how do you set the timing on bayou 220? i got one with spark, fuel, and air. it dont run tho. its a 89
bayou timing?
- Thread starter 88' blaster
- Start date
I'm working TOTALLY off of memory here so bear with me but here's the jist of it!
Just behind the pull starter assembly there is an inspection plug on top of the case. It's a large round plug with a flat blade drive slot in it. Some find it easier to open using a nickel or quarter but that plug has to be removed. You then pull the starter rope until a "-T-" is visible in the window. As long as your flywheel key is good, that's TDC.
You then remove the timing chain inspection cover on the left side of the engine head (the one with the crankcase vent black rubber tube running into it) and look at the cam gear below it. At the very "top" (inline with the cylinder, NOT the ground!) of the cover mounting boss there is a small "V" groove cut into the cylinder head. The notch marked KLF220 should be pointed directly at that mark. If it's not, you have to remove, compress, and "cage" the timing chain tensioner. Most are compressed via removal of the M6 access bolt hole on the back (the one straight off the back, not the two mounting bolts) and inserting a flat blade screwdriver and rotating the screwdriver clockwise. Once the plunger is pulled the whole way in, a small flat piece of thin metal must be inserted into the opening of the plunger to keep the assembly from unrolling.
Once the timing chain tensioner has been removed from the cylinder, the timing chain should be able to be "limped" over the top sprocket one tooth at a time. Be VERY careful not to let the chain fall down or turn over the engine with the chain loose. Check before you're all done that the "-T-" is still visible in the middle of the inspection hole before releasing the tensioner.
You always take out the slack of the timing chain to the front side too (the pull side) before releasing the tensioner as well!
Just behind the pull starter assembly there is an inspection plug on top of the case. It's a large round plug with a flat blade drive slot in it. Some find it easier to open using a nickel or quarter but that plug has to be removed. You then pull the starter rope until a "-T-" is visible in the window. As long as your flywheel key is good, that's TDC.
You then remove the timing chain inspection cover on the left side of the engine head (the one with the crankcase vent black rubber tube running into it) and look at the cam gear below it. At the very "top" (inline with the cylinder, NOT the ground!) of the cover mounting boss there is a small "V" groove cut into the cylinder head. The notch marked KLF220 should be pointed directly at that mark. If it's not, you have to remove, compress, and "cage" the timing chain tensioner. Most are compressed via removal of the M6 access bolt hole on the back (the one straight off the back, not the two mounting bolts) and inserting a flat blade screwdriver and rotating the screwdriver clockwise. Once the plunger is pulled the whole way in, a small flat piece of thin metal must be inserted into the opening of the plunger to keep the assembly from unrolling.
Once the timing chain tensioner has been removed from the cylinder, the timing chain should be able to be "limped" over the top sprocket one tooth at a time. Be VERY careful not to let the chain fall down or turn over the engine with the chain loose. Check before you're all done that the "-T-" is still visible in the middle of the inspection hole before releasing the tensioner.
You always take out the slack of the timing chain to the front side too (the pull side) before releasing the tensioner as well!
