Hello all. I am new to quads and bought a used 2002 yamaha blaster. It is stock as far as I can tell. I bought it in a package deal with a honda which was what I was really after and that one runs perfect. However, the blaster has a LOT of wear. Anyway we took the quads to the dunes and my son was riding the blaster when it quit running. Upon inspection I noted that the jet had worked its way out of the carburetor and was gone. I got a rebuild kit from the Yamaha dealer and went through the carburetor, cleaning the entire thing out and replacing jets, needles, float valves, etc. When I put everything back together and attempted to start it (using the 1.5 turns out that the dealer advised I should start with) it does not start. I checked the plug and it was black and fouled. I replaced that but cannot seem to get a spark (I removed the plug from the head, placed in the wire and attempted to ground against the head (aluminum) and frame (steel) and see no spark. Does anyone have any ideas on what the problem is? It sounds like no gas when I kick it but I cannot get a visible spark either. When I move the throttle it moves easily without resistence until the last 1/8 inch of travel or so and then I feel cable resistence and hear movement at the carburetor. So I am not sure if it is ignition, throttle problem (put back together and tested before putting carb back on bike and throttle valve seemed to be working properly then) or something else. Is it a coincidence and I sheared a key in the stator or something? Is the coil bad though it worked fine up until the problem at the dunes? Driving me buggy!
Blaster Carburetor (I Think)
- Thread starter usaemtp
- Start date
heres a troubleshooting/maintenece guide, run down threw as many of these as you can and report back
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/my-general-troubleshooting-maintenance-30347/
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/my-general-troubleshooting-maintenance-30347/
Thanks for your responses everyone. Here is where I am at: I took the carburetor back off and went through it to be sure that there was nothing else clogging one of the jets. In the process I found some sand particles in the starter jet port. Also, I removed the main nozzle from the carburetor and cleaned it up. I reassembled everything after checking to be sure that no ports were clogged and everything was clean. I checked the reeds to be sure that they were functioning. I put the bike back together. I tested the spark both with and without the TORS connected. I get a spark regardless and it seems to work in time with the crankshaft rotation. I have attempted starting both with and without the TORS. The result is the same: Nothing. I am getting fire near as I can tell, but no ignition. I have tried with the adjustment screw 1.5 turns out and worked out from there. The only change I notice as I adjust the screw is that as I back it out I occasionally spits a woosh of air out the tail on kicking. Any ideas?
you still have dirt in the carb, completely disassemble it, all jets, floats, float valve, choke, clean all orifices with carb cleaner and blow out with a compressor, and check the float level too
it should be 20-21.5mm, adjust the tang by bending it slightly
measured like this...........
it should be 20-21.5mm, adjust the tang by bending it slightly
measured like this...........
Last edited:
awk08,
Thanks for the advice. I actually pulled it apart again and did just that. Everything was double checked and clean. I also checked the float height and it is set at 21mm. I had a thought though...since this is a 2 cycle with an intermixer, where is the fuel and oil mixed? Is it done in the carburetor or is it done in the auto-lube pump on the side of the engine (though I see no fuel line running from carburetor to the pump). The reason I ask is that there is a small black tube (about 1/8 in dia) that goes from a port on the right side of the carburetor into the cover on the right side of the engine. When I was disconnecting this oil delivery tube (from the autolube pump, I believe) it stretched a bit on initial carburetor removal. I wasn't sure what this tube was for but now am wondering if it would have anything to do with my problem or am I just fishing?
Anyway, plug is still dry when I crank it without the plugwire. No fuel seems to be getting into the head and I am wondering where it could be getting blocked. Bowl is full and when I take carb apart there seems to be fuel in the throttle body portion of the carb.
Thanks for the advice. I actually pulled it apart again and did just that. Everything was double checked and clean. I also checked the float height and it is set at 21mm. I had a thought though...since this is a 2 cycle with an intermixer, where is the fuel and oil mixed? Is it done in the carburetor or is it done in the auto-lube pump on the side of the engine (though I see no fuel line running from carburetor to the pump). The reason I ask is that there is a small black tube (about 1/8 in dia) that goes from a port on the right side of the carburetor into the cover on the right side of the engine. When I was disconnecting this oil delivery tube (from the autolube pump, I believe) it stretched a bit on initial carburetor removal. I wasn't sure what this tube was for but now am wondering if it would have anything to do with my problem or am I just fishing?
Anyway, plug is still dry when I crank it without the plugwire. No fuel seems to be getting into the head and I am wondering where it could be getting blocked. Bowl is full and when I take carb apart there seems to be fuel in the throttle body portion of the carb.
I would want to do a block off on the oil pump. Check all pump lines and make sure the system is bleed. I would recheck them reeds real close. Hold them up to a light to make sure there's no gaps.
What's a blockoff? Is that just bypassing the mixing so I would do it manually? I will look at bleeding the lines but the cylinder is still coming up dry. What else would stop fuel from entering the reeds? What about that throttle control mess that sits on top of the carburetor (that the TORS wires come out of)? I see a large adjustment screw on that. Should I be looking at this monster for anything? Should I try disconnecting all the TORS wires again and see if I can at least get fuel into the cylinder? I checked resistence on the stator and everything is fine there. I get a steady spark on the plug when I hold it to the side of the head but do I need to check that coil for voltage or anything? I know I keep jumping back and forth between electrical and mechanical but I am not sure. And what do the reeds do, exactly?
the tors will shut down spark, not fuel
oil is injected into the carb as a spray, mixing on its way in
if there is even the slightest question is it working, eliminate it and pre mix 32:1
try turning the big thumb screw on that tors box on top of the carb, it's possible its closed to far not allowing any air to pass and pick up fuel on it's way thru ???
clockwise is more idle i believe < been a long time since i've had one
oil is injected into the carb as a spray, mixing on its way in
if there is even the slightest question is it working, eliminate it and pre mix 32:1
try turning the big thumb screw on that tors box on top of the carb, it's possible its closed to far not allowing any air to pass and pick up fuel on it's way thru ???
clockwise is more idle i believe < been a long time since i've had one
That big screw on top of the toes is the idle adjustment. Nothing in the toes stops the flow of fuel. You said you cleaned your carb well and have spark but have a dry plug. I still feel its the reeds. Seal the back of the carb with your hand and kick it over a couple of times. See if you feel it trying to blow your hand of the carb
Thanks again! I am putting the bugger up for the night and gonna start fresh tomorrow. I will start with bleeding the oil pump and checking that screw. Question: If I disable the TORS, does the screw deactivate or do I have to mess with that thing no matter what I do with the TORS? Otherwise, I guess I will have to take the carb off and go through it again...Will check the reeds again. Not familiar with them so I don' really know what to look for as far as adjustment and what not. I take it that there must be full closure at rest (not running) so I will take them out and look to see that there are no gaps or cracks or anything. Can't think what else would stop fuel.
OOPS! You guys are fast. Got the explanation on the screw. Will check the reeds tomorrow. What do I look for?
Are you completely dissassembling carb? You can get air to blow thru ALL little holes? Both in the bowl area and any in the throat? Are you taking choke out? Are you using choke when starting? Are ALL the little holes on side of pilot jet open? Is the idle air screw 1 1/2 turns out ? Are you using a new gasket or at least sealer every time you take reeds out? Sealer between cage and boot?
Large screw raises or lowers throttle slide for idle, air screw on side of carb adjusts air/fuel ratio for 0-1/8 throttle.
Large screw raises or lowers throttle slide for idle, air screw on side of carb adjusts air/fuel ratio for 0-1/8 throttle.
Well folks I have an update: I did a compression test on the cylinder and noted that I could only get about 30 PSI out of it. When I squirted a little oil down the cylinder the compression rose to about 60 PSI. So I am guessing that the cylinder and/or rings are a problem. I am not sure how that could have occurred with a lost air jet but there you go. I guess the next step is to take the motor apart. Any suggestions?
