I'm new here,but have been lurking a very long time. I've read many threads about oil injection removal,oil injection block off kits,etc,etc,etc,etc.
I must say that I have NEVER seen one fail...EVER. Not saying it couldn't happen.but I'm just saying that alot of people get sucked into the hysteria,or popularity of removing it without looking at the benefits of the seemless system.
I've done lots of porting over the years,squish band heads,ets,etc,and must say that the yamaha auto lube has no problems keeping up with these modifications. If you've stripped the system from your blaster because of the looks,which isn't terrible in my opinion,or stripped it from your blaster to save weight at the races,I totally get it. I also get it when blaster owners say they like to mix the own oil/fuel ratios.
But... for me... I have never had any issues WHAT SO EVER. The engine gets plenty of lubrication,burns clean,and is maintainence free other than filling the oil tank.
When I've torn down these engines down for inspections,I've never seen any wear on the pistons,rings and bore unlike the blasters that have been converted to pre mix. No cylinder taper,or out of round. Just nice clean parts with no wear (or very minimal). I think proper jetting on my part is also important,and probably why I have never had any issues such as fouled plugs,hard starting,low power,etc,etc,etc.
my buddy's blaster (which I also did the port work on) and mine are ridden on 60-80 mile rides into the hot Nevada desert all the time. I'm talking to the middle of "no mans land",where if you had a problem,you would have a VERY long walk ahead of you,because cell phones do not work where we go. Hot weather (high 80's to high 90's) doesn't phase the engines either.
The reason of my thread here is just to say that the auto lube injection system is a very good system that alot of people have put down,not knowing anything about it. Its kind of like all the threads that I have read on here about the TORS system. So many people have said that its a "rev limiter"and that they got an increase in power after removing it...no its not a rev limiter. The blaster doesn't have one. Then I read that it shuts off the fuel supply (closes the carb) if there is an issue and goes full throttle...no.. it does not shut off the fuel supply. It kills the ignition. Its just an interupter for the cdi if the throttle switch and carb swith don't "match" one another. I get the reason why this is removed by most people. I removed mine too,but only so I could remove the box on on top of the carb for a cleaner look and a bit more room.
One other thing... If your new to the blaster engine and would like to port your own cylinder, I would like to recommend "Sport Port" porting templates by race logic. These will surprise the hell out of you! If you and a few buddies pooled your money for the templates and tools,and were willing to put some elbow grease into the time porting,you will be rewarded with a super reliable "Aggresive Trail Ported" cylinder on the cheap.
Just don't ruin your work with too big a carburetor (you don't want to kill the air velocity) Too big a carb absolutely SUCKS. A good pipe is a MUST! we're at 4,500 feet above sea level,and are getting around 30hp and super reliability. A squish band head ups it a bit more. As an example how well these templates work...... with the stock mikuni VM26 carb we had to go from a stock #230 main jet to a #340 main jet. The throttle response is phenominal,because of the air velocity through the 26mm carb. You can have your flat slides. Velocity is everything!
Anyway,if you've read this thanks a bunch. If you have any questions,let me know. I know what has worked for me.
I must say that I have NEVER seen one fail...EVER. Not saying it couldn't happen.but I'm just saying that alot of people get sucked into the hysteria,or popularity of removing it without looking at the benefits of the seemless system.
I've done lots of porting over the years,squish band heads,ets,etc,and must say that the yamaha auto lube has no problems keeping up with these modifications. If you've stripped the system from your blaster because of the looks,which isn't terrible in my opinion,or stripped it from your blaster to save weight at the races,I totally get it. I also get it when blaster owners say they like to mix the own oil/fuel ratios.
But... for me... I have never had any issues WHAT SO EVER. The engine gets plenty of lubrication,burns clean,and is maintainence free other than filling the oil tank.
When I've torn down these engines down for inspections,I've never seen any wear on the pistons,rings and bore unlike the blasters that have been converted to pre mix. No cylinder taper,or out of round. Just nice clean parts with no wear (or very minimal). I think proper jetting on my part is also important,and probably why I have never had any issues such as fouled plugs,hard starting,low power,etc,etc,etc.
my buddy's blaster (which I also did the port work on) and mine are ridden on 60-80 mile rides into the hot Nevada desert all the time. I'm talking to the middle of "no mans land",where if you had a problem,you would have a VERY long walk ahead of you,because cell phones do not work where we go. Hot weather (high 80's to high 90's) doesn't phase the engines either.
The reason of my thread here is just to say that the auto lube injection system is a very good system that alot of people have put down,not knowing anything about it. Its kind of like all the threads that I have read on here about the TORS system. So many people have said that its a "rev limiter"and that they got an increase in power after removing it...no its not a rev limiter. The blaster doesn't have one. Then I read that it shuts off the fuel supply (closes the carb) if there is an issue and goes full throttle...no.. it does not shut off the fuel supply. It kills the ignition. Its just an interupter for the cdi if the throttle switch and carb swith don't "match" one another. I get the reason why this is removed by most people. I removed mine too,but only so I could remove the box on on top of the carb for a cleaner look and a bit more room.
One other thing... If your new to the blaster engine and would like to port your own cylinder, I would like to recommend "Sport Port" porting templates by race logic. These will surprise the hell out of you! If you and a few buddies pooled your money for the templates and tools,and were willing to put some elbow grease into the time porting,you will be rewarded with a super reliable "Aggresive Trail Ported" cylinder on the cheap.
Just don't ruin your work with too big a carburetor (you don't want to kill the air velocity) Too big a carb absolutely SUCKS. A good pipe is a MUST! we're at 4,500 feet above sea level,and are getting around 30hp and super reliability. A squish band head ups it a bit more. As an example how well these templates work...... with the stock mikuni VM26 carb we had to go from a stock #230 main jet to a #340 main jet. The throttle response is phenominal,because of the air velocity through the 26mm carb. You can have your flat slides. Velocity is everything! Anyway,if you've read this thanks a bunch. If you have any questions,let me know. I know what has worked for me.
