You need to buy or make a case splitting tool to remove/replace the crankshaft.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/diy-crank-puller-43994/
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/diy-crank-puller-43994/
Last edited:
blaster smoking really bad
- Thread starter ford18218
- Start date
oh no dude. this sounds bad. a ton of smoke and oil comin out the exhaust. now you say there is a broken pistonskirt. you have a hole in the cases.. I would say a 95% chance of that
You need this http://www.blasterforum.com/general-support-17/downloadable-yamaha-blaster-manual-17325/ or a Clymers manual, http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/diy-crank-puller-43994/ and this , and this Tusk Flywheel Puller | ATV | Rocky Mountain ATV/MC 
Case is split found a nickel size hole by the crank chamber so im guessing this is why it wouldn't shift cause the piece was jamming gears gonna get a new case it was the right side so clutch side wherre it was broke so after that anyone got a video or pics on how to put it back together lol so i know for sure i dont f*ck it up
Old thread i no but hoping i can get some help.....basically i done an oil change on my balster and noticed about only 400ml of old oil came out.....anyways i changed the oil (650ml) of motul 10w30 and took it out for a spin......i started to notice that there was alot of smoke comin from the exhaust and oil in the tip? i run a fatty exhaust (which spooges from the flange and is currently getting a new gasket and some rvt sealer)....i jus never had this problem until i changed the oil and am now thinkin that the crank seals mite be shot and the top up of oil has made its way through some holes? all the threads i read point to that but im hoping its jus the exhaust issue......i havent done a leak test but the bike starts and runs great...jus smokey now? its a blueish white but dont smell overlly bad like tranny fluid burnin? i have sprayed the bike with sopay water while its runnin to see if i can spot a leak....only place air is comin out is the exhaust flange.....i will take off the top end to make sure the piston is ok.....any advise is greatly appreciatedI:I
my spec
stock engine with .025 bore
fatty pipe with powercore 2
standard carb 260 main 32.5 pilot
airbox lid on cos runs sh*t without it
my spec
stock engine with .025 bore
fatty pipe with powercore 2
standard carb 260 main 32.5 pilot
airbox lid on cos runs sh*t without it
No need to remove the head to inspect.
When you remove the pipe to leak down test it, you can look up the exhaust port to inspect the piston.
An air leak at the exhaust flange will upset the jetting, you need to fix that.
Soapy water does crap good, as when it is running it sucks and will not make bubbles.
I see you tried to run it without the air box lid, did you change the main jet and plug chop to confirm that you got it right.
If you pre mix at 32:1 you may need a #270 or #280 main.
When you remove the pipe to leak down test it, you can look up the exhaust port to inspect the piston.
An air leak at the exhaust flange will upset the jetting, you need to fix that.
Soapy water does crap good, as when it is running it sucks and will not make bubbles.
I see you tried to run it without the air box lid, did you change the main jet and plug chop to confirm that you got it right.
If you pre mix at 32:1 you may need a #270 or #280 main.
thanks for the info blaaster.....well i stripped the top end....piston is sweet and so is cylinder......there was a sh*tload of carbon on the exhaust port so spent an hour with some 280 and 600 wet/dry and she's gleamin! i do run a premix at 32:1 (super unleaded with castrol power 2t).....after exhaust and 260 was installed it ran great with air box lid on.....tried it with the lid off an ran sh*t so jus left it on....no biggy for me.....tho i have jus ordered a new k & N but plan to leave the lid on still.....my copper exhaust gasket arrived an have fixed the leaky flange....also im goin to weld the fatty onto the flange to be sure it NEVER leaks from that spot. when i took the head off there was a pool of oil at the bottom of the crank...i absorbed a bit onto a bit of kitchen towel an it was browny oil that smelt jus like my mix but my mix is red? wud this be tranny oil leaking through? i dont want to have to split cases but if i have to i will just order a new weisco bottom end rebuild kit for £140 and do it myself.....hopefully! iv owed the bike for a year now and i dont no the last time the bottom end was done.....iv done a top end after a seizure so maybe its jus time and safer to do the bottom?
There is supposed to be a pool of oil in the bottom of the crankase.
Before you start it , put the same amount back in.
2 strokes get their lubrication from oil which drops out of suspension from the pre mix.
It pools in the crancase and gets splashed around by the moving parts.
There is absolutly no lubricating properties in premixed gas.
I read you have had a previous seizure, why did that hapopen?
Did you do a leak down test, heat cycles, break in and a plug chop to see if it was jetted correctly, after it was rebuilt.
Before you start it , put the same amount back in.
2 strokes get their lubrication from oil which drops out of suspension from the pre mix.
It pools in the crancase and gets splashed around by the moving parts.
There is absolutly no lubricating properties in premixed gas.
I read you have had a previous seizure, why did that hapopen?
Did you do a leak down test, heat cycles, break in and a plug chop to see if it was jetted correctly, after it was rebuilt.
The previous seizure was due to over heatin an possibly a lack of oil-was at the beginning when I first got the bike-was flat out on it for few hours with little breaks-was a total noob then but still learnin an lovin it-jus not the cost so gonna try do everything write-I only dipped the end of the kitchen paper in to see the colour-still a wee pool down there-my con rod has about 1mm play side to side but no up and down play...still contemplating the bottom rebuild or building the top end back up now it's all clean an fully sealed with new air filter on route and fresh plugs to do a few chops-I still need to do a leak test but will have to make one on modify one o can get of a mechanic
New gaskets for that top end. Leakdown test it before you fire it up. It sure sounds like the problem all along was your clutch side crank seal. Have you replaced that? Now you will have to do heat cycles and retourqe your nutts for the topend. The leak down tester is your best friend, it will save you many dollars if you use it.
Providing the carb is jetted right, and you mixed at 32:1, the motor would love being flat out for hours, as it would not be starving for oil.
Overheating was possibly caused by having a size too small main jet.
One size too small and the motor could run like a scalded cat, but slowly but suerly fry the piston.
1mm side play and no up and down is within specs.
If the crank main bearings feel smooth on rotation, the bottom end should be sweet to run. Change the seals though.
Bump a bigger main jet in there and plug chop.
when the bike first seized it was completely stock with standard 230 main jet....the piston wrist pin was blue showing signs of extreme heat which made me think of lack of oil and overheating...the piston didn't break just scored and scraped a line in the cylinder...other people told me that these bikes should only be run flat out for no more than 30 min at a time as they are only air cooled, then let them fully cool and let rip again? that's the way i usually do it to play safe.....haven replaced seals yet...everything feels smooth and as it should so hoping i don't have to split the cases just yet....can i replace the seals without splitting...i no i have to take the clutch off so i need to drain oil an everything again? torque wrench is at the ready, top end gasket kit on its way, new exhaust gasket on, flange air tight and the k & N arrived this morning so i'm fully cleaning under the seat and air box......will have to build a leak tester cos i no it will answer my over all question of a bottom end rebuild....
If the original motor was running a #230 main with 32:1, I may have been running lean enough to slowly fry the piston.
I have heard so many sagas of fried pistons, after deleting oil injection, without re jetting to compensate for the oil in the gas leaning out the mix.
If you ride for 30, 35, 40, 50 or 60 minutes flat out, the engine is not going to get any hotter than riding it flat out for 10 minutes.
Unless the ambient air temperature is very high, the air flowing over the fins of the jug and head, and the large amount of fuel being delivered to the motor, will be sufficient to keep it cool enough, unless you are jetted on the leaner side of optimum.
You do not need to split the cases to swap out the crank oil seals.
I have heard so many sagas of fried pistons, after deleting oil injection, without re jetting to compensate for the oil in the gas leaning out the mix.
If you ride for 30, 35, 40, 50 or 60 minutes flat out, the engine is not going to get any hotter than riding it flat out for 10 minutes.
Unless the ambient air temperature is very high, the air flowing over the fins of the jug and head, and the large amount of fuel being delivered to the motor, will be sufficient to keep it cool enough, unless you are jetted on the leaner side of optimum.
You do not need to split the cases to swap out the crank oil seals.
yea i bought the bike with head issues...think u commented on a post of mine in a previous thread with the loose head bolts....it wasn't long after that she lay down on me! there was a slight piston slap so i replaced the rings, new gaskets, re torqued all lovely, heat cycled and then drive hard for 4 weeks.....the the unmistakable feeling of a dyiny powerband to a slow stop and a seized kickstart....tho after it cooled it was freed up but i jus stripped the bike an done a new top end build.....a year later here i am! i am in the process of waitin on my order of a fuel pressure kit that i can modify into a leak tester....will fully no whats happen when it arrives.....all new parts waitin to go on....tres excitin! fingers crossed shes air tight or its just the seals away an not the cases!! thanks for all the help blaaster....i say u'll be hearin from me soon!!
Hello again!.....well i built my leak tester and guess what.....i have a leak!! as soon as i pumped air into the engine i could hear it immediately come out of the breather tube.....i thot this was not normal so i blocked the tube to see if i had any more leaks.....alot of air is coming through the drive shaft which the front sprocket attaches too...also some air is leaking from the clutch cable spring above the stator cover (where the cable meets the bottom end)!?! the fact that air come out the breather tube im guessing means there is a serious leak between the cases or could it just be clutch/crank seals? there doesnt seem to be any bubbles on the cluth side, just the breather hole, drive shaft and clutch cable spring? iv excepted the fate that im gonna have to do a full bottom end rebuild...all the specialised tools (spliter, crank installer and fly wheel puller) are gonna cost £140 ($220) delivered and a weisco bootom end kit is £140 delivered....but i no what ur gonna say...weisco are sh*t cos their cranks arent factory balanced....iv seen the video and read the threads.....but im plannin to run a stock stroke, this bike gets (got) a quick blast every day but never raced....although im tempted by the 3mil vito crank as more power is always nice...plus i done a DIY port and polish (very mild) and heard the cases dont have to be trenched unless i put in a 4mil hotrod? any advice, experience or caution is much welcomed!I:I
It may be only the crank seals that need replacing and you can do that without splitting the cases.
Air leaking from the vent means either a leaky crank seal on the transmission side , or a crack or hole between the crankcase and transmission.
If you have the ready money to do a complete bottom end then go for it.
Providing the motor has been well lubricated, supplied with clean air and a piston has not exploded, a bottom end should last for many years.
When you have the jug off you should be able to test for tolerences, do that before you deciede to shell out good cash.
If you have the ready money to do a complete bottom end then go for it.
Providing the motor has been well lubricated, supplied with clean air and a piston has not exploded, a bottom end should last for many years.
When you have the jug off you should be able to test for tolerences, do that before you deciede to shell out good cash.
well i hope its the former and not the latter!! crank seals would make sense with the amount of smoke that suddenly started to come from the exhaust aswell as dripping oil....when i changed the oil 300ml came out and 650ml went back in and she started smoking...makes me think crank seals....with it leakin air from the drive shaft would this suggest bad seals there also? the top end is 100%....nothings broke off of floating about the bottom end....bike will still run pefect but i jus dont want to do any further damage! what are these tolerance tests and how do i go carrying them out? lovin all ur help here Blaaster!!
No problems.
Take advice, do not ride it with a leaky crank seal, it undoubtly will be running lean because of air being sucked through with the oil.
It may well seem to run well, but a slightly lean mix will perform extremly well but slowly but surely fry a piston.
You will find the tolerences in this free manual, seation 2 page 4.
http://www.rydindirty.com/blastermanual.pdf
Take advice, do not ride it with a leaky crank seal, it undoubtly will be running lean because of air being sucked through with the oil.
It may well seem to run well, but a slightly lean mix will perform extremly well but slowly but surely fry a piston.
You will find the tolerences in this free manual, seation 2 page 4.
http://www.rydindirty.com/blastermanual.pdf
