after my 01 blaster warms up, it sputters and dies. please help

[dirtrider604]

my 01 blaster has the following mods that i know of: paul turner exhaust and silencer, moose air filter and possibly a wiseco piston.... but anyways, when it warms up it wont idle and when driven it sputters and dies. but this is only after it warms up. and it is not overheating. it takes a couple min for me to be able to start it again. idk why. it runs really good when its cold and i never have to use the choke. i took the carb off, cleaned it and moved the main jet needle but it didnt change anything. i think its either starving for fuel or flooding but i dont know. im new to the atv world and this is my 1st quad i gt in a trade for my crf80.

 

[BlastinPastYou]

try taking off just the airbox lid ( black cover under the seat) i had the same problem too and that solved it for me. It also could be that u have a bad float or a crapped out needle seat! I would try the easy part first of taking the lid off and if that dosent work get a carb rebuild kit ($15)!

 

[Jammies]

Do you know if it has been rejetted for those mods?

 

[York Racing]

Yeah the problem would lie with the jetting.

 

[Braaaptor]

Check your jetting. If the airbox lid has been removed (which I suggest doing), you'll need somewhere around a 280 main jet with the needle in the center clip. Change out that stock main jet for a 280 and adjust the airscrew on the side of the carburetor until the engine idles smoothly (usually 1-2 turns out). This WILL make your engine run better and MAY solve the probelm completely.

 

[sublunacy]

the fuel linegoing to the carb, remove it /blow back thru it into the tank. if that changed nothing the carb needs a diy clean and rebuild. If that changes nothing look more closely at the petcock and fuel supply system again.

 

[dirtrider604]

i thought the same thing all you guys thought. after that didnt work i just took it to a shop. the 1st they did was run a compression check and they said it wasnt getting enough to stay running. so its currently at the shop getting that fixed. i still need to hear exactly what it is. they figured it was the cylindar, piston, and/or piston rings...

and the air box lid? is that the lid that covers the air filter? what are the benefits to removing that??

 

[Blaaster]

Taking the air box lid off allows more air into the motor due to less restriction.

Removing the lid can help in diagnosing a problem, but should never be used to fix a problem.

If you remove the lid and the motor seems to run better there could be a problem with the float or flooding.

If it seems to run worse when you take it off then there could be the possibility of dirt or a blockage.

As to the compression, seems a little strange that it starts ok and then dies, poor compression usuall stops it from starting.

Before you let anyone rip the motor down, please post the compression readings.

If repairs have already been started, when they finish make sure they do a leak down test, and ask them to do their sums and jet it for your mods.

Before you ride it get back on the forum, post what they did and ask for some comments.

Also ask them what in their opinion caused the problem.

I maybe sounding paranoid here, but the compression issue smells a little fishy to me.

 

[dirtrider604]

the motor is currently being ripped down. they said the compression should be between 140-160 they told me it was 104 when started and it went down to 80 when it got warm. the dealer has yet to tell me what the specific problem is in the engine though. as soon as i know more i will definately post it on here. i will also make sure they do a leak down test and hopefully re-jet it

 

[dirtrider604]

so i found out today it needs to be bored 20 over and get a new piston kit. they said the kit should be around $125 and then i got labor charges to put it together. hopefully it'll be done soon and i can go riding again