although i do know to be slightly rich is ok at least i wont blow my top end correct me if im wrong
a little jetting help
- Thread starter osiris10
- Start date
you know what im going to make a video of the bike and post it then maybe evrybody can get a better understanding of what im dealing with
A little rich, is so much better than being a little lean!
Someone may post regarding the plug chop who has a bigger screen than me.
They may see something that I am not.
That plug looks on the rich side My opinion you will be fine! AKA I would run it!
ok thanks im deffinetly going to rip with my kids if it snows but im waiting on the video to upload its crazy because when i took the video it did not react like it has been when i adjusted the air svrew i could tell the difference but when i shut it down and tryed to start it again it did what its been doing i took another video of that you cant see the bike it got dark real fast then my phone died that sucked but you can here what the bike is doing it is doing this at the stock setting but when i put it back to were it ran best the started first kick and idled just like the first video when i was letting it warm up
blaster issues - YouTube VID 20120210 174520 - YouTube man that took forever but here it is guys what you think was the video good can you tell whats going on???
ok the second video is the problem im having this is what occures when the air screw is at stock but when i put it back to what i set it at it runns like it did in the first vid idles forever and it rides good or it feels as though it does
im running in to the same problem with the idleing high rpms runs ok but realy crappy in lows when i do get it to idle and hit the gas it revs down realy slow how to would my pilot be to small or to big.i could use all the help right now ready to take it to a scrap
The first vid sounds normal, that is with the air screw 1/4 turn out?? I'd leave it like that until u get that other pilot. The idle does seem a hair low, but that second vid , sounds like a straight airleak cause it so very lean in idle- in IMO as you have the air screw out which lets more air in! I think once you get the other pilot and do the adjustment, it'll all be good, but keep it at 1/4 turn out as that waht it telling u it likes!! Them grip it and rip it Bro!! I:I
yeah man when i first put the head together and started it this is what i got i was pissed at first like no way it cant have an air leak that was my first guess then i broke out the leak tester and nothing it held the psi so i started to run it down and in the end i came with the air screw were its at like you said slickerthenyou about a 1/4 turn out im waiting on my pilot to come i really think this will fix my problem and if your having the same problem like mine pablaster and your pilot screw has to be so far in to idle and get the throttle responce that should be there then i would also look into a biger pilot jet but read this post and take the advise of the guys on here do the brake down to make sure this is it you know leakdown test clean check complete carb including cable ect..... the men on this forum havent steered me wrong so far and were verey helpfull
yeah that first vid was with the air screw at 1/4 turn out starts no problem the second one is with it at stock position
you guys do under stand the idle adjustment and the pilot jet circuit are independent of each other? if you are adjusting ur pilot trying to make the bike IDLE ur doing it wrong. the pilot circuit is whats responsible for the off idle response and will affect idle but you have to properly adjust the IDLE on the tors and then tune the pilot circuit. ofcourse you can adjust the pilot to affect idle but then u are increasing the air flow thru the pilot circuit to compensate for lack of airflow at the slide. this will cause a lean condition until you reach 1/4 throttle when the main jet and needle take over the fuel delivery. atleast consider adjusting the tors idle screw if u want it to idle then adress the pilot, next main ,and needle position, and needle taper but im no expert others may disagree . . . .but it worth consideration since this is an idle pilot issue and ive heard nothing of idle adjustment. . . .
to my understanding if the air screw needs to be turned in then it is lean of idle and needs a bigger pilot if it needs to be turned out then it is rich of idle and would need a smaller jet but again i would go through a good breakdown befor getting that pilot from my reading iv found out that not to many blaster change the pilot jet with slight mods. but evry engine is different and asks for diffrent things.i think it would help if you gave more details to your bike like what mods you have? elavation, temp and what could of caused this did you just start the bike up one day and thats what it did? or are you putting upgrades to your bike and this is were you are at? this will help you a little faster on the responces with others
you guys do under stand the idle adjustment and the pilot jet circuit are independent of each other? if you are adjusting ur pilot trying to make the bike IDLE ur doing it wrong. the pilot circuit is whats responsible for the off idle response and will affect idle but you have to properly adjust the IDLE on the tors and then tune the pilot circuit. ofcourse you can adjust the pilot to affect idle but then u are increasing the air flow thru the pilot circuit to compensate for lack of airflow at the slide. this will cause a lean condition until you reach 1/4 throttle when the main jet and needle take over the fuel delivery. atleast consider adjusting the tors idle screw if u want it to idle then adress the pilot, next main ,and needle position, and needle taper but im no expert others may disagree . . . .but it worth consideration since this is an idle pilot issue and ive heard nothing of idle adjustment. . . .
yes i did do this and when i turned the idle up to compinsate the air screw it will rev even higher and hang longer when i first started with the air screw at stock and tryed to adjust the idle on the tors and when i hit the gas if you heard what it sounded like in my second vid this is what i got but it would rev higher and hang longer if i tried to adjust it from the idle screw and i onley did one circuiut at a time the onley place it seemed to work was were i got it now the begining of the first vid shows how it idles and rides
Nate is correct, you should get it to idle at about 1500rpm . Get it started first however that should be (be it 1/4 turn out or whatever), turn idle up I'd say from your first vid, half turn or so reguardless of how high it idles, then put the air screw at 1.5 turns out, see what ya come up with! This could of been an oversite on my part as i assume sometimes when i shouldn't!
im running fmf fatty with power core 2,4 degree key,vitos piston and rings, v force 3 reeds,uni foam filter...jets 230 well bumped up to 270 main and 32.5 pilot jet needle 3rd or in middle and i have that problem with idleing
Put timing back to original and see if ya still have an issue, probably but lets take that out of the equation! I have no experience with advanced timing! Oh and start your own thread! I:I are youn running a big bore 240 kit? If so- that pilot and that 270 is gonna fry your top end!
