2000 yz250 motor done pics

damn nice man i see zip ties fix everyting they holdin radiator on lol. my moto duc tape zip ties an weldin cant fix it nothin can
 
all rite yall gota update, today i put the new water pump seals n sh*t all back together and put oil in the case. so i made bout 10 nasty passes up and down the street, so i let my buddy ride it whose ridden my banshee before, so he took off and made it up the street and i heard the motor stop and grind sounds so i ran up there and he lost it and hit 2 parked cars, and bent the rims and handle bars. so just to get an idea of the power lol. i cant open the bike up all the way becuase i cant keep the front down in time, so next on list is 6" extended swingarm to help maybe. but honestly its too much for a blaster chasis, that was the goal of the build but i hate to admit i mite of bit off a hair more than i can chew lol.B)
 
IMHO It's the parked cars that are too much for a Blaster chassis, not the YZ. :eek: What gears did ya end up with? How bout sum vids of those wheelies so we can hear that YZ. I:I
 
yo uhave not reached the limitation ,i know you can put way more power through that frame for starters just put a longer swingarm on it or raise the gearing more to tame it
 
a 2000 YZ250 motor has gotta be in the 40-45rwhp range... i guess thats in a bike chassis though not a quad chassis.. i can see what your saying about it being a bit much for the chassis in stock trim.. suspension will make or break what your doing there. going fast and keeping it are more in the setup than anything else.. all the power in the world doesn't mean sh*t if you can't get it to the ground effectivly. i was going to build this same thing a while back.. i have an OLD YZ motor.. i beleive it's a 87 yz250 motor thats been worked.. came out of a micro sprint race car... anyway.. i'd put some seat time on that thing.. if you can weld what i'd do is take the stock swinger and cut it.. stretch it say 4 inches and try it.. play with the gearing a bit and try maybe a couple different sizes of tires.. if you've still got issues.. stretch it to 6".. and so on.. when you get to the point that you like it.. then buy yourself a nice swinger.. your best bet is write down the initial setup.. then you can always go back to that "base setup" and start over. that also works well for jetting.. have a "base jettign point" to go back to if you get away fomr what your shooting for.. also.. with this setting up the chassis or with jetting.. only make 1 change at a time. otehrwise you'l never know what fixed your probel for next time.. if you have a local track try doing some of this setup during a test and tune session at teh track.. then you'll see on your slips if your getting faster or slower with each change.
 
Here's sum numbers to give you an idea of the difference between the Blaster, YZ and WR gearboxs.
I don't have the ratios for a 2000. I used WR gears cuz 1st is a bit lower than the Blaster 2nd and 5th is a bit higher than Blaster 6th. WR 5th is like overdrive. The YZ is taller in 1st than the Blaster 2nd and lower in 5th than the Blaster 6th. To me the WR gear set seemed better suited for a quad. Guess it depends on what you want. Anyway, options to think about with the WR/YZ swap. I'm at 12/40 with the WR gears. A little high for steep starts on trails but the motor will pull it. Good for 2nd gear launches in sand and pulls strong WOT in 5th w/paddles.
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Gear Ratios
---- Blaster --------- 89 WR250 -------- 90 YZ250 -
1st 34/11 (3.091) -- 32/14 (2.285) -- 31/15 (2.067)
2nd 31/14 (2.214) -- 29/17 (1.706) -- 29/17 (1.706)
3rd 25/15 (1.667) -- 24/18 (1.333) -- 22/16 (1.375)
4th 20/16 (1.250) -- 21/20 (1.050) -- 22/19 (1.158)
5th 19/18 (1.056) -- 21/25 (0.840) -- 23/23 (1.000)
6th 19/21 (0.905) ------ N/A ----------- N/A -----
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a 2000 YZ250 motor has gotta be in the 40-45rwhp range... i guess thats in a bike chassis though not a quad chassis.. i can see what your saying about it being a bit much for the chassis in stock trim.. suspension will make or break what your doing there. going fast and keeping it are more in the setup than anything else.. all the power in the world doesn't mean sh*t if you can't get it to the ground effectivly. i was going to build this same thing a while back.. i have an OLD YZ motor.. i beleive it's a 87 yz250 motor thats been worked.. came out of a micro sprint race car... anyway.. i'd put some seat time on that thing.. if you can weld what i'd do is take the stock swinger and cut it.. stretch it say 4 inches and try it.. play with the gearing a bit and try maybe a couple different sizes of tires.. if you've still got issues.. stretch it to 6".. and so on.. when you get to the point that you like it.. then buy yourself a nice swinger.. your best bet is write down the initial setup.. then you can always go back to that "base setup" and start over. that also works well for jetting.. have a "base jettign point" to go back to if you get away fomr what your shooting for.. also.. with this setting up the chassis or with jetting.. only make 1 change at a time. otehrwise you'l never know what fixed your probel for next time.. if you have a local track try doing some of this setup during a test and tune session at teh track.. then you'll see on your slips if your getting faster or slower with each change.

word, yea thats what i was thinkin, i think ima just order a 6"swingarm off ebay