Thanks, man. Nice offer. Somethings just have to be dealt with though, and if it hadn't been me, then it probably woulda been you.
Another PJ34 jetting thread
- Thread starter royalt67
- Start date
I AM A PJ34 GOD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Well, maybe not. But I did figure out the problem! FLOAT SETTING IS CRITICAL, not just important but critical. The float looked fine at first glance, but then I realized it had been set with the carb fully inverted, so that the spring loaded needle was depressed. What looked like 16mm from the gasket surface to the top (or bottom depending on how you look at it) of the float was really about 21-22mm, maybe more. This made my fuel level extremely low in the bowl. Basically sucking air. Of course with that small amount of fuel coming through the idle circuit, it was necessary to use the cable to pull open the slide to get fuel from the pilot circuit for idling (sound familar anyone?) or worse, crank the idle knob so far up that there wasn't any choke and anything larger than a 35 pilot would cause it to fall flat on it's face.
Right now it has baseline settings of 50 pilot, 160 main, DGH needle on slot #3, 1 1/2 turns on air screw, idle knob turned up about 1/4 of the way, idles good, slack throttle cable, slide fully closed! As you can probably tell, I'm flippin ecstatic. I can't wait til tomorrow to go finish jetting. I have high hopes of good low end power with that much pilot. It has pretty good response just sitting in the garage. More tomorrow.....
I'm including a link to my fav jetting info site, which I just noticed says to do the steps in a specific order and just about opposite of the way i've been doing it (sorry to anyone I gave bad advice to). Most importantly, it says to set the float level FIRST. (seems so obvious now...) I'm sure i've seen this link in another thread but couldn't find it.
http://www.angelfire.com/pa5/cannondale/carb.html
Well, maybe not. But I did figure out the problem! FLOAT SETTING IS CRITICAL, not just important but critical. The float looked fine at first glance, but then I realized it had been set with the carb fully inverted, so that the spring loaded needle was depressed. What looked like 16mm from the gasket surface to the top (or bottom depending on how you look at it) of the float was really about 21-22mm, maybe more. This made my fuel level extremely low in the bowl. Basically sucking air. Of course with that small amount of fuel coming through the idle circuit, it was necessary to use the cable to pull open the slide to get fuel from the pilot circuit for idling (sound familar anyone?) or worse, crank the idle knob so far up that there wasn't any choke and anything larger than a 35 pilot would cause it to fall flat on it's face.
Right now it has baseline settings of 50 pilot, 160 main, DGH needle on slot #3, 1 1/2 turns on air screw, idle knob turned up about 1/4 of the way, idles good, slack throttle cable, slide fully closed! As you can probably tell, I'm flippin ecstatic. I can't wait til tomorrow to go finish jetting. I have high hopes of good low end power with that much pilot. It has pretty good response just sitting in the garage. More tomorrow.....
I'm including a link to my fav jetting info site, which I just noticed says to do the steps in a specific order and just about opposite of the way i've been doing it (sorry to anyone I gave bad advice to). Most importantly, it says to set the float level FIRST. (seems so obvious now...) I'm sure i've seen this link in another thread but couldn't find it.
http://www.angelfire.com/pa5/cannondale/carb.html
Did some jetting saturday. Ended up with 65 pilot, 170 main, DGH needle 3rd slot. Goes like hell, but I'm still not 100% satisfied.
Mostly that has to do with the fact that those two pro-built Raptor 250's smoked my son off the line and he had to play "follow the leader" and "eat my dust" all day Sunday. LOL. Still, I shouldn't complain too much, he did beat a 400EX and a whole field of other Blasters.
Further jetting/adjustment will concentrate on acceleration, not just max power. That's a bit harder to judge, but it should be worth it. I might drop back down to the 13t front sprocket and have him launch in 2nd. Any thoughts?
Mostly that has to do with the fact that those two pro-built Raptor 250's smoked my son off the line and he had to play "follow the leader" and "eat my dust" all day Sunday. LOL. Still, I shouldn't complain too much, he did beat a 400EX and a whole field of other Blasters.
Further jetting/adjustment will concentrate on acceleration, not just max power. That's a bit harder to judge, but it should be worth it. I might drop back down to the 13t front sprocket and have him launch in 2nd. Any thoughts?
That would be a big help to get him out of the hole quicker. Sounds like you know what your doing. rep's for the jetting site.
I tried a 13 front sprocket and when I compared lap times they were actually slower. My son it felt faster, but I think alot was lost with the extra tire spin. He is small tho...not enough ass i guess :} We had an LRD pipe also and switched to the high volume Dynoport and it added alot of bottom end. That was with our set-up....it would be nice if you new someone and could try it.
Good point. Frankly I've wondered if maybe the +3 swinger is hurting at this point too. Spins alot of tire.
As for the pipe, that would be a bummer (the LRD looks so badass) but I could try swapping the Toomey back on. Certainly it had good low end with that, before I put on the ported cylinder.
What gear ratio do you have now?
As for the pipe, that would be a bummer (the LRD looks so badass) but I could try swapping the Toomey back on. Certainly it had good low end with that, before I put on the ported cylinder.
What gear ratio do you have now?
Ok, I'm running 14/42 (almost stock ratio) at the moment. I thought the extra torque would be nice. Maybe with the power I have now, it can pull the taller gear on launch. And yeah, that was definitely why I put on the +3, wheelie machines go up, not forward.
Soil wise, idk. Dirt, varies from track to track. Home track has fine powder that makes hardpack after being wet down and run on for a while. Clay?
Soil wise, idk. Dirt, varies from track to track. Home track has fine powder that makes hardpack after being wet down and run on for a while. Clay?
Well, LRD thinks it's the one to have. LOL.
"Get the hole shot every time with this pipe. The best bolt-on modification you can buy for the Blaster. Designed for better throttle response and mid-range with a huge increase in top-end performance. Hands down, the best exhaust available for the Blaster!" -LRD
"Get the hole shot every time with this pipe. The best bolt-on modification you can buy for the Blaster. Designed for better throttle response and mid-range with a huge increase in top-end performance. Hands down, the best exhaust available for the Blaster!" -LRD
He's at more of a "drop and go" level. 
I'm going to play with fine tuning the carb a bit yet. The interesting thing is even with the big jets I put in it, the plug looks a long way from being fouled, whereas with the PWK28 I had on it before it was always just a little this side of black.
I'm going to play with fine tuning the carb a bit yet. The interesting thing is even with the big jets I put in it, the plug looks a long way from being fouled, whereas with the PWK28 I had on it before it was always just a little this side of black.
Ya pulling 2nd should not be a problem with 14/40 and he won't be blowing the tires off like he probably is with the 42. I've found that razor's get alot more bite on hard packed than the MXR's. A good all around tire for soft and hard is the Sedona Slingshot V V V V V V , wear the best too.
