn over the engine slowly you hear a slight grinding noise that almost just sounds like the piston moving but i was kind of hesitant on it since it was so quite

 

[tbrooks]

Just because you have compression doesn't mean you can't have an airleak!

 

[speedyslyder]

why did gasket blow? base gasket or head gasket? if it was the head gasket i would check to see if the head is warped..did you do a compression test? this is what we know...gasket blew clutch is shot..sound neglected..did you completely remove the cylinder and inspect piston/rings/cylinder?...if you did not do compression test now is the time.$30 dollars auto parts store.im not sure if you mentioned it in your other post....flywheel puller is $10 dollars and a woodruff key is like $3 dollars www.rockymountainatv.com

 

[dust1014]

Gasket blew because the idiot before me broke the clutch cable when the clutch went bad and he loosened the cylinder bolt to get the cable holder off but he didnt tighten it back up properly, so the gasket blew on that side. I tore it apart replaced the gasket expecting to have to replace everything inside as well but the piston and rings checked out fine, no scoring or roughness anywhere. Compression test puts me at around 120 to 140 with two to three kicks is that good?

 

[dust1014]

Can a woodruff key just go bad like that? In the middle of the engine running just shear off and cause hell? The flywheel itself appears to be fine underneath I couldnt say until my flywheel puller gets shipped in

 

[dust1014]

Oh and to answer your question it was the base gasket of the cylinder, it was blown so bad that it would spray mist

 

[speedyslyder]

hmmm not saying it did but it could have threw the cylinder and or piston/rings out of round,problably got extremely hot to if it was ran like that.Did you see like burnt on crap underneath the piston next to the wrist pin? not saying this is your problem but a slipping clutch and blow base gasket,then it got riden for whoever long had to have done some damage

 

[dust1014]

No, it was really clean inside and after I had put everything together it ran fine just wouldnt idle and when I was adjusting the idle the engine just died on me and hasnt started at all never even fired again just an occasional backfire after kicking it over ten minutes straight, the piston and rings arent stock, it was bored 20 over maybe a year ago so it was all still pretty new so I wouldnt suspect that being the problem

 

[Blaaster]

Holy heck what some crappy observations and advice in this thread.

Let's get back to basics.

Have you leak tested.

Is the crankcase full of fuel, I would expect so if you dumped some in with no response.?

What is the float level setting and does it flood?

Have you tried a new plug?

Is the flywheel key intact.

Was there any crap in the carby, if so there is possibly more in it now from a dirty supply.


120 or 140 psi, which is it it should not vary that much?

The grinding noise could be the rings scraping piston deposits from the cylinder bore.

Pull the pipe off and look up the port to see if there is any piston/ring damage.

 

[dust1014]

Ok, thanks blaaster. I did not do a leakdown test, I have two good spark plugs, im not sure what the float level is at but whatever its set too was fine for it before, the carb is very clean and the fuel is brand new. I emptied the tank and cleaned it and put brand new 32:1 fuel in. The cylinder bore was clean when I tore it apart, I dont have a way to check the woodruff key until the tool comes in for the flywheel. Oh and the crankcase used to be full of fuel but I have gotten that out twice now

 

[Blaaster]

A crankcase full of fuel happens because of too high a float level setting, dirt in the needle and seat and a blocked drain hose.

Before you do anything else I urge you to do a leak test.

 

[dust1014]

Alright I will have my friend do the leak test on it tomorrow. So if it passes the test what else could it be??? Remember I even put gas in the cylinder and kicked it and it wouldnt even fire once. And I sprayed starting fluid right into the reed valves and still nothing

 

[Blaaster]

If it has a gut full of fuel, adding more or spraying more will make the condition worse.

You need to get the flywheel off and check the key.

I presume that you do have a strong bright blue spark.

You sprayed fluid into the reed valves, are you trying to start it with the carby off?

 

[dust1014]

Yeah I have a bright blue spark and the carb was off when I was spraying the starting fluid in, after that I put the carb on and tried the starting fluid thru the carb and no change. To get the fuel out of the engine just take the carb and exhaust off and kicking it will work right?

 

[Larry's Shee]

Yeah I have a bright blue spark and the carb was off when I was spraying the starting fluid in, after that I put the carb on and tried the starting fluid thru the carb and no change. To get the fuel out of the engine just take the carb and exhaust off and kicking it will work right?

That should work, worse case would be crank it to BDC and let it sit a day or so. Only drawback of 2s that I know of, once flooded in the crankcase you're jacked.

 

[Blaaster]

No need to remove the pipe or carby.

Turn off the fuel, drain the carb, take out the spark plug, hold the throttle wide open and kick over or drag the bike a while.

There will be enough oil in the crankcase for lubrication.

Put in a new plug and try to start it, you may need to put in a few plugs.

Whatever you do, keep your thumb off the throttle and make sure the carby is not flooding.

 

[tfaith08]

Any time you have a 2 stoke that you aren't 100% sure that it will pass a leak test, you should test it. The only times that I don't leak test one is when I have either watched someone do it or when I'm working on a brand new bike.

After your leak test, everything is safe while troubleshooting.

When you say getting fuel, do you mean that you're getting fuel out of the fuel line or do you mean that you're getting fuel though the carb? Clean the carb, set the float height, and go ahead and check your jetting while it's apart. Make sure that the drain lines are clear. Also, retain (or fabricate) a keeper for the slide cover.

And compression of 120-140 is, as Blaaster said, quite a gap. Did you hold the throttle open? Also, to get accurate and repeatable readings, kick it over several times. Kicking it until it maxes out is fine because 2-3 kicks can range from 2 little biotch kicks to 3 "I almost broke my kickstater" kicks. That'll be a difference of as much as half.

Upload a pic of your flywheel with the piston at TDC. The angle between the pickup and the magnet will tell you if that's a problem. Take it straight on. OR, take a protractor and give us a dead-accurate, no-sh*t angle between the pickup and the magnet. Out of 360 degrees, it isn't very likely that your flywheel will be lined up where it's supposed to be. OR, go ahead and take it off if you've received the puller.

NOTE: Backfire will occur with inadequate fuel.

 

[Blaaster]

I love the way it was explained in the above post, and yes unless the starting AFR is correct it may backfire wether lean or rich.