Blaster Rebuild
- Thread starter Blaster528
- Start date
Update# So tonight I was trying to instal the crank. I tried heating the bearing and dropping it in but it only went in 1/2 way and got stuck. I was forced to rig up a puller, but it still didn't go all the way. At the end of the night I ended up with a stripped crank 
Yay
Yay
Yea I ended up picking up a used oem cylinder on CL for 20 bucks. Got it cleaned up and bored. Ive been looking around for pistons to get. Any recommendations? I plan on keeping this blaster for a while.
Really?!?! With all the posts out there you haven't found out that wiseco is the way to go? Don't cheap out on Pistons or cylinders, glad that you went with oem
You need to have the piston BEFORE the cylinder is bored. It must be bored to match the piston.
Better get real on this...There are lots to choose from when it comes to pistons. Wiseco is not the ultimate piston. Don't base your findings on internet opinions. Lost of good pistons to pick from. It depends on the application.
Fact: Wiseco cranks are very much hit and miss on quality. Something to worry about.
Your right there I forgot about cast. I think it would be wise to choose from wiseco, vertex, pro lite, or maybe namura. How scarred is cylinder? I had to go from 66 to 66.50 because mine was pretty jagged. Have piston before cylinder gets bored. Use oem gaskets, make sure jetting is checked if you have a pipe. Why did you need a new top end? Did you leak test it before it was taken apart. Hope this helps
Another update!! Got one blaster completely back together yesterday, I ended up honing the cylinder and putting some new rings in. It also has new clutch, main bearings, oil seals, new/ used crank. I'll take some pictures and videos later. It sounds weird though, however I think it's just the air box. I patched it up the best I could.
I haven't taken the blaster apart yet. I just have the cylinder right now. And I had a friend of mine clean up the cylinder but he didn't tell me any measurements. I need a new top end because there is what I think to be piston slap. I have not leak tested it and do not know how to perform a leak test. I don't know much about jetting either. And it came with an FMF pipe.
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Finally!!!!!
Almost ready to be put back together, just have to take clutch cover off and put in new seal. Cylinder took forever... $110 for bore, hone, chamfer. It came out great though. Hopefully the crows foot will allow me to access the base nuts.
Almost ready to be put back together, just have to take clutch cover off and put in new seal. Cylinder took forever... $110 for bore, hone, chamfer. It came out great though. Hopefully the crows foot will allow me to access the base nuts.
Looks good boss. I use a crowsfoot wrench on my torque wrench when I do the base nuts. Works very well.
Well I ran into another setback. Whoever built this engine didn't own a manual, or now what they were doing. The idler gear had no washers on it, so it was bouncing around. The clutch inner basket was broke, the spring and screw were no where to be found. They didn't torque down the nut holding the clutch so it spun off freely. They had the conical washer in between the baskets, no spacers or anything. So the basket moved ALOT. Looks like I'm going to take parts off my other one . Hopefully the play in the clutch was causing neutral to be hard to find, I don't want any transmission problems.
. Hopefully the play in the clutch was causing neutral to be hard to find, I don't want any transmission problems.Similar threads
