same other member
Still no spark? Time to test the stator plate. For the record (and this is a myth that has people confused), a sheared flywheelkey will NOT cause the engine to lose spark. The key only indexes the flywheelonto the crankshaft. Should the key shear, the ignition system will still function properly; the spark just will not be properly synched with the piston's position in the cylinder. With a sheared key, the engine either won't fire at all, will kick back viciously, or attempt to run in reverse. (Depending on how many degrees the ignition timing has been thrown off.) BUT, when you go to test spark at the plug, you will have it even if the engine itself won't start.
That being said, take your mulit-meter with a fresh battery and ohm out the stator plate, following the directions in your manual in the link I posted earlier. Attempting to test the stator plate with a test light won't do you much good. Remember, a test light is designed to work with a 12V system, but at cranking speeds (i.e. kicking-over speeds) the coils on the engine's stator plate aren't putting out anywhere near 12 volts. As such, the current produced won't activate the test light's bulb. Use the multi-meter.
If, and only if, the coils test OK on the stator plate, you can eliminate it as your source of trouble. That being said, its a good idea to remove the flywheelif you can and just take a look back there to be sure the whole works isn't full of rust/corrosion, etc.
If the stator plate fails the test, time to either replace the defective coil or find a good used replacement plate.
If the stator plate is still good, keep on checking. As another poster mentioned, it is very easy to accidentally knock a connector loose where the stator plate attaches to the main wiring harness. Be sure they are all tight. To eliminate a bad-ground as a possible problem, look at the four wires coming off the stator plate. One is solid black. This is your ground. Unplug it, take a jumper wire, and use the jumper wire to ground out this wire (coming from the stator plate) to somewhere with bare metal on the engine or frame. Re-test spark. If it now fires, you've got a ground problem. No fire? Keep working...
The only other problem I can think of offhand is IF, AND ONLY IF, the ignition coil, spark plug boot, and stator plate test good and the ignition system still won't fire with a disabled kill switch, new plug, and tight ground. This problem would be a bad connection at the CDI box. Be very careful when hooking up the CDI box. There are five wires going into/out of the CDI box. Three are from the source and trigger coils on the stator plate. One is a ground for the CDI box. The last one is your orange ignition coil wire. The problem is, two of these wires are both black and share the same kind of plug. It is possible to hook them up backwards and, if this happens, you will have no spark. How can you tell? Look closely, and you will see that one black wire has a red chaser. The other one is solid black. Match them up chaser-to-chaser, black-to-black, and check spark again. I've done this before and been stumped for a couple hours until I saw what I screwed up. lol. Last thought: How did you eliminate the TORS system? Did you strip out all the wires (carb cap switch, throttle switch, 'brain' box), or just unplug everything and leave the plugs attached to the harness? Be sure none of the TORS wires have been twisted together. Everything must be left open for the engine to get spark and run.
If you still don't have spark after all this, replace the CDI box. Unless you have a known-good one off a RUNNING Blaster, it is possible to have two bad used ones in a row.
Hope you get it figured out! Good luck!
Read more: http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/no-spark.42859/#ixzz3I1pxLesV
Ok, between the PM's we've been exchanging and what I've read on here, I tend to agree with the CDI being the problem.
Here's what we know: Even though the ignition coilunder the seat tested out of spec, those readings don't matter if you're not getting 12 volts to the coil to begin with. Since the stator plate coils behind the flywheeltested good, they can be ruled out. I assume you've double- and triple- checked all the electrical connections between the stator plate and flywheeland found them to be good.
Since all the TORS equipment has been uhooked (brain box, throttle switch, and carb. cap switch), that can be ruled out as a cause of your problem.
You're NOT going to get enough volts from the source coil behind the flywheelwhen just kicking the engine over to light up the test light. The engine isn't spinning over fast enough. The CDI box, when working properly, steps up the voltage going into the igntion coil to 12 volts.
Assuming you still can't get 12 volts TO the ignition coilwith the kill switches unhooked, it sounds like the CDI boxis indeed bad. You did check the ground wire that bolts to the back of the ignition coil, correct? Its nice and clean and tight?
I don't think its worth the extra $$ for a Hotshot CDI box. Somebody (awk, I think?) has had trouble with them. Just get a good OEM replacement and run that one.
Read more: http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/no-spark.42859/page-2#ixzz3I1w9EBw5
Still no spark? Time to test the stator plate. For the record (and this is a myth that has people confused), a sheared flywheelkey will NOT cause the engine to lose spark. The key only indexes the flywheelonto the crankshaft. Should the key shear, the ignition system will still function properly; the spark just will not be properly synched with the piston's position in the cylinder. With a sheared key, the engine either won't fire at all, will kick back viciously, or attempt to run in reverse. (Depending on how many degrees the ignition timing has been thrown off.) BUT, when you go to test spark at the plug, you will have it even if the engine itself won't start.
That being said, take your mulit-meter with a fresh battery and ohm out the stator plate, following the directions in your manual in the link I posted earlier. Attempting to test the stator plate with a test light won't do you much good. Remember, a test light is designed to work with a 12V system, but at cranking speeds (i.e. kicking-over speeds) the coils on the engine's stator plate aren't putting out anywhere near 12 volts. As such, the current produced won't activate the test light's bulb. Use the multi-meter.
If, and only if, the coils test OK on the stator plate, you can eliminate it as your source of trouble. That being said, its a good idea to remove the flywheelif you can and just take a look back there to be sure the whole works isn't full of rust/corrosion, etc.
If the stator plate fails the test, time to either replace the defective coil or find a good used replacement plate.
If the stator plate is still good, keep on checking. As another poster mentioned, it is very easy to accidentally knock a connector loose where the stator plate attaches to the main wiring harness. Be sure they are all tight. To eliminate a bad-ground as a possible problem, look at the four wires coming off the stator plate. One is solid black. This is your ground. Unplug it, take a jumper wire, and use the jumper wire to ground out this wire (coming from the stator plate) to somewhere with bare metal on the engine or frame. Re-test spark. If it now fires, you've got a ground problem. No fire? Keep working...
The only other problem I can think of offhand is IF, AND ONLY IF, the ignition coil, spark plug boot, and stator plate test good and the ignition system still won't fire with a disabled kill switch, new plug, and tight ground. This problem would be a bad connection at the CDI box. Be very careful when hooking up the CDI box. There are five wires going into/out of the CDI box. Three are from the source and trigger coils on the stator plate. One is a ground for the CDI box. The last one is your orange ignition coil wire. The problem is, two of these wires are both black and share the same kind of plug. It is possible to hook them up backwards and, if this happens, you will have no spark. How can you tell? Look closely, and you will see that one black wire has a red chaser. The other one is solid black. Match them up chaser-to-chaser, black-to-black, and check spark again. I've done this before and been stumped for a couple hours until I saw what I screwed up. lol. Last thought: How did you eliminate the TORS system? Did you strip out all the wires (carb cap switch, throttle switch, 'brain' box), or just unplug everything and leave the plugs attached to the harness? Be sure none of the TORS wires have been twisted together. Everything must be left open for the engine to get spark and run.
If you still don't have spark after all this, replace the CDI box. Unless you have a known-good one off a RUNNING Blaster, it is possible to have two bad used ones in a row.
Hope you get it figured out! Good luck!
Read more: http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/no-spark.42859/#ixzz3I1pxLesV
Ok, between the PM's we've been exchanging and what I've read on here, I tend to agree with the CDI being the problem.
Here's what we know: Even though the ignition coilunder the seat tested out of spec, those readings don't matter if you're not getting 12 volts to the coil to begin with. Since the stator plate coils behind the flywheeltested good, they can be ruled out. I assume you've double- and triple- checked all the electrical connections between the stator plate and flywheeland found them to be good.
Since all the TORS equipment has been uhooked (brain box, throttle switch, and carb. cap switch), that can be ruled out as a cause of your problem.
You're NOT going to get enough volts from the source coil behind the flywheelwhen just kicking the engine over to light up the test light. The engine isn't spinning over fast enough. The CDI box, when working properly, steps up the voltage going into the igntion coil to 12 volts.
Assuming you still can't get 12 volts TO the ignition coilwith the kill switches unhooked, it sounds like the CDI boxis indeed bad. You did check the ground wire that bolts to the back of the ignition coil, correct? Its nice and clean and tight?
I don't think its worth the extra $$ for a Hotshot CDI box. Somebody (awk, I think?) has had trouble with them. Just get a good OEM replacement and run that one.
Read more: http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/no-spark.42859/page-2#ixzz3I1w9EBw5
Last edited:
