99 blaster no spark

[Orestes]

Hey guys, new to the forum here. Ok...so checked out the stator, had a bad coil. I got a
coil replacement kit and soldered that all in. Checked their resistance and they're all wishing spec. I'm only getting 3V DC coming out of the CDI Orange wire...I suspect a bad CDI, but I have a head scratcher, and not quite sure what to do from here.

 

[bummer981]

There is no way to test the CDI other than replacing it with a known good one. You can still test the coil with the ohm tester.

 

[Herpderplol]

Welcome to the forum. if you want a cheap CDI, try making a wanted ad on here.

you can use the old or new model CDI. it just mounts different and the new one will need 2 wires soldered

 

[Orestes]

I just have a question though. I put my meter on AC, probed the coil and I was getting about 25V when I kicked it over. What kind of voltage should I be seeing coming out of the coils?

 

[jus_me]

Out of curiosity what brand did you purchase?

 

[Orestes]

Im pretty sure I ordered this one off of ebay.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/231284675431?nav=SEARCH

 

[Herpderplol]

coils will be higher like you got on your meter. the blaster has a voltage regulator for a reason

 

[bummer981]

You test the coil for resistance in ohms, with the quad not running. The values can be found in the manual.

 

[Orestes]

The coils are new and are within spec. I'll double check and post the values. Anybody have a link to the service manual?

 

[Blaaster]

http://www.blasterforum.com/threads...ce-and-owner-manuals-download-for-free.17325/

 

[speedyslyder]

did you buy it like this or is it something that just happen?
are there any other aftermarket parts to it that you know?
what electrical parts are still on it?
kill switch,key switch,tors unit,
4 wires on stator or 5 wires?

 

[Orestes]

Well Im actually fixing it for a buddy. He bought it not running. Nothing aftermarket is on it. Basically everything stock is still on it. The TORS is still on it, however I unplugged it. I tested the pickup coil and the source coil, and I got 21 and 252 ohms. I checked the DC voltage coming out of the stator (Orange wire) and its putting out about 3.5V. Before I replaced the stator, I was getting 0V, that's because the source coil was toast. So...now I'm getting 3.5V...the only thing I can think of is the source and pick up coil wires are corroded that run along the frame to the CDI. Maybe the CDI just isn't getting enough juice from the stator? I checked the AC voltage coming out of the stator and I was getting around 30V. What kind of voltage are you guys seeing coming out of the stator? I wonder if a bad ground could be the cause of low voltage? I cleaned the ground that is mounted to the ignition coil. So you guys seem to be the pros at this, so I have a new stator and the resistances check out to be normal....not sure what else to check. The service manual says that if everything checks out, you check the whole wire harness and if everything is good, replace the CDI. So I'm still stuck! I have a new CDI ordered from the dealer in the mean time.

 

[speedyslyder]

usally the stator is to blame everytime,not sure about the moose kit but,everyone has only had luck with the stock stator setup.
if it was mine i would disconnect kill ,disconnect key switch,
cut 1/4 in off spark plug boot,replace plug,make sure magnets are in good on flywheel with woodruff key aligned.
99 blaster has a 4 wire stator,although if you buy aftermarket they can come with 5 wires,thats why i asked that question
i would check or just replace all wires or temporaliy jump all of them.
then i would put spark plug on side of engine and kick it to see if it sparks
if it were mine

 

[Orestes]

I have all that crap unplugged or jumped already and it never seemed to make a difference. Still getting the same low voltage....I'd think it would be a sh*tty stator because I'm getting something, but not nothing. Maybe I'll try to jump the ground wire from the stator straight to the frame, but I doubt it'll make a difference.

 

[speedyslyder]

does plug spark at all?
aftermarket stators or coils whatever have been know to test good and still not work,
if you read through the electrical threads you will see tons of threads about only stock stators being the fix.
off your topic but did you compression test it at all?

 

[speedyslyder]

read through these

http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/source-coil-ohm-question.60324/#post-751375
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/rm-ricky-stator-do-any-of-them-work.59901/#post-
752665
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/no-spark.60260/#post-750581

 

[Orestes]

Nope, won't spark at all. Like I said before, only 3.5V is going into the ignition coil...need way more to get it to spark. Compression is good.

 

[speedyslyder]

i believe it is ohm
NOT VOLTS

 

[Orestes]

You need 12 volts going into the ignition coil to get it to spark, that's the point I'm trying to make.

 

[speedyslyder]

You need 12 volts going into the ignition coil to get it to spark, that's the point I'm trying to make.

ok lol
from another member read

Ok, lets see what we can figure out to get you going again. All the obvious stuff seems to have been checked. Have you done the orange wire test yet? All you need to do is unhook the orange wire from the ignition coil and hook it to the probe end of your test light. Then ground out the other end of the test light, kick the engine over (preferably with the spark plug out so it will spin more), and watch to see if the test light flashes. If the bulb flashes, you've at least got juice coming out of the CDI box and going to the coil. Replace the ignition coil with a new one and try again. It should fire with a new coil. I will say that one other possible source of trouble is your spark plug boot. They can fail, or you may have a bad connection between the coil wire and the boot. Check the link below to see how to test the coil/boot. Try unscrewing the boot from the coil wire and being sure it has no internal damage or a loose connection.

http://www.blasterforum.com/general-support-17/downloadable-yamaha-blaster-manual-17325/


If the test light remains dark or flashes very weakly/intermittently, the problem is farther back in the ignition system. Take the front hood panel off your Blaster and look at the wires coming from the handlebar switch. There is a red compound plug with three wires. These are (or were) for the headlight. Leave them alone. HOWEVER, there is also a single black wire with a white chaser (stripe). Unplug it for a moment and re-test your spark. This is your kill switch wire and if the switch has failed, unhooking it will allow the system to fire again. If your Blaster still has its factory keyed kill switch as well, trace the black/white striped wire back to the CDI box and unplug it there. This will be sure that both the handlebar and keyed kill switches are unhooked, and therefore out of the picture, when you go to re-test spark.


Read more: http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/no-spark.42859/#ixzz3I1ibti7L