So I have a 06 blaster that I just put new pistons and jug on did proper break in. And went to get on for first time to ride and run first tank through it and put it in gear and start out fine give it any throttle and just boggs bad let off and will idle and put along. Revs good till bout 4000 in neutral then boggs also. So mods are stock head jug and piston fmf power core 2 full exhaust. And the fmf dynojet jetting kit. Bought it blown up so don't know what ran like before. I did the Jett kit with the rebuild customers old piston looked like it got to hit from being lean
Blaster won't rev in gear
- Thread starter Benjamin wagar
- Start date
Never trust jet kits they seldom have the correct marked jets.
What jetting did you end up with?
Did you leak test the engine before you started it?
Did you use the needle from the jet kit?
What jetting did you end up with?
Did you leak test the engine before you started it?
Did you use the needle from the jet kit?
Ok yes used needle from jet kit using the 230 jet. No didn't do leak down test will do the and been looking in to the tores
STOP !!
Back away from the Blaster,
DO NOT START IT !!
Until you have the correct jet in it !! Back away from the Blaster,
DO NOT START IT !!
No mention of air filter setup ? Forget where most end up with, but every engine is different !! I'd say start with a 300 and work your way down. ALWAYS start large and work your way down. Probably end up with a 280. Or so, but you have to work progressively down , can't try a 300 and find it's rich and jump to a 280 , because it might be lean.
Then you also have bigger jets for cold weather.
Hopefully you haven't already done damage by trying to make it run while being so lean
agreed^^^^ I figured it would be in the 280-90 range. If its 350 its most def wrong lol. Go to your local yamaha parts counter, ask for 300-280 jets. Yes you can buy them online but every local dealer that has a parts counter will have jets in stock.
Ok
It's d stock airborne and air cleaner and won't start it till get 300 jets
So I took the carb apart and it was a 360 jet in there have not gone and got 300 and 280 jets yet and haven't tried to state it either
Ok so got the tors delete kit and installed it put 280 jet in and it runs and can go through gears but not like it should 1st and 2nd are crap no low end at all have to putt 3 4 5 6 are better low end and some top end but it cuts out like it's getting killed till I let off then it's fine and if I give it just a little it's ok but try to give more throttle it cuts out is it the throttle position sensor or the teacher witch it seams to run the same with teather off as on I'm stumped
So I removed the teather completely and realised I didn't do the full tors till of read the post on how to splice the wires to fool ecu. But it still bogs bad in first and second. Will eventually rev hi in 3 4 but cuts out in 5 and 6
Ok I feel like an idiot I took carb apart and checked every thing then checked float level and it was way off so set it to correct level 21mm and runs great now.
290 main, 32.5 pilot, needle in middle position, Air screw 1.5 turns out, adjust idle screw. Double check reeds and make sure your intake manifold isn't leaking. Put some kind of gasket maker like rtv/copper gasket maker.
Ok so 290 main jet air screw 1.5 mad sure float level is in speck and needle Is good runs good atlow to mid rpm but still kinda boggy at mid to mid high and I have to give it medium throttle if I pin it it just boggs like bad but if I stay mid throttle it pulled out of bogg at mid and revs good to high for the most part what could be going on
Plug chop the main jet and at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle.
The idle speed needs setting as 1 1/2 turn out on the air screw is only the starting point.
The idle speed needs setting as 1 1/2 turn out on the air screw is only the starting point.
