Not exactly true, some early models and those shipped to Oceania were fitted with a #220 main jet.
01 Blaster Spark but no start
- Thread starter ineedanapnow
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Not exactly true, some early models and those shipped to Oceania were fitted with a #220 main jet.
In my manual that came along with the title it tells me #220. And listen thats what I was told it was bored out to, I'm still new to this, but I figured out it was bored out with a big bore kit. The leak I was seeing earlier I believe was from the carb. Because I dont see it anymore. And again like I said when I went to go kick start it after turning on the fuel lime the carb was spewing gas. Then I go back a few hours later and its not doing it at all.
My apologies, I was always under the impression the stock mikuni had a 230 stock.
Anyways the carb could have spewed and stopped, mines done it before. The float gets stuck causing it to over flow and thus draining through the over flows. It came out the long hose attached to the bottom of the carb.
If so somthing simple could have knocked ur float lose fixing the problem
( I normally tap mine with something a few times and it normally will knock lose)
So leak test is good, you have spark, and reeds are good, I'd recommend a compression test m, it's free if u rent the tool just need the 40 up front.
I had this same problem I ha spark, installed new reeds, and had no leak, and had perfect compression. Mine wound up being the fly wheel and stator I just sanded them down and cleaned them up! Check for the woodruff key in there that's what I would try next if ur pulling the fly wheel u will need the tool! It's a flywheel puller cost me 10 bucks on eBay!
I would say its worth checking. So ur " oil/ gas leaks" are good now it's completely sealed then.
If it was indeed bored with a big bore kit, I'm no Expert at big bore kits but a stock mikuni with a 230 main could be starving that size engine for fuel but if it ran on it before idk.
The carby and needle and seat must be clean and in good condition.
Fuel must be flowing to the float bowl and the motor must be leak proof.
The reeds also must be in great condition.
I do not know the procedures that you followed, but they should be done as follows to ensure a good starting and perfect running motor,.
Float level should 20 to 21.5mm on a stock carby.
you want to turn the carb and hold it on a slight angle to measure the float height, like shown here......
it should just barely be touching the inner needle, not depressing it,
It is possible to check the fuel level by attaching a length of clear plastic tubing to the drain nipple , lifting it up the side of the carby, and cracking the drain screw.
The fuel should show in the pipe to the level of the carb body above the float bowl gasket.
Idle adjusting.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor to responds.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
Fuel must be flowing to the float bowl and the motor must be leak proof.
The reeds also must be in great condition.
I do not know the procedures that you followed, but they should be done as follows to ensure a good starting and perfect running motor,.
Float level should 20 to 21.5mm on a stock carby.
you want to turn the carb and hold it on a slight angle to measure the float height, like shown here......
it should just barely be touching the inner needle, not depressing it,
It is possible to check the fuel level by attaching a length of clear plastic tubing to the drain nipple , lifting it up the side of the carby, and cracking the drain screw.
The fuel should show in the pipe to the level of the carb body above the float bowl gasket.
Idle adjusting.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor to responds.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
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