1994 Blaster seized, freed, but won't start

[Anonymito]

So, to clear up the title, the gears made a slam noise, locked up the wheels, and then freed a few moments later. Now my Blaster doesn't compress correctly and will not start.

I had finally fixed the carb, tuned it till it idled correctly, and decided to break it in after the long winter. Ran it down my road (pavement), and got it up to the top gear. Had to slow down because it was starting to wobble. Pulled the clutch to idle and missed the shift, let go and heard a terrible noise from the gear box. The wheels locked so I pulled the clutch to go into neutral, everything went okay from then, but every gear wouldn't move although it had worked out the locking. They ended up being unlocked after I came to a stop, but I couldn't get it started again. Every gear moved and didn't seem broken, and no pieces of metal came out when I switched the oil today. It used to make 3 compressions every kick, now it has trouble making one, and the exhaust pops once in a while.

The whole are system is fine, the exhaust as well. I don't believe the top end will have any problems, but the bottom end might. I don't think I broke anything.

 

[rich1]

This has to be the most mixed -up description of a problem I have ever seen ! I have no reply.

 

[Blaaster]

Sounds like the break in, broke the engine.

Did you leak test before starting?

Did you perform heat cycles?

Did you re tension head and jug bolts?

Did you warm it up well before you rode?

Did you exceed 3/4 throttle.

Pull the header pipe off and look up the exhaust port for signs of piston damage, I fear you may find some.

If the piston and rings look good, then suspect a head gasket problem.

 

[Blaaster]

Rich, carefully read through the symptoms and all will be as clear as mud!

So, to clear up the title, the gears made a slam noise, locked up the wheels, and then freed a few moments later. Now my Blaster doesn't compress correctly and will not start.

I had finally fixed the carb, tuned it till it idled correctly, and decided to break it in after the long winter. Ran it down my road (pavement), and got it up to the top gear. Had to slow down because it was starting to wobble. Pulled the clutch to idle and missed the shift, let go and heard a terrible noise from the gear box. The wheels locked so I pulled the clutch to go into neutral, everything went okay from then, but every gear wouldn't move although it had worked out the locking. They ended up being unlocked after I came to a stop, but I couldn't get it started again. Every gear moved and didn't seem broken, and no pieces of metal came out when I switched the oil today. It used to make 3 compressions every kick, now it has trouble making one, and the exhaust pops once in a while.

The whole are system is fine, the exhaust as well. I don't believe the top end will have any problems, but the bottom end might. I don't think I broke anything.

Based on these I feel that a piston has been damaged from overheating/seizing.

It could well be the gears but I lean to piston.

The green highlight maybe because the right foot was firmly planted on the rear brake, it happens when you get scared.

Exhaust popping could be uncompressed/unburnt fuel igniting inter pipe.

Gee I hope that i am wrong( I have been a few times, not often)

 

[speedyslyder]

ok well you need to inspect everything, also inspect to see if your flywheel magnets broke,take off the cover,by foot shifter...who knows the circlips could have come off the side of piston/wrist pin..if you cant crank it,yank it

 

[Quadman1]

I agree what a confusing thread, but I would take off the jug and inspect it.

 

[Awk08]

anyone else notice a pattern lately of these off the wall descriptions ?
lets all please wait until these posters at least answer some of the questions asked, with coherent answers before proceding

 

[dirtysquared]

anyone else notice a pattern lately of these off the wall descriptions ?

yes!!!!

 

[Anonymito]

A few of you are being helpful, the rest shouldn't have wasted their time posting.

I'm new to the off roading world, but I do know the basic maintenance required before every trip.

Blaaster, since you were most helpful.
If by leak test you mean checking for spot where air/exhaust are coming out of places it shouldn't, then yes.

I don't know what you mean be the 2nd and 3rd question, but I did warm it up.

I did not go past 3/4 throttle.

Since I'm in need of re - re explaining my post. I was in 6th, it got wobbly. I got a bit concerned and attempted to downshift. I missed the shifter because of an oncoming car and left go of the clutch with far too low RPMS. Somewhere low in the engine I heard a clunk, the wheels locked for a few seconds. The engine had shut off on it's own, and downshift to neutral was all but smooth. Now the kick starter is a bit harder to kick and the piston doesn't compress as it did before (sort of feels sticky, like it doesn't want to move a lot.)

 

[Anonymito]

Now I don't care if you've seen a billion different posts similar to mine, it does not justify treating me like some common idiot.

 

[dirtysquared]

Your description of having a hard time kicking it over sounds like something is in your cylinder or crank case. I'd do a leak down test, then tear into it to see what happened in there.

 

[tbrooks]

Sorry but as awk said there have been quite a few strange threads with no response from the author here lately. This is a great site with lots of helpful people so just hang in there. this should help you http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/build-and-use-a-leakdown-tester.10663/ and questions 2 n3 were because you said I decided to break it in to which I think Blaaster thought you were breaking in a newly rebuilt engine. Does sound like engine problem to me. Leaktest b4 you tear into it so you'll know if that's what the problem was

 

[Anonymito]

No need for tests, just pulled off the top end, the piston is done for. There are deep abbreviations on the side towards the exhaust, and the top ring is sticking out on the carb side.

If you guys wouldn't mind pointing me towards someone or a site that sells the new piston and ring, and also a good tutorial on replacing the piston then I'd be set.

 

[Anonymito]

Odd as hell to me, everything else was fine, the rest of the cylinder had some insignificant scratches and a little carbon build up.

 

[tbrooks]

My advice would be to get it to a good shop and have them check for out-of-round and taper and then give it a hone, shouldn't cost a lot. Then you can go off their measurements to get the right piston. After your rebuild you need to leaktest. Its something you should do with any 2stroke at least twice a year and anytime your having problems. Its a very good possibility that an airleak or improper jetting lead to your problems. 2 strokes are very picky about the air to fuel ratio since your fuel also lubes your top end and crank

 

[Blaaster]

Not wishing to gloat, but my fears came to bite you.

To me you described a classic example of a siezed piston.

When I referred to a leak test, meant that you should have pressurised the crankcase via the inlet port to see if the engine was airtight, a procedure which must be done often to 2 strokes.

After rebuild make sure that one is performed before the engine is started.

A bit long winded but may help you

http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/2-stroke-top-end-rebuild-very-informative.54199/#post-676728

 

[Anonymito]

Don't really want to take it in because the only reliable shop around knows that it is the only one and raises it's service prices to the moon.

If you guys know of someone reliable selling a whole (the cylinder and whole piston setup) top end (excluding cylinder head). Just link me to them, I don't know the people on this site, and don't want to end up buying a seriously worn cylinder.

 

[tbrooks]

Where are you at, somebody might know a good shop. It really shouldn't cost you a whole lot. I personally sent mine from NC to PA last week to KOR, because I want mine done by the best and it needed a lot, and my local shop don't know what they're doin. Shipping is costing me a pretty penny, but I sent the bottom end too.

 

[Fast6hand]

Where are you at, somebody might know a good shop. It really shouldn't cost you a whole lot. I personally sent mine from NC to PA last week to KOR, because I want mine done by the best and it needed a lot, and my local shop don't know what they're doin. Shipping is costing me a pretty penny, but I sent the bottom end too.

I sent my cylinder, flywheel, and crank to KOR. 25 shipped....priceless!

 

[Anonymito]

Where are you at, somebody might know a good shop. It really shouldn't cost you a whole lot. I personally sent mine from NC to PA last week to KOR, because I want mine done by the best and it needed a lot, and my local shop don't know what they're doin. Shipping is costing me a pretty penny, but I sent the bottom end too.

What's this KOR place you are talking about, I might try it out. I do still need a proper tutorial on how to remove the piston.