i traded my warrior to this dude for a 97 blaster 200 that ran, drove it around my yard for about 20 minute and it ran great, next day i ran it all day around my trail and eventually it ran out of gas. my brother being the expert motorcycle mechanic told me that they has cut two hoses off the right side if your sitting on it, and those were vaccum hoses which was the oil pump so i had to mix my gas. so i went to the gas station and went to my local power sports got some gas and some 2 cycle mix. mixed it right. poured it in. ran for about 20 minutes and it ran damn good too, i did notice that when i gave it full throttle in 2nd gear and wasnt going fast enough it would sort of bog out, but it would sh*t and get if i was high in rpms which is probably just my tank being full. so i turned it off. let it rest for a minute, and crunk it back up and wantd to ride again, i drove about 200 feet and it stopped. and wouldnt start back up. i thoght it was flooded my but again to my brothers demise, the carb was clogged bc i got trash in thecarb. so what i did was clean the carbs out and everything made sure i did everything the right way, put it back on and tried to crank it the next morning, it ran for about 2 seconds and then cut off. and now its sounds like its not getting compression. so i did the comression test and it stopped at 121. so i looked a little further and my reed valve petal was broken on the top side,but only one. so i need to know if thats causing it not to run, and not giving me compression, what i need to check, what i need to do, and if i should ever listen to him again lol... please help yall i wanna ride this thing
97 Blaster Reed valve
- Thread starter Dirtbag
- Start date
I had a similar problem a couple weeks ago... replace the reeds and you should be good... also make sure the reed has the metal piece to prevent it from bending too much.
Leakdown test Forsure. Carb idle screw set around 1.5 turns to start? What if any mods does the bike have? Elevation, temperature etc. Take a look inside the intake port and look at the piston, is it scored? Is the tors removed?
piston looks fine, turned the idle screw 1 1/2 turns about 500 times. people keep telling me that its the reed and its not the reed. i know it started and sounded good like it wanted to run but when i gave it gas it just died. what is a leakdown test
those reeds must be replaced for it to run properly
and be sure your bro blocked off the "vacuum" hose to the carb, or you'll have a giant airleak and your next compression test will show 22 lbs.
what ratio are you mixing the fuel/oil ?
32:1 is recommended, and use a good oil for 2 stroke motorcycles, not chainsaws or weedeaters.
and be sure your bro blocked off the "vacuum" hose to the carb, or you'll have a giant airleak and your next compression test will show 22 lbs.
what ratio are you mixing the fuel/oil ?
32:1 is recommended, and use a good oil for 2 stroke motorcycles, not chainsaws or weedeaters.
thanks for the info man. i have the carb off right now, i didnt mean the carbs i meant the circular peice on the right side of the motor in front of the kickstart, and in front of the plate, theres something with 2 hoses one small one big and its just open. there are a few open places in my carb i need to close up though. maybe itll gimme sommore romp WAP WAPP!!!!
yes, those 2 hoses were for the oil injection system, one from the tank to the pump, and the one we're concerned with went from the pump to the carb
that small brass nipple towards the back/top of the kicker side of the carb must be blocked off, either by putting a screw with a little rtv silicon into the remaining piece of hose, or an 1/8" vacuum cap from your local auto parts store
that small brass nipple towards the back/top of the kicker side of the carb must be blocked off, either by putting a screw with a little rtv silicon into the remaining piece of hose, or an 1/8" vacuum cap from your local auto parts store
i find it best to take atv tires to a shop and allow them to properly remove and install the new ones,
if you insist on trying it yourself, you can get a bead breaker from harbor freight fairly cheap, or do the redneck method i've had luck with before....
lay the tire on a hard surface (street/alley/parking lot) have someone watch as you run your car/truck over it, you must run only the tire over, as close to the rim as possible, < thats what the helper does...align your tire with the edge of the rim. may take a few tries but has never failed me yet.
and i believe it's easier to take the tire off, and back onto, the short side of the rim ?
tire spoons work best, and don't forget the lubrication..soapy water or wd-40
if trying to use large screwdrivers be careful to not tear the bead < hence why i take them to a shop
When I got my blaster the two hoses for oil injection was just cut....which one should I plug the big or little one or both? I'm also gonna check my carb to see if it's plugged alsothis port must be blocked off using on of the methods mentioned above............
block off the little brass one towards the rear of the carb as shown in the pic
I'm gonna make sure it's plugged on the carb....the 2 hoses that come out the side casing that goto the oil pump should I plug both of those also?
